tie rod end boot replacement DIY
09-10-2011, 11:33 PM
#1
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tie rod end boot replacement DIY
so, both of my tie rod end boots got torn and wanted to see if there was a DIY on our forum and nothing came up after searching.
i came across mike garrison's DIY @ eskimo.com which is a nice guide, but i wanted to do a better one.
this guide is my small contribution towards everyone on this forum.
lets get started.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
tools required.
that tube on the right side is my vacuum cleaner extension which we will be using to install the new boot onto the tie rod.
next to the hammer is the ball joint remover tool. click here to order from sears if you need it
costal all-purpose grease is next to the scissor
the brick is used to support the tie rod as you install the new boot. i prefer a block of wood but that brick was all i had in my garage. brick is not necessary.
torque wrench. i know its not shown in the picture thats b/c i dont have one. i just used the adjustable wrench to torque it by feel.
you can substitute a flat-head screwdriver for that scissor.
dont mind that small wrench next to the adjustable.
everything else is pretty much self explanatory.
where it came from
goto vatozone to pick it up
--------------------------------------------------------------------
demonstration will be done on the right side
loosen wheel lug nuts.
jack her up.
remove wheel.
bring your steering wheel all the way to the Right and lock it. in the next picture i have the steering wheel to the Left, dont mind it.
*quick inspection*
wheel off.
wipe off your upper ball joint boot and inspect. silicone spray it.
same thing with the bottom ball joint boot.
check your stabilizer bar boots
upper arm bushings
upper arm bushings
lower arm bushings. the other one is to the left of this pic.
rubber spring seat
caliper pin boot (upper)
caliper pin boot (lower)
check your break pad. (i know you cant see the pad in this pic. my bad for that).
*end of inspection*
ok, time to get to the bread n' butter
the tie rod end boot is to the right
zoom
use a plier to straighten the cotter pin legs
use a hammer to tap it out lightly
wd40 on the thread and bolt
i didnt have the right size wrench for the nut so i used an adjustable wrench. i think its a 19mm
IMPORTANT: take off the nut from the ball pin and work it back in and off again. make sure the nut screws in and out without drag. now leave the nut on the last 3-4 threads. if you dont follow this important step, the ball pin inside the tie rod will most likely spin along with the nut while you attempt to loosen AFTER freeing the tie rod end from the knuckle using the ball joint remover.
put on the ball joint remover tool.
in this picture i didnt have it all the way in. i wanted to show how it was suppose to sit around the boot.
detailed view of the tool around the boot
crank that sucker slowly
i came across mike garrison's DIY @ eskimo.com which is a nice guide, but i wanted to do a better one.
this guide is my small contribution towards everyone on this forum.
lets get started.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
tools required.
that tube on the right side is my vacuum cleaner extension which we will be using to install the new boot onto the tie rod.
next to the hammer is the ball joint remover tool. click here to order from sears if you need it
costal all-purpose grease is next to the scissor
the brick is used to support the tie rod as you install the new boot. i prefer a block of wood but that brick was all i had in my garage. brick is not necessary.
torque wrench. i know its not shown in the picture thats b/c i dont have one. i just used the adjustable wrench to torque it by feel.
you can substitute a flat-head screwdriver for that scissor.
dont mind that small wrench next to the adjustable.
everything else is pretty much self explanatory.
where it came from
goto vatozone to pick it up
--------------------------------------------------------------------
demonstration will be done on the right side
loosen wheel lug nuts.
jack her up.
remove wheel.
bring your steering wheel all the way to the Right and lock it. in the next picture i have the steering wheel to the Left, dont mind it.
*quick inspection*
wheel off.
wipe off your upper ball joint boot and inspect. silicone spray it.
same thing with the bottom ball joint boot.
check your stabilizer bar boots
upper arm bushings
upper arm bushings
lower arm bushings. the other one is to the left of this pic.
rubber spring seat
caliper pin boot (upper)
caliper pin boot (lower)
check your break pad. (i know you cant see the pad in this pic. my bad for that).
*end of inspection*
ok, time to get to the bread n' butter
the tie rod end boot is to the right
zoom
use a plier to straighten the cotter pin legs
use a hammer to tap it out lightly
wd40 on the thread and bolt
i didnt have the right size wrench for the nut so i used an adjustable wrench. i think its a 19mm
IMPORTANT: take off the nut from the ball pin and work it back in and off again. make sure the nut screws in and out without drag. now leave the nut on the last 3-4 threads. if you dont follow this important step, the ball pin inside the tie rod will most likely spin along with the nut while you attempt to loosen AFTER freeing the tie rod end from the knuckle using the ball joint remover.
put on the ball joint remover tool.
in this picture i didnt have it all the way in. i wanted to show how it was suppose to sit around the boot.
detailed view of the tool around the boot
crank that sucker slowly
09-11-2011, 09:24 AM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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and POP!!
removed nut
and disconnect
i used a scissor to pry around the base of the boot to get the boot off.
i could've used a flat-head screwdriver but i didnt want to go about and search for that bloody thing.
take it off
clean it up the best you can
pack her up with new grease
thats how the grease is suppose to sit according to the manual pg 17-58.
pack the lower area of the ball pin.
keep grease off the tapered sections (middle section of the ball pin and boot installation section on the tie rod).
new boot
silicone spray it
pack the upper interior of the boot.
keep grease off the boot installation section (lower part).
and grease the lip area as such
put it on and support it.
slide on the vacuum cleaner extension and start tapping it LIGHTLY.
stop in between to make sure your not messing up the outer boot installation section.
here is the new boot installed correctly
zoom.
make sure the boot is seated properly. check all the way around the base.
slide her back on the knuckle and put the nut back on.
push up from under the rod as you're finger tightening.
tighten to 40 lbf-ft with torque wrench. i just did it by feel since i dont have a torque wrench.
put the cotter pin back on and bend them as shown.
if you noticed how the cotter pin was on before i started, it was all kinds of jacked up.
this is how you properly bend the cotter pin.
there she is.
spray some more silicone on there again.
straighten the steering wheel and put the wheel back on.
give youself a pat on the back. job well done troop.
---------------------------------------------------------------
thank you all for everything. drive safe and enjoy your new boots with fresh grease.
removed nut
and disconnect
i used a scissor to pry around the base of the boot to get the boot off.
i could've used a flat-head screwdriver but i didnt want to go about and search for that bloody thing.
take it off
clean it up the best you can
pack her up with new grease
thats how the grease is suppose to sit according to the manual pg 17-58.
pack the lower area of the ball pin.
keep grease off the tapered sections (middle section of the ball pin and boot installation section on the tie rod).
new boot
silicone spray it
pack the upper interior of the boot.
keep grease off the boot installation section (lower part).
and grease the lip area as such
put it on and support it.
slide on the vacuum cleaner extension and start tapping it LIGHTLY.
stop in between to make sure your not messing up the outer boot installation section.
here is the new boot installed correctly
zoom.
make sure the boot is seated properly. check all the way around the base.
slide her back on the knuckle and put the nut back on.
push up from under the rod as you're finger tightening.
tighten to 40 lbf-ft with torque wrench. i just did it by feel since i dont have a torque wrench.
put the cotter pin back on and bend them as shown.
if you noticed how the cotter pin was on before i started, it was all kinds of jacked up.
this is how you properly bend the cotter pin.
there she is.
spray some more silicone on there again.
straighten the steering wheel and put the wheel back on.
give youself a pat on the back. job well done troop.
---------------------------------------------------------------
thank you all for everything. drive safe and enjoy your new boots with fresh grease.
