speakeasy2009

Hi guys,

Ok im on my third set of rotors in 2 years and im getting pissed. I drive my car daily but very easy. its rare I brake hard and I don't track the car. No, I have NOT used OEM because no one yet has been able to explain why OEM rotors don't warp when every other brand does. So now ill go get OEM, but I want someone to tell me WHAT makes OEM rotors so indestructible? From what I understand OEM rotors are just Centric premiums.

So far ive used these brands - Eline cross drilled and slotted - lasted 4 months. C-Quence cross drilled/slotted - lasted 6 months. Centric Premium rotors ( currently on car ) about 5 months. All these brands have warped under normal braking.


Also im convinced that there is more wrong with my car because it pulls to the right when I hit the brakes. The pads are good and the calipers are good too. using ATE Blue with gravity bleed. The car does need an alignment and im doing that when I get new tires in a month or so..


If you guys have any ideas for me id appreciate it, im getting sick of warping rotors when I don't beat on the car.

SheDrivesIt

What pads do you use? OEM? I have over 90,000 miles on my original OEM rotors.

freq

Do your front pads wear evenly from left side of the car to the right side?

Trying to rule out a sticky rotor as the reason for the car pulling when braking. A sticky caliper would possible pull anytime you leave go of the steering wheel.

What pads are you using?

BlakeNFR

I believe OP is using PosiQuiet pads (ceramic). It could possibly be from washing your car right after a drive that required significant braking.

slalom44

First off , your rotors are very likely not warped. Read this to understand what's happening.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

To prevent brake chatter, make sure you bed your pads properly. Also, try not to apply pressure on one spot on overheated rotors - that IMO is what's causing the problem.

Stock rotors have enough mass that the top hat doesn't get quite as hot in extreme conditions.

Extreme Dimensions

Came here to say this. Always make sure to bed your pads, even if they are "Street" pads.

freq

Buddy9880

If it's pulling right when braking you could have a sticking caliper. I'd pull the left front off and push the piston in and see how easily it moves. Also look at the slides and make sure they're not sticking.

zeroptzero

Most rotors don't warp, they just get uneven pad deposits on them. Some ceramic pads are worse for this, your pads may be part of the problem. If you want a good set of ceramic pads try Carbotech 1521's.

Driving too lightly is also a contributor, scraping off the pad material that was previously bedded-in without adding a new consistent layer of material to replace it, causing uneven pad material deposits. Honda rotors are not centric premiums. Rotor metallurgy is really important, cheap aftermarket rotors tend to have lower carbon content.

As mentioned above don't let the rotors cool off too quickly after some hard driving - driving through puddles, car washes etc., and don't set the parking brake too hard after some hard driving. Lastly, always make sure your lugnuts are torqued by hand whenever the wheels are removed (80 ft lbs), dealers are notorious for uneven lugnut tightening using air guns.

Slows2k

Repeated brake vibration is caused by driver and pad selection. I caused a brake vibration with OEM pads at the dragon, and eliminated the vibration after swapping school bus noisy Cobalt C's and bedding them. Reinstall quiet OEM pads and no vibration.

Resurfacing does the same thing a pad swap with abrasive pads does, the Cobalts wear rotors much faster than OEM pads.