Will this affect handling negatively?
#1
Will this affect handling negatively?
To start I've read all the stickies and spent countless hours reading the threads in this subforum and others without finding a definitive answer to my question. My question is essentially how wide and low of an offset can you go before handling begins to get worse?
I've been looking to get 17x9 +45 fronts (225/45) with 17x10 +38 rears (255/40) with an aggressive alignment and rolled fenders, but would do something else if this negatively affects the handling, especially the fast back roads type. As an extension how much camber is too much to run? The setup seems to require about -2 up front and somewhere around -3 in the rear. If this setup simply isn't feasible is a 17 x 9.5 +38 in the rear doable?
Sorry if this has already been posted and I have missed it.
I've been looking to get 17x9 +45 fronts (225/45) with 17x10 +38 rears (255/40) with an aggressive alignment and rolled fenders, but would do something else if this negatively affects the handling, especially the fast back roads type. As an extension how much camber is too much to run? The setup seems to require about -2 up front and somewhere around -3 in the rear. If this setup simply isn't feasible is a 17 x 9.5 +38 in the rear doable?
Sorry if this has already been posted and I have missed it.
#2
Former Sponsor
You can make the setup fit and still have a well handling car, but it might take some body work to get them to fit in the rear, and some rolled fenders up front to keep it from rubbing under spirited driving. -2 and -3 camber isn't crazy to the point of deteriorated handling. I run more than that front and rear on my track car.
#3
To start I've read all the stickies and spent countless hours reading the threads in this subforum and others without finding a definitive answer to my question. My question is essentially how wide and low of an offset can you go before handling begins to get worse?
I've been looking to get 17x9 +45 fronts (225/45) with 17x10 +38 rears (255/40) with an aggressive alignment and rolled fenders, but would do something else if this negatively affects the handling, especially the fast back roads type. As an extension how much camber is too much to run? The setup seems to require about -2 up front and somewhere around -3 in the rear. If this setup simply isn't feasible is a 17 x 9.5 +38 in the rear doable?
Sorry if this has already been posted and I have missed it.
I've been looking to get 17x9 +45 fronts (225/45) with 17x10 +38 rears (255/40) with an aggressive alignment and rolled fenders, but would do something else if this negatively affects the handling, especially the fast back roads type. As an extension how much camber is too much to run? The setup seems to require about -2 up front and somewhere around -3 in the rear. If this setup simply isn't feasible is a 17 x 9.5 +38 in the rear doable?
Sorry if this has already been posted and I have missed it.
One other thing about running the 9 +45 out back is you could technically run 255 all around with some added front fender work, if you wanted to try the non stagger thing and also get the benefit of 4 tire rotation. Personally I like stagger set ups, but my year of S is already balanced best out of the box to run stagger so it just plain works, and I couldn't run my 295's up front if I wanted on stock fenders anyway. The area under the fenders on a stock S, if maximizing rubber front and back, nets a stagger set up. If you run non stagger, then that means you left room on the table out back for more.
#4
personally I would run a 235/40 on the front with a 9" wheel and 255/40 on the rear 10".. I think 225 is a bit narrow for a 9" but it will work and isn't crazy stretched..
my 2c
my 2c
#5
Yes that is a good point. Strange enough though the 225/45 in some brands measure the same or wider then the available 235/40. I just looked at a 235/40 RT615 Azenis compared to an old set of 225/45 SX I had and I swear they looked wider, wish I took the time to measure before I got rid of them. I contribute some of width difference with the shorter profile of the 40. Also, if staying consistent between front and rear tire heights is important to you then 225/45 is the best match for the 255/40 as they are both 25". 245/40 up front is always an option as well if your willing to pull the fenders some. Its slightly shorter at 24.7 compared to 25" of the 255. This gives a little more room for width as well when you go a little shorter profile, if you don't mind the slight increase looking wheel gap.
#6
Thanks for the responses guys. I had my fenders and bumper tabs relocated already and would like to avoid a pull if possible to avoid the chance of buckling a fender. I know I could always run a 8 front 9 rear like everyone else, but I wanted to try something a little different. It sounds like the alignment specs aren't too crazy from the feedback as well; flipping tires isn't a problem for me. I think I'll go with the 9.5 rear for now and if I still have room I may do the 10 down the road.
#7
No problem, sounds good.
And just fyi, no buckling issues to deal with up front, but the rear you do need to be careful. Mine are not pull in the back. Pulled about 8mm up front.
And just fyi, no buckling issues to deal with up front, but the rear you do need to be careful. Mine are not pull in the back. Pulled about 8mm up front.
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#9
Its that or stretching smaller 245's which I don’t condone at all Even then your probably going to need to pull 5mm. My estimations are all based around -3 rear camber. Anymore then this is detrimental to handing and traction out back. You will need to be lowered 1.5-2" to be able to get that much camber out of stock adjusters. If you cant get -3 camber, then your going to need to get a camber kit or pull your fenders even more.
#10
Originally Posted by Jet3010' timestamp='1364494088' post='22435071
Well I bit the bullet and ordered the 10's for the rear after all. We'll see how much additional work needs to be done.
Its that or stretching smaller 245's which I don’t condone at all Even then your probably going to need to pull 5mm. My estimations are all based around -3 rear camber. Anymore then this is detrimental to handing and traction out back. You will need to be lowered 1.5-2" to be able to get that much camber out of stock adjusters. If you cant get -3 camber, then your going to need to get a camber kit or pull your fenders even more.