FIPK w/ AUT Plate vs Stock Set-up with K&N filter
10-24-2010, 09:57 PM
#1
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FIPK w/ AUT Plate vs Stock Set-up with K&N filter
Experiment One
Purpose: To see whether engine temps are higher with a K&N FIPK, AUT Cooling plate and no radiator shroud vs Stock Setup with K&N Drop-in filter.
Method: Both of us flash to the Tune setting (didn’t quite work out, read “test” for more info) and go for a drive & check temps using our datalogs. I have a 2007 & my friend has a 2008 CR.
Test: We both drove from our home to a neutral location. We both reflashed and went for a drive. Unfortunately, my friend realized afterwards that he did not have the Tuned setting on his Flashpro, instead he had reflashed to the Mugen program; so the data is not as accurate as we would’ve liked it to be. Unfortunately we removed his radiator shroud in anticipation of him installing his new intake we cannot re-test again with the aforementioned set-ups (refer to Experiment Two for more info though). So take the following data for what it is.
We both drove our cars for about the same period of time and the cars were also parked for the same length of time as well. The temperature according to our dash guage was 53F.
.................................................. ..............alSpeed2k Friend
.................................................. ...............IAT ECT IAT ECT
Idle, approx 30 seconds after start-up......105.8 185 102.2 185
At light, short drive, no vtec......................80.6 179.6 89.6 179.6
Idle after 30 seconds................................84.2 183.2 96.8 183.2
Idle after 1 minute....................................89.6 185 98.6 183.2
After 30 seconds of spirited driving.............80.6 181.4 91.4 181.4
After 1 Minute of spirited driving.................80.6 181.4 93.2 181.4
Start idle after mixed driving......................71.6 181.4 84.2 181.4
Idle after 1 minute...................................80.6 186.8 91.4 185
Idle after 1 min 26 sec (before driving off)....86 186.8 93.2 186.8
Start idle@dest’n 1 after very light drive......84.2 185 91.4 183.2
Idle after 1 minute...................................96.8 190.4 96.8 186.8
Idle after 1 min 30 seconds.......................100.4 197.6 98.6 188.6
Just b4 shutting down (approx 2min)...........102.2 201.2 100.4 194
Start-up car again..................................122 197.6 100.4 194
Idle after 1min 30 seconds.......................116.6 203 111.2 197.6
Idle after 3 minutes ................................122 203 114.8 190.4
After 2 min 17 second drive.......................89.6 183.2 105.8 181.4
Idle after 1 minute..................................104 195.8 111.2 190.4
Conclusion: From our very unscientific test, we see that the FIPK & AUT Combo without the radiator plate cools the car down significantly faster than the stock setup with K&N drop-in filter. That being said, the same set-up also heats up faster when the car is at idle. I think it is possible that the FIPK could experience heat bog in hotter climates. At the same time, because the car is significantly cooler with the FIPK set-up after a drive, the car would need to be idling for longer than one minute to lose any of the benefits that was gained from that set-up.
One thing I'm not sure about though is how the engine coolant temp (ECT) affects the results though. As you can see, when idling for longer periods of time my ECT is quite a bit higher than my friends.
Anyhow, stay tuned for the numbers from experiment 2.
Purpose: To see whether engine temps are higher with a K&N FIPK, AUT Cooling plate and no radiator shroud vs Stock Setup with K&N Drop-in filter.
Method: Both of us flash to the Tune setting (didn’t quite work out, read “test” for more info) and go for a drive & check temps using our datalogs. I have a 2007 & my friend has a 2008 CR.
Test: We both drove from our home to a neutral location. We both reflashed and went for a drive. Unfortunately, my friend realized afterwards that he did not have the Tuned setting on his Flashpro, instead he had reflashed to the Mugen program; so the data is not as accurate as we would’ve liked it to be. Unfortunately we removed his radiator shroud in anticipation of him installing his new intake we cannot re-test again with the aforementioned set-ups (refer to Experiment Two for more info though). So take the following data for what it is.
We both drove our cars for about the same period of time and the cars were also parked for the same length of time as well. The temperature according to our dash guage was 53F.
.................................................. ..............alSpeed2k Friend
.................................................. ...............IAT ECT IAT ECT
Idle, approx 30 seconds after start-up......105.8 185 102.2 185
At light, short drive, no vtec......................80.6 179.6 89.6 179.6
Idle after 30 seconds................................84.2 183.2 96.8 183.2
Idle after 1 minute....................................89.6 185 98.6 183.2
After 30 seconds of spirited driving.............80.6 181.4 91.4 181.4
After 1 Minute of spirited driving.................80.6 181.4 93.2 181.4
Start idle after mixed driving......................71.6 181.4 84.2 181.4
Idle after 1 minute...................................80.6 186.8 91.4 185
Idle after 1 min 26 sec (before driving off)....86 186.8 93.2 186.8
Start idle@dest’n 1 after very light drive......84.2 185 91.4 183.2
Idle after 1 minute...................................96.8 190.4 96.8 186.8
Idle after 1 min 30 seconds.......................100.4 197.6 98.6 188.6
Just b4 shutting down (approx 2min)...........102.2 201.2 100.4 194
Start-up car again..................................122 197.6 100.4 194
Idle after 1min 30 seconds.......................116.6 203 111.2 197.6
Idle after 3 minutes ................................122 203 114.8 190.4
After 2 min 17 second drive.......................89.6 183.2 105.8 181.4
Idle after 1 minute..................................104 195.8 111.2 190.4
Conclusion: From our very unscientific test, we see that the FIPK & AUT Combo without the radiator plate cools the car down significantly faster than the stock setup with K&N drop-in filter. That being said, the same set-up also heats up faster when the car is at idle. I think it is possible that the FIPK could experience heat bog in hotter climates. At the same time, because the car is significantly cooler with the FIPK set-up after a drive, the car would need to be idling for longer than one minute to lose any of the benefits that was gained from that set-up.
