The Widest Wheel+Tire Setup W/out...
#51
FTLofNA,
Props to you if you wanna model things for the front and rear suspension, but as someone else said, you basically just gotta jack up the car, take off the wheels, and do a bunch of measuring. Once you get the measurements you can try and build a "model" and spacially then see if certain configurations will fit. The front is obviously more tricky because you need to measure the hub from lock to lock (left to right), and account for that range of motion. I guess toe probably doesn't change enough with suspension travel to matter, but you need to account for camber change for sure.
It sounds like kind of a fun project. I guess if I was going to measure out whether X would fit, you have to start with some baseline. I'd say suspension starting height and travel would be my starting point. For a less eloquent and more "brute force" approach. I'd figure out where the hub sits at rest when the car is sitting flat and take some measurements (clearance to components/fenderwell area I'd say) lock to lock. Then I'd calculate how much suspension travel I'd have (this could be a little more tricky). If you use the bumpstops or say 1/2" past the bumpstops as a baseline I'd think that would be realistic. I'm a suspension noob so better to ask some suspension experts to calculate travel (obviously if you have super stiff springs you may not even hit the bumpstops). Once you figure suspension travel out, jack up the hub to where the suspension is fully compressed and take measurements again like before, lock to lock. Now I'd think you should have a good idea with some simpler math which wheel/tire combos should fit. Oh yeah, you probably want to measure the angle of the hubs to account for camber. Rears should be easier as there's only one range of motion and camber to account for.
That last paragraph was just some quick brainstorming of how I'd attack the problem. Maybe you got a better plan of attack.. Good luck.
Props to you if you wanna model things for the front and rear suspension, but as someone else said, you basically just gotta jack up the car, take off the wheels, and do a bunch of measuring. Once you get the measurements you can try and build a "model" and spacially then see if certain configurations will fit. The front is obviously more tricky because you need to measure the hub from lock to lock (left to right), and account for that range of motion. I guess toe probably doesn't change enough with suspension travel to matter, but you need to account for camber change for sure.
It sounds like kind of a fun project. I guess if I was going to measure out whether X would fit, you have to start with some baseline. I'd say suspension starting height and travel would be my starting point. For a less eloquent and more "brute force" approach. I'd figure out where the hub sits at rest when the car is sitting flat and take some measurements (clearance to components/fenderwell area I'd say) lock to lock. Then I'd calculate how much suspension travel I'd have (this could be a little more tricky). If you use the bumpstops or say 1/2" past the bumpstops as a baseline I'd think that would be realistic. I'm a suspension noob so better to ask some suspension experts to calculate travel (obviously if you have super stiff springs you may not even hit the bumpstops). Once you figure suspension travel out, jack up the hub to where the suspension is fully compressed and take measurements again like before, lock to lock. Now I'd think you should have a good idea with some simpler math which wheel/tire combos should fit. Oh yeah, you probably want to measure the angle of the hubs to account for camber. Rears should be easier as there's only one range of motion and camber to account for.
That last paragraph was just some quick brainstorming of how I'd attack the problem. Maybe you got a better plan of attack.. Good luck.
#55
#56
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Since his question has been answered, maybe you can help me out, s2000junky, since you're a pioneer in this wide rim theory.
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar.com/v2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar.com/v2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
#57
Since his question has been answered, maybe you can help me out, s2000junky, since you're a pioneer in this wide rim theory.
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar...2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar...2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
I know you were directing your question towards junky, but I feel I'm experienced enough to weigh in
I'm assuming you'd run a 285/30/18 to maintain proper OD. Comparing that to a popular 9.5j +38 setup with 255's, you're going to end up with a very similar fit. The outside of the wheel would be 2mm more aggressive, but the shoulder of the tire would be sufficiently stretched to essentially sit almost exactly where they would with the 9.5/255 setup. If you don't mind running -3.5 to -4 camber in the rear & around -3 in the front, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
This all of course depends on the height you're wanting to run as well.
#58
Originally Posted by petawabit' timestamp='1364740072' post='22440721
Since his question has been answered, maybe you can help me out, s2000junky, since you're a pioneer in this wide rim theory.
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar...2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
For the longest time, I've been thinking that my end-rim would be a CCW, either lm20 or the monoblock 10 spokes. I've come across forgestars that are half the price, are cast as opposed to forge, have somewhat custom offsets and finishes in the sizes i'm looking for, and don't look all too bad. They don't weigh all too much either, from what I've been reading. Website here:
http://www.forgestar...2/wheelsf14.php
Wheels in question, the F14. Setup is downforce front fenders, rolled rear fenders (very small flare, maybe 5-10mm)
I'm thinking the 18x11 +55 would work? Unless they can do higher than +55 and 11 width. Thoughts?
I know you were directing your question towards junky, but I feel I'm experienced enough to weigh in
I'm assuming you'd run a 285/30/18 to maintain proper OD. Comparing that to a popular 9.5j +38 setup with 255's, you're going to end up with a very similar fit. The outside of the wheel would be 2mm more aggressive, but the shoulder of the tire would be sufficiently stretched to essentially sit almost exactly where they would with the 9.5/255 setup. If you don't mind running -3.5 to -4 camber in the rear & around -3 in the front, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
This all of course depends on the height you're wanting to run as well.
As for the fronts, refresh my memory on how wide the down force fronts give you? Your looking for a square set up I assume?
#59
Pretty darn sure the DF fenders are +30mm.
The tire specs changing between mfg is a good point as well. I didn't mention going any higher with the offsets since that didn't appear to be an option for the wheels the OP mentioned.
The tire specs changing between mfg is a good point as well. I didn't mention going any higher with the offsets since that didn't appear to be an option for the wheels the OP mentioned.
#60
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Thanks for all of the insightful information yeah, the downforce fenders are 30mm wider. Wanting to run a staggered setup so that I can rotate. Not a huge issue if I can't, but an added bonus. Hoping to run a 285 or 295 tire. I'll post pictures later of my ride height which may be a restriction because I'm at full height in the rear with the roll center adjusters. Maybe I'll start with a narrower tire and work my way up when I need to replace them.