Fuel Injector removal guide
#1
Thread Starter
Fuel Injector removal guide
Hi guys
In an attempt to cure my misfire problem which has been on-going for the best of three years now, I was looking at getting my fuel injectors professionally cleaned. I have little experience, but do like to try and understand/get involved when I can.
I've found a "postal" service in hull which can do them at a pretty good price:
http://www.injectorc....co.uk/post.htm
Has anyone had dealings with this company before, or could recommend any companies?
Assuming these are good, my next big questions are:
1) What type of injectors do we have? I assume we have the "top feed/rail mounted ones" - but would need to be sure.
2) Does anyone have a guide as to how to remove the injectors? is it difficult and are any special tools needed? Do I need any replacement parts?
Any info would be appreciated. Unfortunately I've been unsuccessful at finding exactly "how" to remove them.
J
NB: just an FYI for newer members who may not know the history of my misfires - the CEL/misfires only happen when the weather is below 5c for an extended time - 1-2 weeks. The snow last week caused it to come back. Temperatures above this do not cause the misfires so its been a total PITA to try and track down.
In an attempt to cure my misfire problem which has been on-going for the best of three years now, I was looking at getting my fuel injectors professionally cleaned. I have little experience, but do like to try and understand/get involved when I can.
I've found a "postal" service in hull which can do them at a pretty good price:
http://www.injectorc....co.uk/post.htm
Has anyone had dealings with this company before, or could recommend any companies?
Assuming these are good, my next big questions are:
1) What type of injectors do we have? I assume we have the "top feed/rail mounted ones" - but would need to be sure.
2) Does anyone have a guide as to how to remove the injectors? is it difficult and are any special tools needed? Do I need any replacement parts?
Any info would be appreciated. Unfortunately I've been unsuccessful at finding exactly "how" to remove them.
J
NB: just an FYI for newer members who may not know the history of my misfires - the CEL/misfires only happen when the weather is below 5c for an extended time - 1-2 weeks. The snow last week caused it to come back. Temperatures above this do not cause the misfires so its been a total PITA to try and track down.
#2
Member
Yep top feed rail mount.
To remove, i'd release pressure from the fuel tank, and if possible pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the eninge a few times. This gets rid of residual pressure in the rail.
Then it's pretty simple, in removing the plastic injector cover, and nuts on the fuel rail, and pull it off. Sometimes the injectors come off with the rail, sometimes they stick in the manifold, or a bit of both!
Be careful of dropping anything down the inlet manifold area (including an injector) as you will never see it again! I've dropped two of the long bolts from the rail before and it drives me bloody mad! I'd stuff some rags down there anyway to catch the fuel which will come out when you pull the rail off.
Be careful to seat the injectors back again in the rubber cushions when you put it all back together.
Test carefully for leaks by watching around the rail area when starting the car and idling. You really don't want a fuel leak there.
If your issue is temp related, i'd be looking at a sensor, but if your car has a few miles an injector clean is good practice.
To remove, i'd release pressure from the fuel tank, and if possible pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the eninge a few times. This gets rid of residual pressure in the rail.
Then it's pretty simple, in removing the plastic injector cover, and nuts on the fuel rail, and pull it off. Sometimes the injectors come off with the rail, sometimes they stick in the manifold, or a bit of both!
Be careful of dropping anything down the inlet manifold area (including an injector) as you will never see it again! I've dropped two of the long bolts from the rail before and it drives me bloody mad! I'd stuff some rags down there anyway to catch the fuel which will come out when you pull the rail off.
Be careful to seat the injectors back again in the rubber cushions when you put it all back together.
Test carefully for leaks by watching around the rail area when starting the car and idling. You really don't want a fuel leak there.
If your issue is temp related, i'd be looking at a sensor, but if your car has a few miles an injector clean is good practice.
#3
Registered User
Removing the injectors is easy - just pull them out!! Seriously, unbolt the fuel rail from all fixings and you can simply pull it off the injectors. You'll think that i'm lying, but you will simply pull the rail off
Yes they are the top feed rail type
Yes they are the top feed rail type
#4
I used those people, and the service was excellent. Not sure it really made any difference though.
You'll need a 10mm socket; it's about a dozen 10mm nuts/bolts, and an open spanner for the fuel regulator (I used an adjustable). The manual tells you to open the fuel filler cap to release pressure, and of course disconnect the battery. A roll of paper towels is a good idea because you will get petrol everywhere, and you should wrap the fuel line in one.
My tip would be to leave all the electrical connectors in place as you pull off the fuel rail. That way you don't drop them through the inlet manifold and spend the next hour and a half removing bits so you can reach in and get them back.
You'll need a 10mm socket; it's about a dozen 10mm nuts/bolts, and an open spanner for the fuel regulator (I used an adjustable). The manual tells you to open the fuel filler cap to release pressure, and of course disconnect the battery. A roll of paper towels is a good idea because you will get petrol everywhere, and you should wrap the fuel line in one.
My tip would be to leave all the electrical connectors in place as you pull off the fuel rail. That way you don't drop them through the inlet manifold and spend the next hour and a half removing bits so you can reach in and get them back.
#5
Thread Starter
Awesome! Thanks for the replies guys Will try and take a look this weekend if the weather holds out.
Car has 117.5k on the clock now, (with original clutch!) so its in need of a little TLC.
Sandpapered the TCT the other month, changed clutch fluid and cleaned the IAC. Car is now feeling/sounding strong as it did when I brought it, so hopefully the injector clean will finish off the job.
@MB: Any ideas what sensors could cause it? Cat was changed last year to berk, so assume that comes with its own o2? pretty much where my knowledge stops.
@Dembo: interesting - so no difference at all? what mileage was yours on when you got them done?
Car has 117.5k on the clock now, (with original clutch!) so its in need of a little TLC.
Sandpapered the TCT the other month, changed clutch fluid and cleaned the IAC. Car is now feeling/sounding strong as it did when I brought it, so hopefully the injector clean will finish off the job.
@MB: Any ideas what sensors could cause it? Cat was changed last year to berk, so assume that comes with its own o2? pretty much where my knowledge stops.
@Dembo: interesting - so no difference at all? what mileage was yours on when you got them done?
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#8
Those injector cleaner people will give you new seals.
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didier55 (10-08-2018)
#9
If so, what size spanner fits it? (bigger size than any I own and adjustable is to thick to get proper purchase)