cajunap1

I have a stripped sparkplug port/sleeve/whatever-U-call-it. I currently know of 3 possible options/fixes:

1) Heliarc - weld aluminum back into port and re-tap
2) Sleeve - Drill and press a sleeve
3) Replace head

Looking for advice in the form of intelligent/educated/experienced opinions as to the best option and/or pros/cons of each options.

Notes: Cylider impacted is second from front of engine (not sure of # in ignition cycle). The spark plug will screw into cylinder head but will not tighten. As a result I am getting "blow-by" which is slowing destroying the sparkplug boot. Coil assembly appears to be OK.

Qlake

Helicoil or an insert will fix it unless you keep driving and burn around the spark plug. Most shops can make the repair for under $100.00.

Billman250

None of the above.

Get a spark plug thread chaser, and re-thread it. cross threads are not stripped threds, meaning missing metal.

A thread chaser IS NOT A TAP. it is made to re-distrubute botched threads, not cut new ones.

If the car were here id do it in ten minutes. Its not hard. Get the proper tool, and be straight with it.

Billman250

If it is stripped out, Heli-Coil is the only way to fly.

MP2k

A properly applied Heli-Coil is ok but I really like a Time-Sert. I've got a metric kit from them and it is hands down the best thread repair kit I've ever used (and easier to apply). Check them out. http://www.timesert.com/index.html

chris_barry

Second the timeserts as they are a sleeve rather than a coil insert.

I've posted earlier that you can fill the cylinder with shaving cream, install the timesert then turn the engine over and the shaving cream pushes out any swarf/chips that may have dropped out while tapping the threads for the timesert.

cajunap1

Sa-weet. Music to my ears and good news for the wallet. Just need to find someone I can trust to do it right. Thanks

cajunap1

Thanks. Understand the difference between cross threadding and stripped. It is stripped because the spark plug will screw in but will not tighten to a full stop -ie. stops after moderate pressure. It keeps rotating past where I think it should top. I did not want to keep rotating and making it worse. I will accept some pressure but it eventually backs out due to pressure from the cylinder. I cannot tell if it is rotating out or simply being blown out of the threads.

cajunap1

This looks like a really viable solution. However, I need to determine the proper kit which is determine by the sparkplug size and threading. Do you know what that should be? I can check when I get home but was wondering if you know the kit # from Timesert or maybe the threading specs so I can ID the proper kit to purchase.

Thanks again.

cajunap1

The shaving cream, in theory, seems like a very ingenious approach. However, I am a little wary of this. Have you done this before? Seems a little risky to me - meaning will the shaving cream catch all the filings and will they be completely pushed out on the upstroke? I already have concerns about that cylider because when I first noticed the problem (car was missing at idle) the plug was completely out of the cylider AND the tip of the sparkplug (side electrode) was missing so I know the cylinder ate at least one piece of metal.

Thanks.