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Help with engine build + sheepey turbo kit

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Old 05-17-2015, 11:48 AM
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Default Help with engine build + sheepey turbo kit

Hi guys,

I really need help with a turbo build. It's been an up hill struggle to find someone who has been there, done that and is willing to help especially in the UK, so I have taken to the forum.

I have a budget of $10-12k for parts which includes a sheepey kit with a GTX3576R running up to 600hp. I want an engine which solid but don't want to buy unnecessary/OTT parts. What I have done is put a list together from my own research.

Please could you look through and make some comments/recommendations.

Head –

OEM Valves
Supertech Steel Springs
Supertech Steel Retainers
Brian Crower Cams Stage 2
APR Head Studs
OEM head Gasket


Block [if engine lets go] –

Perhaps it would be cheaper to buy a short block with low compression pistions? https://www.inlinepro.com/s1/c-23-engine-builds.aspx
CP 10:01 87mm pistons
ACL Race bearings
Darton Dry sleeves
Brian Cower Con Rods
APR rod studs
Baffled Engine Sump


Turbo (sheepey) kit + garret –

Garret GTX3576R ball bearing turbo
Sheepey Inc - Stainless Steel Sidewinder Turbo Manifold
Sheepey Inc - 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe
Sheepey Inc - Stainless Steel dumptube
Turbosmart 45mm Wastegate
24" x 12" x 3.5" Intercooler (Garrett Core)
Aluminum Intercooler piping
Black Silicon Couplers & T-Bolt Clamps
Turbosmart Blow Off Valve
Sheepey Inc - Oil feed kit
Sheepey Inc - Oil return kit


Fuel system –

Full Blown Fuel Pumps 340's
Full Blown S2000 Fuel Surge Tank
Full Blown Fuel Rail
Full Blown Fuel Pressure Regulator
1000cc Injector Dynamics


Cooling -

Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit
Koyo Radiator
koyo fan shroud kit
King Performance Honda S2000 Oil/Water Catch can kit [KP V2 OPTION - Aluminum finish]
- Supra Twin turbo PCV Valve breather


Electronics –

Honda Flash Pro ECU
AEM AFR gauge
AEM Boost controller
PLX oil pressure and oil temp sensors and module boxes
Science of speed RHD Pillar pod / autometer pod
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
Old 05-17-2015, 03:34 PM
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Have a badass transmission and turbo setup if youd be interested
Old 05-17-2015, 05:39 PM
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The turbo kit, fuel system and electronics alone will cost $10-12k.
Old 05-17-2015, 07:38 PM
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A stock longblock with springs and retainers will do the trick for 600. My full turbo setup cost me 5k. Just look for good deals.
Old 05-18-2015, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by umair
A stock longblock with springs and retainers will do the trick for 600. My full turbo setup cost me 5k. Just look for good deals.
The question is how long for? I worry as I do trips around europe so need reliability. Do you think its worth getting titanium retainers?
Old 05-18-2015, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AFK-S2K
The turbo kit, fuel system and electronics alone will cost $10-12k.
I could extend the budget tbh. What build are you running?
Old 05-18-2015, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by guy13
Originally Posted by umair' timestamp='1431920280' post='23616055
A stock longblock with springs and retainers will do the trick for 600. My full turbo setup cost me 5k. Just look for good deals.
The question is how long for? I worry as I do trips around europe so need reliability. Do you think its worth getting titanium retainers?
At 600 whp these motors last quite a while. Real street did well over 100 track passes and a lot of street abuse before the motor went out at 700whp. 9 times out of 10 a built motor will never last as long as a factory engine.
Old 05-18-2015, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by umair
Originally Posted by guy13' timestamp='1431939407' post='23616157
[quote name='umair' timestamp='1431920280' post='23616055']
A stock longblock with springs and retainers will do the trick for 600. My full turbo setup cost me 5k. Just look for good deals.
The question is how long for? I worry as I do trips around europe so need reliability. Do you think its worth getting titanium retainers?
At 600 whp these motors last quite a while. Real street did well over 100 track passes and a lot of street abuse before the motor went out at 700whp. 9 times out of 10 a built motor will never last as long as a factory engine.
[/quote]

Thats really interesting to hear. I could just run stock until it gives in. What would be the bare minimum then in terms of parts? Wouldn't you have to lower the compression for higher boost?
Old 05-18-2015, 09:31 AM
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I would just run the stock motor if you have a good healthy stock motor. The stock motor is great at 600whp. Also your injectors are too small if you plan on running e85. The id1000s will make 600who no problem on race gas but not on e85. I would run the id 1300 of the new fic 1650cc.
Old 05-18-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by riceball777
I would just run the stock motor if you have a good healthy stock motor. The stock motor is great at 600whp. Also your injectors are too small if you plan on running e85. The id1000s will make 600who no problem on race gas but not on e85. I would run the id 1300 of the new fic 1650cc.
Thanks for the advice. I'm based in the UK and we have 99 octane available everywhere, but will go for id1300 anyway


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