Would I need an alignment
12-18-2011 | 05:32 AM
#1
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Would I need an alignment
Specs on the wheel and tires are 17x8 45 17x9 40 and 225/45 255/40
Would I need to get an alignment after I install these on my car? Just curious because I read different things. Some say I wouldn't need an alignment and some say yes I do.
Here is the alignment print out. The only thing i am not happy is the rear camber which is 2.2, would that affect my tire wear much?
Would I need to get an alignment after I install these on my car? Just curious because I read different things. Some say I wouldn't need an alignment and some say yes I do.
Here is the alignment print out. The only thing i am not happy is the rear camber which is 2.2, would that affect my tire wear much?
12-18-2011 | 10:37 AM
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From: Miami
are the new rims different widths or offsets vs your current rims? are the tire sizes different? if any of those are yes, i would go ahead and get an alignment (unless you don't care about tire wear or how the car tracks)
12-18-2011 | 08:05 PM
#6
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Periodic alignments are good for tire wear, but the mere fact of putting new wheels/tires on does not cause your alignment to be out of wack. If you have had an alignment recently, I wouldnt bother, If it has been a while, you should get one, but it doesn't really matter if it is before or after. I swap between autox and DD tires all the time, on different offset rims, not issues.
12-18-2011 | 08:06 PM
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Periodic alignments are good for tire wear, but the mere fact of putting new wheels/tires on does not cause your alignment to be out of wack. If you have had an alignment recently, I wouldnt bother, If it has been a while, you should get one, but it doesn't really matter if it is before or after. I swap between autox and DD tires all the time, (different sizes, DD is staggered and autox not) on different offset rims, no issues.
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12-19-2011 | 02:20 AM
#8
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From: Pawtucket, RI
Short answer: changing tires or wheels/tires doesn't affect alignment or require an alignment.
Wheel/tire change (even with different tire width and/or diameter) doesn't affect the *angular* alignment measurements, which are what really matters anyway. The toe measurement in inches/mm will only *barely* be affected, but only by ~.005"/0.1mm for a change in tire diameter of 1" (big change), and again, the *angle* is what matters, not the linear measurement.
Most shops do toe in degrees these days anyway (which is more appropriate).
No one should just "get an alignment" unless they know exactly what the tradeoffs are for the different parameters and have an idea of exactly what they WANT.
Otherwise, an alignment will only consist of them looking at where you are now and comparing that to the spec, which is a very broad range of settings. On the AP1, the rear toe spec goes as high as 0.64deg total, which will give crap tire life, and crap handling characteristics: straight-line INstability over any undulations or differing left/right grip conditions. AP2 specs are more reasonable than AP1 spec (less rear toe), but still it's a bad idea to just drop the car off and get a generic "alignment".
Important thing to note is that toe is 10x more important than camber as far as tire wear and basic handling characteristics go. And that too much toe is bad for everything: handling is more twitchy and nonlinear in a straight line, more turn-in understeer, increased tire wear, reduced fuel mileage.
Camber up to 2* or even a bit more isn't that bad for tire life and gives much greater lateral grip.
Generically, I'd recommend zero front toe, front and rear camber at the maximum end of the spec, and rear toe at the absolute minimum end of the spec range (or even slightly less, as low as 0.1-0.2 degrees total).
If you want to autoX or track the car, or generally just want greater lateral grip, maximize front and rear camber (beyond spec range).
Wheel/tire change (even with different tire width and/or diameter) doesn't affect the *angular* alignment measurements, which are what really matters anyway. The toe measurement in inches/mm will only *barely* be affected, but only by ~.005"/0.1mm for a change in tire diameter of 1" (big change), and again, the *angle* is what matters, not the linear measurement.
Most shops do toe in degrees these days anyway (which is more appropriate).
No one should just "get an alignment" unless they know exactly what the tradeoffs are for the different parameters and have an idea of exactly what they WANT.
Otherwise, an alignment will only consist of them looking at where you are now and comparing that to the spec, which is a very broad range of settings. On the AP1, the rear toe spec goes as high as 0.64deg total, which will give crap tire life, and crap handling characteristics: straight-line INstability over any undulations or differing left/right grip conditions. AP2 specs are more reasonable than AP1 spec (less rear toe), but still it's a bad idea to just drop the car off and get a generic "alignment".
Important thing to note is that toe is 10x more important than camber as far as tire wear and basic handling characteristics go. And that too much toe is bad for everything: handling is more twitchy and nonlinear in a straight line, more turn-in understeer, increased tire wear, reduced fuel mileage.
Camber up to 2* or even a bit more isn't that bad for tire life and gives much greater lateral grip.
Generically, I'd recommend zero front toe, front and rear camber at the maximum end of the spec, and rear toe at the absolute minimum end of the spec range (or even slightly less, as low as 0.1-0.2 degrees total).
If you want to autoX or track the car, or generally just want greater lateral grip, maximize front and rear camber (beyond spec range).
12-19-2011 | 05:52 AM
#9
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From: Raleigh
Per tire-rack:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4
Incorrect alignment settings will usually result in more rapid tire wear. Therefore, alignment should be checked whenever new tires or suspension components are installed, and any time unusual tire wear patterns appear. Alignment should also be checked after the vehicle has encountered a major road hazard or curb.
12-19-2011 | 09:49 AM
#10
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From: Pawtucket, RI
The need to check alignment has little/nothing to do with tire/wheel changes.
If the alignment can go off in 50k miles, there's no need to check every time you change tires if you only get 15k out of them.
Conversely, if alignment can go off within 5k miles, you'd have to check sooner than a tire change interval if you get 15k out of tires.
1. The alignment inspection interval isn't directly related the tire change interval.
2. You can get an alignment that meets spec, but that sucks for handling, stability, and tire wear.
3. Particularly for the S2k, you're *much* better off knowing what exact alignment you want versus just getting a generic "alignment", which only ensures that you're within a *very* broad spec. Rear toe spec for the AP1 is 0.32 to 0.64 degrees total. The difference in handling characteristics and tire wear between those extremes is HUGE!
Know what you want and need before you drop your S off for an "alignment", otherwise you're likely to pay upwards of $100 for very little/no work while not getting any kind of improvement in handling or tire wear.
If the alignment can go off in 50k miles, there's no need to check every time you change tires if you only get 15k out of them.
Conversely, if alignment can go off within 5k miles, you'd have to check sooner than a tire change interval if you get 15k out of tires.
1. The alignment inspection interval isn't directly related the tire change interval.
2. You can get an alignment that meets spec, but that sucks for handling, stability, and tire wear.
3. Particularly for the S2k, you're *much* better off knowing what exact alignment you want versus just getting a generic "alignment", which only ensures that you're within a *very* broad spec. Rear toe spec for the AP1 is 0.32 to 0.64 degrees total. The difference in handling characteristics and tire wear between those extremes is HUGE!
Know what you want and need before you drop your S off for an "alignment", otherwise you're likely to pay upwards of $100 for very little/no work while not getting any kind of improvement in handling or tire wear.