I'm wondering if anyone has experience this oproblem and can offer up some advise.

I recently installed a Vortex and Apex control system in my car. Here is the rest of the story.
I finally got my S-2000 all put back together and the Vortex in last week. Intially it ran great for a couple of days just around the hood on short trips. On the weekend I did about a 25 mile highway drive to some boat races and parked the car for about 2 hours. When I came back and fired it up the check engine light came on and I could not get it to run over 3000 RPM without misfiring or dropping out. I turned it on and off again a couple times but with the same problem so I limped home running just under 3 grand. When I got home I shut it down for about 15 minutes then ran it over to a local Autozone store who checked out the onboard computer to see what it said. It read out , Global OBD11, DTC (codes) P1361, Manufacturer Control. Ingnition System or Misfire, DTC Pending (codes) No faults detected.
When I left Autozone the check engine light stayed on but the car was running great again.. A while later the check engine light went out. I have done some more rushing around the hood with no problem but I am reluctant to hit the long road. Did this ever happen to you or do you have any idea what the issue could be?

 

I have never just heard of a CEL just turing off by itself, most times the problem is fixed and the computer is manually reset to clear the CEL light. Have you gone over your wiring and checked all connections, checked voltage, the problem seems electrical related. So you stated that you are running a Vafc with the Vortec piggyback. I would remove the the Vafc and run the kit in its original entirety, then troubleshoot from there. More electronic device's will make this just harder. JMO

 

Yes. first time Autozone checked the OBC they did not reset the light so i went back and asked them to reset it but when I pulled away it was still lit. I got half way home a started to go back and it went out on it's own.

 

I think u need to get your car tuned man. Some ppl say they can drive untuned i mean you can but its more reliable if u can get ur car tuned. Check sparks and get and ignition kit. after your done with it all putting it on reset your ecu then start up your car good luck

 

I believe your issue is the wiring. Recommend you re-check all of your splices and make sure you have solid connections (soldering is preferred).

 

If you are using a VAFC, yank it for now it's only making troubleshooting more difficult.

A VAFC's ability to tune a SC'd car is another argument. I wouldn't bother reinstalling.

The P1361 is for TDC sensor A intrmittent interuption. You need to make sure all of the electrical connections at the timing controller (big black box) and the Map clamp (little black box) are all good ones. poor connections at the many wires that need to be spliced into will lead to strange drivability issues, that are quite difficult to track down.

The VAFC wiring in the same place doesn't make it any easier.

BTW, It's a Vortech not Vortex

Moving to FI as well.

 

Thaks for all the feeback so far. Check out the comments from Vtech racer who I bought the unit from.
I think I know what you are talking about. Was it hot that day it gave you trouble? If so, it would happen to me too on really hot days. Even if the car was just parked too in the sun. The only explanation I had for it was the blackbox not letting you go above 3,000 RPM when the engine got really hot in order to prevent any damage to the engine. It never happened to me on a cool day, only during extreme heat. There is one thing that I would always do though that worked to bypass the rev-limiter. If you restart the car, it should reset for a few second and allow you to rev past 3k. So what I would do when this happened is restart the car, and during that window of no rev-limit, I would drive and make sure I kept the RPMS ABOVE 3k the entire time. As long as I kept it above 3k during driving, the limiter wouldn't engage. Eventually after a few minutes of driving, the engine would cool down from the coolant and the rush of air coming in through the vents. After the cool down from driving at a cruising pace, I could go below 3k without the limiter kicking in. That might explain why the car ran fine when you left Autozone. The drive there (especially considering you were below 3k the whole time) and the rest in the parking lot gave your engine sufficient cooling to operate safely past 3k. I know your worried about going on a long-trip because of this, but if this happened again, being able to get the car on the highway would actually be the best way to cool the engine down because of the higher speed and stronger rush of air. You would just have to make sure you keep it above 3k the whole time on your way to the highway. I actually did a 1,200 mile 3-day trip in the car when it was supercharged. It gave me no problems at all and I got better than stock gas mileage to boot! My car was tuned for sea level but a good portion of my driving was done at high elevations in the mountains and even then it was totally reliable. I honestly felt more comfortable driving the car on the highway than in the city. The rev-limit never happened to me on the highway, all the times it did happen, I was in the city in stop and go driving under extreme heat.

PS all it was hot that day. High 80's

 

I tracked my SC'd car in 100deg weather, with no driveability issues.

Something is wrong with the wiring or controller, most likely the wiring.

Properly functioning SC'd cars don't do that.

 

BINGO

The vast majority of problems with the supercharger end up being poor electrical connections. Solder the connections and you should see the problem go away.

 

A VAFC in the mix isn't helping things either.