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Vortech Super Charger Glitch

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Old 07-29-2012 | 09:28 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by watch0bak
Originally Posted by Picturepro' timestamp='1343587219' post='21897391
6 year old thread.....
Shows hes actually using search instead of creating bs new threads. Props to the guy that did his search!

- Sung

Can I get an AMEN !?

Lol yess, thank you, I HATE creating threads when there's plenty o good ones around.plus.tnis way evrone that's still subscribed here..can join in on the convo,and they already know what needs to be said and are informed on the subject at hand


Anyways thanks for the black box info above !

I ended up cpushing in everything under the dash as much as I could..to ensure evrthing is connected..and I smaked the pos black box a bit..and JUST HIT VTEC YO !


We will see how long this lasts,but so far its been hitting vtec all day.. O GOD HOW MUCH I MISSED IT! And this baby PULLS !


Ill keep updating.thanks again everyone so far.
Old 07-31-2012 | 03:56 PM
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well, it ran nice for a while, and then eventually it started doing it again, took it Just past 6k and it fell on its face afterwards and the code came back p0336.



Not sure what fixed it.. all i did before it worked fine for a day- was get under the dash and push every connection in ,every clip , and smacked the black box a bit.

idk..
Old 07-31-2012 | 04:13 PM
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Within 6 year some changes have happened.
AEM now AEM2
newer technologies
owners have moved on to another cars

it is nice when members finishes their post and says what problem was found or resolved the issue.
Old 07-31-2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Picturepro
Within 6 year some changes have happened.
AEM now AEM2
newer technologies
owners have moved on to another cars

it is nice when members finishes their post and says what problem was found or resolved the issue.



bdw, nice wire fox terrier you had.
Old 08-01-2012 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TudorS2k
well, it ran nice for a while, and then eventually it started doing it again, took it Just past 6k and it fell on its face afterwards and the code came back p0336.



Not sure what fixed it.. all i did before it worked fine for a day- was get under the dash and push every connection in ,every clip , and smacked the black box a bit.

idk..

By the way, not sure when the last time the oil was changed on the vortech, yet I couldn't find much info on how to. And how often.

Also the v3 were self lubricating? I have the v2 so I don't think its the same...
Old 08-01-2012 | 05:57 PM
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It was changed the last time you changed your motor oil since you say you have a V2. My money is on the issue still being in your wiring. Only makes sense since it started working after you shuffled around under there...
Old 08-05-2012 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jdms2000f20c
I had the exact same problem drove it parked it drove it and cel came on. Ran the code had something to do with Tdc did the map whack and it went away for a bit. Drive it some more and it came back. It was the wiring loose. I took out the black box and went back and soldered ever wire with heat shrink wrap and it solved the problem haven't had a problem since. So yeah check your wiring.

Originally Posted by jdms2000f20c
If you solder the wires exactly as to how it states below the cel should not come up and your car won't go into limp mode. When I first installed the black box and map controller I used crimp connectors and the yellow and black wire got loose. I then redid all the connections using a solder and the problem went away as soon as I finished.

I got the information below right out of the install manual you can find it on google or straight from Vortech. Hope this helps.

Tap the red wires from the timing controller and the MAP controller into the yellow/black wire (1 IGP1) on the 25P connector. (See Fig. 15-f .)
Tap the black wires from the timing controller and MAP controller into the black wire (2 PG1) on the 25P connector.
Cut the green/red wire (17 MAP) on the 31P connector and install one male and one female slide connector onto each end.
Connect the blue wire from the MAP controller to the green/red wire leading to the engine com- partment.
Connect the white wire from the MAP controller to the green/red wire leading to the vehicle’s computer.
Cut the blue wire (8 CKPP) on the 31P connector and install one male and one female slide con- nector onto each end.
Connect the blue wire from the timing controller to the blue wire leading to the engine compart- ment.
NOTE: Each of the vehicles wires that are cut should have a male and female slide connector in- stalled on each end so that the timing box or the MAP controller may be unplugged at any time and the vehicle can run in a stock configuration.

Connect the blue/red wire from the timing controller to the blue wire leading to the vehicle’s computer.
Cut the green wire (20 TDC1P) on the 31P connector and install one male and one female slide connector onto each end.
Connect the green wire from the timing controller to the green wire leading to the engine compartment.
Connect the green/red wire from the timing controller to the green wire leading to the vehicle’s computer.
Cut the yellow wire (20 TDC2P) on the 31P connector and install one male and one female slide connector onto each end.
Connect the yellow wire from the timing controller to the green wire leading to the engine compartment.
Connect the yellow/green wire from the timing controller to the yellow wire leading to the vehicle’s computer.

Originally Posted by tom153
Get under the dash and look at all of your wires. On my car I had that happen when to top left wire (yellow with a black stripe I believe) loosened up in the middle ECU connector.





I checked out the connections and the wires that leave from the black box, to the ecu are connected like so:

[pics are gradually zoomed in]






From the last picture bove ^ : the yellow/black striped wire is twisted around a blue wire thats coming off a different wire bundle from the car..not sure what the blue one is for? It is just twisted together and taped up ...FAIL on whoever did that..


You guys think this should be the culprit??
Old 08-05-2012 | 08:10 PM
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UPDATE:


1) I had some time to find the VORTECH Install PDF, and follow the electrical routing guide, Everything checks out fine, all is routed as should be.
2) I got rid of the half ass connection from the yellow/black striped wire (from the first connector-gray)to the blue wire (in the other bundle) - and got a gold plated crimp in there.
3) Opened up the black box to see whats going on in there - and to my surprise, i found out that theres nothing i can do in there...its all covered in some black hot glue melted cover thing. I did NOT know this..expected a circuit board..and some wires ??

Heres the pics: [ gradually zooming in]





So i dont know how people said to check the soldering..? Are all B-Boxes like this ? Or did i get the special case>!


Anyways, the car still wont go past 6.5 K Rpm !!!!!!

Mother-@#%^$% I dont know what else to do??

------------

So far ive tried
- rechecking that the lines are all going to the right place-they are
- unplugged and replugged some of the sensors on the engine -heard someone say it could help...Nope
- tapping/hitting the black box-oh what good that did..fail
- Opening the black box..nothing to do there..its all covered in sealant/tar lol
-
Old 08-05-2012 | 08:23 PM
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People are saying to get rid of the slide connectors and solder the wires coming out of the black box to the ECU wires.
Old 08-05-2012 | 09:12 PM
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From: dfw
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solder it all and heat shrink it see how it runs then cause thats a mess


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