AE_Racer

I did some research to find i'm not the only one to experience the intake cam losing oil. However I couldn't find any solutions or answers. I didn't catch mine before it did this:



Cracked cam caps, quite obviously the cam and journals are all screwed.

Now before its said, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, no super odd noises or anything that would make me inspect. I drive the car 160 miles roundtrip to work everyday so I know it pretty well. Friday morning on the way to work, it shut off when I came to a stop. Started right back up, no big deal. A few miles down the road it shut off indefinitely. After finding the above, the cam sprocket was also loose which I assume is what caused it to shut off.

Now, my question... In my shoes, what would you guys do? It seems that the lower journals are seperate from the head, i.e. they can be replaced, is that true? (Haven't looked hard enough yet) Essentially I could replace the cam, and all the caps/lower journals, re time it (hoping no valves hit the pistons), and be good to go. However I still don't know what caused this issue so it could happen again.


The good stuff, before questions are asked:

I do not know the actual engine mileage. Car has 195k, but I was told the engine was replaced. No proof/receipts were given so i'm going to guess 195k is actual mileage.

I keep up on my oil changes, I use Wix filters with valvoline 10w30 dino oil.

No changes had been made to the engine reccently.

Thanks!

Billman250

Just had this with a customer...the front cam wheel bolt came loose. Immediate loss of oil pressure to the top end.

Loose cam sprocket caused the whole thing.

Billman250

Look inside the valve cover...you see a circular mark from the cam wheel hitting the valve cover?

As long as the cam wheel bolt is tightened properly, this wont happen again. I promise

AE_Racer

So the cam sprocket caused the whole thing? Crazy! lol

Thank you. What is your suggestion for the repair, good sir? Will it require a whole new head or can the lower journals be replaced?

Slows2k

Seen this with oil filter relocators installed incorrectly.

Utah S2K

Seen this once. I frequentlywonder if some of the lubrication issues are related to running non-spec oil......which you are. I run 10-30 and have periodically worried about it. Are you in the cold or are you in a warmer state? Currently collecting data as most run 10-30 but Manual says 5-30. Oil orifices on the F-20 C are comparatively small.

Utah

AE_Racer

I'm in north Florida. Most of the year is 80-100*F.

And no oil filter relocator here, for the record.

Utah S2K

Lucky bastard

AE_Racer

I dont know why people think so. Those kind of temps plus crazy humidity to go with them is no fun

SpitfireS

As this happened at operating temperature the difference between 5W-30 and 10W-30 is nothing.
IOW: oil was not the cause of this.

The varnish is a typical sign of years of dino use.
Varnish settles on high temp & low oil pressure & flow area's, not in oil passages.

We should not use the OP's misfortune to promote 0W or 5W oils.
This has nothing to do with oil.

OP: do you remember seeing the oil pressure warning light at all?
The loss of oil pressure was probably low enough to not trip this light but high enough to cause this damage.
The darker color of the varnish could also mean it happened instantly instead of a slow leak over a longer time.
Even in a couple of miles are a LOT of revs, and revs without oil means lots of heat.