Brake pads
#1
Brake pads
Can some one really help me find a dyi brake pads change they have many different opinions about leaving the brake fluid cap open and the brake bleeder valve I just need help with pics
#2
Changing the brake pads is a very simple process as long as you pay attention. There is no need to touch the bleeder valves OR take the cap of the master cylinder off. The cap is vented so air pressure and excess fluid can escape.
Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper. They are 14mm if i remember correctly. These are also known as the slide pins. You will later need to wipe these two pins clean and apply new grease.
Next remove the two bolts holding on the bracket in which your brake pads rest. They are 18mm or 19mm bolts. DO NOT STOP HERE AND ONLY PUT NEW BRAKE PADS ON.
You will need to remove the rotor and have the surfaced machine for a new, smooth and parallel surface. This is IMPERATIVE to the life of the brake pads as well as ensuring no squeaking or vibrations.
In order to remove the rotors you will need to remove the philips head screws holding them on at the hub. These can be a bit tricky your first time but it can be done with the right tool and approach. You NEED a the correct size philips head screw driver WITH a striking cap. What this means is the metal striking cap is directly connected to the metal shaft. You will use this tool on these screws while: hitting with a hammer firmly and twisting counter clockwise the entire time.
Take the rotors to a local carquest or similar place and have them resurfaced for about 20 a piece.
Now all you need to do is compress the pistons back into the calipers. There should be no loss of fluid. The level goes back and forth.
Put the rotors and the same screws back in. Put the bracket on first. Put the brake pads on the braket. Then slide the caliper over and put the bolts in. TIGHTEN DOWN EVERY BOLT VERY TIGHT.
Once everything is tight, put on your wheels. Dont forget to pump up the brake pedal before you drive it. It seats the piston on the pads where it should be.
Hope this helps.
#6
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#8
Only exception is that if pads are swapped between track/street, there may be compatibility issues where you need to get the pad material off of the rotors. That said, CarboTech insists on this and I've never worried about it swapping between XP8s or XP10s and street pads. Never had any issues whatsoever.
#9
Originally Posted by BLAQ&GREYs2k' timestamp='1369282437' post='22561322
You will need to remove the rotor and have the surfaced machine for a new, smooth and parallel surface. This is IMPERATIVE to the life of the brake pads as well as ensuring no squeaking or vibrations.
Only exception is that if pads are swapped between track/street, there may be compatibility issues where you need to get the pad material off of the rotors. That said, CarboTech insists on this and I've never worried about it swapping between XP8s or XP10s and street pads. Never had any issues whatsoever.
#10
Registered User
It's a strong claim to say that, "Failure to resurface the rotors will cause vibrations and glazing on the rotor." That claim is more assertive than the older warning labels on tobacco products.
By the way, I've never resurfaced a rotor and have never had vibration or glazing issues. But don't take my word for it. I don't get paid to cut rotors.
By the way, I've never resurfaced a rotor and have never had vibration or glazing issues. But don't take my word for it. I don't get paid to cut rotors.