One thing I'm not sure about though is how the engine coolant temp (ECT) affects the results though. As you can see, when idling for longer periods of time my ECT is quite a bit higher than my friends.
Anyhow, stay tuned for the numbers from experiment 2.
10-24-2010, 09:58 PM
#2
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Experiment Two
Purpose: To see whether the removal of the stock radiator plate (shroud) will negatively affect engine temperatures.
Method: Remove stock rad plate and go for a drive while datalogging.
.................................................. ...............alSpeed2k Friend
.................................................. ...............IAT ECT IAT ECT
At start-up (his hood open much longer) ..........95 118.4 71.6 107.6
After 5 min, low speed drive.......................... 69.8 181.4 68 177.8
After another 8min mixed/spirited driving ..........71.6 185 71.6 181.4
Idle after 1 minute ...................................82.4 186.8 77 185
Idle after 2 minute ...................................89.6 194 82.4 186.8
After another low speed short drive .............75.2 181.4 80.6 183.2
Both reflashed to Toda & started cars ..........98.6 186.8 95 183.2
Idle after 1min30sec ..................................71.6 186.8 84.2 185
At light, short drive, no vtec ........................69.8 181.4 77 183.2
Idle after 1 minute ......................................71.6 185 82.4 185
After 30 seconds of spirited driving .................71.6 183.2 73.4 183.2
After another 30 seconds mixed driving ..............68 181.4 73.4 181.4
After lite drive ..........................................69.8 181.4 78.8 183.2
Idle 30 seconds........................................ 73.4 185 82.4 185
Purpose: To see whether the removal of the stock radiator plate (shroud) will negatively affect engine temperatures.
Method: Remove stock rad plate and go for a drive while datalogging.
.................................................. ...............alSpeed2k Friend
.................................................. ...............IAT ECT IAT ECT
At start-up (his hood open much longer) ..........95 118.4 71.6 107.6
After 5 min, low speed drive.......................... 69.8 181.4 68 177.8
After another 8min mixed/spirited driving ..........71.6 185 71.6 181.4
Idle after 1 minute ...................................82.4 186.8 77 185
Idle after 2 minute ...................................89.6 194 82.4 186.8
After another low speed short drive .............75.2 181.4 80.6 183.2
Both reflashed to Toda & started cars ..........98.6 186.8 95 183.2
Idle after 1min30sec ..................................71.6 186.8 84.2 185
At light, short drive, no vtec ........................69.8 181.4 77 183.2
Idle after 1 minute ......................................71.6 185 82.4 185
After 30 seconds of spirited driving .................71.6 183.2 73.4 183.2
After another 30 seconds mixed driving ..............68 181.4 73.4 181.4
After lite drive ..........................................69.8 181.4 78.8 183.2
Idle 30 seconds........................................ 73.4 185 82.4 185
10-24-2010, 09:59 PM
#3
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marker for temp tests after my friend installs his new intake!
10-25-2010, 07:22 AM
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Interesting. I'm running a K&N and the carbon cooling plate and I do experience some bog after sitting at lights sometimes being in FL.
Still have everything else stock as far as the radiator plate/shroud
Still have everything else stock as far as the radiator plate/shroud
10-25-2010, 08:37 AM
#6
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^The K&N box does leave gaps along the side, near the wheel arch I think it would help a little if one were to find away to enclose that section. In addition, a few years ago I recall my cousin taking a fan from an old computer and hooking it up in his engine bay to blow air onto his intake filter, a set-up like this might help us too!
10-25-2010, 10:08 AM
#7
The coolant temps in these tests are really irrellivant, since they are dictated by the thermostats and fan on/off points. To really see how the coolant temp would be impacted, you would have to really put a lot of load on the engines for an extended period of time, like at a road course, and get ECT's well above 200F.
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10-25-2010, 03:02 PM
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Hi Greg, Thanks, good to know!
10-25-2010, 03:23 PM
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hmmm....would be very interesting to run these tests against a cut hood as well, in comparison to the other 2 set ups. as far as sitting temp and driving. very interesting indeed though!
my reason for the hood mod suggestion was that my future set up will either be the hood mod with stock air box, k&n drop in, of if not hood mod, the FIPK and cooling plate as described...looking forward to more info!
my reason for the hood mod suggestion was that my future set up will either be the hood mod with stock air box, k&n drop in, of if not hood mod, the FIPK and cooling plate as described...looking forward to more info!
10-25-2010, 05:57 PM
#10
As I mentioned earlier, coolant temps are not relevant information unless you load the engine up BIG TIME so that the temps go well above the full open position of the thermostat. However, it occurred to me later that doing that wouldn't really be that relevant either, unless you were in a controlled environment doing each test the same exact way. This would require that you do it on a track with the same car and same driver on the same day.
What I think would be easier than that would be to simply remove the thermostat for the test. It would be a PITA, but the results would be much more relevant. You would just need to get on the highway, and cruise at a constant speed for a few miles to see where the coolant temp settles. It would settle WAY below a point that you would want long term (since cold coolant increases wear), but it would be safe enough for a simple test of cooling plates or hood vents.
What I think would be easier than that would be to simply remove the thermostat for the test. It would be a PITA, but the results would be much more relevant. You would just need to get on the highway, and cruise at a constant speed for a few miles to see where the coolant temp settles. It would settle WAY below a point that you would want long term (since cold coolant increases wear), but it would be safe enough for a simple test of cooling plates or hood vents.