hardtop fitment
12-23-2008, 10:20 AM
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hardtop fitment
Hi guys.
Done the search but having contradictive answer so I guess I'll just ask the clever people out there.
Anyway, I am about to pick up a 2nd hand hardtop for my MY00. I am planning to pick it up with the S as I was under the impression that I can still lock the front catches / strikers and tie down the rear for a short journey. After seeing some posts here I am now confused. Some said that I will need a newer strikers but some said all hardtop fits all year but just need the rear fitting kit? Who is correct?
Thanks & Regards
Terry
Done the search but having contradictive answer so I guess I'll just ask the clever people out there.
Anyway, I am about to pick up a 2nd hand hardtop for my MY00. I am planning to pick it up with the S as I was under the impression that I can still lock the front catches / strikers and tie down the rear for a short journey. After seeing some posts here I am now confused. Some said that I will need a newer strikers but some said all hardtop fits all year but just need the rear fitting kit? Who is correct?
Thanks & Regards
Terry
12-23-2008, 12:57 PM
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I've just done this myself, so there's a recent post about how to carry it home without the fitting kit parts fitted. Get some 80cm strengthened bungie cords from your local Halfords - you can use these to clip on to the rear clips of the hardtop, under the back of the seat rail, and back to the hardtop. It's fairly secure but I wouldn't drive too fast on your way home.
As for the rest...
The standard strikers weren't designed for the hardtop and will wear quicker than the toughened strikers. I think you can get away with it, but you may find you get excessive noise with the softtop up when they do wear down.
The main parts of the fitting kit are the two side catchers that allow you to slot the hardtop in. You can reuse the existing bolts, but get new ones if you can.
If you want to wire up the demister then you'll need all the other parts such as the loom, demister switch, relay, etc etc. The loom varies depending on your car, but if you buy from hardtop guy he should know what you need. I haven't fitted the demister switch yet as I'm a bit baffled by what to do, but I may just forget about it for now
As for the rest...
The standard strikers weren't designed for the hardtop and will wear quicker than the toughened strikers. I think you can get away with it, but you may find you get excessive noise with the softtop up when they do wear down.
The main parts of the fitting kit are the two side catchers that allow you to slot the hardtop in. You can reuse the existing bolts, but get new ones if you can.
If you want to wire up the demister then you'll need all the other parts such as the loom, demister switch, relay, etc etc. The loom varies depending on your car, but if you buy from hardtop guy he should know what you need. I haven't fitted the demister switch yet as I'm a bit baffled by what to do, but I may just forget about it for now
12-23-2008, 02:21 PM
#4
Okay, I also collected a HT last week.
Bungy cords in pairs are really cheap in B&Q by the way.
Im using ratchet straps - far safer.
Bungee good for triple digits, it cant move with the fronts locked.
What everyone fails to mention is that where the brushes are located behind the doors is where the long locking spikes on the h/t sit down (or where the new catchers will be installed).
The NON GT plastic moldings differ and putting a h/t on a non GT car will break the plastic mouldings.
Now I know its no big deal as you're going to swap them when you fit the 'hardtopguy' kit, but it makes it hard to push the rear of the hardtop down to secure it and get it home.
If you lean on it hard you can bust the plastic fillets out of the way as I did.
Best plan is to cut away the 4"x1" horizontal fillet of plastic under the brushes so the spikes go down easily before you travel.
Some owners do this anyhow to avoid paying for the different brush mouldings too.
HTH.
Steve.
PS, done 250miles like this
Bungy cords in pairs are really cheap in B&Q by the way.
Im using ratchet straps - far safer.
Bungee good for triple digits, it cant move with the fronts locked.
What everyone fails to mention is that where the brushes are located behind the doors is where the long locking spikes on the h/t sit down (or where the new catchers will be installed).
The NON GT plastic moldings differ and putting a h/t on a non GT car will break the plastic mouldings.
Now I know its no big deal as you're going to swap them when you fit the 'hardtopguy' kit, but it makes it hard to push the rear of the hardtop down to secure it and get it home.
If you lean on it hard you can bust the plastic fillets out of the way as I did.
Best plan is to cut away the 4"x1" horizontal fillet of plastic under the brushes so the spikes go down easily before you travel.
Some owners do this anyhow to avoid paying for the different brush mouldings too.
HTH.
Steve.
PS, done 250miles like this
12-24-2008, 02:03 AM
#6
Originally Posted by pfeds' date='Dec 23 2008, 10:57 PM
The standard strikers weren't designed for the hardtop and will wear quicker than the toughened strikers. I think you can get away with it, but you may find you get excessive noise with the softtop up when they do wear down.
See the FAQ
12-24-2008, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey k' date='Dec 24 2008, 03:03 AM
Only true on Mk1 UK cars, ALL JDM cars had the GT striker plates.
See the FAQ
See the FAQ
m1bjr is right about the non-hardtop brushes. You just need to be careful when resting the hardtop and securing it. Mine didn't quite seal at the front, but it was enough to get home. I didn't really have too much trouble really, so you should be fine
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