General Kratos

*edit* Just saw that there was a Wheel/tire section. But the "Tire Rack" sponsor threw me off. I thought it was Tire Rack's section. If a MOD want's to move this to the wheel/tire section, that would be great. Thanks.



I hope this is the right section. I could not find anything relating to wheel/rim tech questions at all. Anyways, I'm picking up a set of wheels.

18x8.5 +42
18x9.5 +48

I will be rolling both front and rear fenders. What's the widest rubber I can run on both wheels without rubbing and camber adjustment?

I've already came down to the conclusion that I'm running 40 series on both front and rears. And I dont plan on changing my mind. Long story short, pot holes/Minnesota/expensive wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Adam

1nate7

1. 225/40, 255/35
2. 235/40, 265/35

Option 2 will give you a little more width and sidewall. Don't get hung up on the sidewall number, it's a ratio and not a fixed number. The front/rear will have the same amount of tire sidewall in both these combos.

General Kratos

With Option 2, you can vouch that you've ran this setup before or know someone who has? And not just calculating it in your head? Thanks for your input.

B serious

You're likely going to want to run 225 or 235 in order to clear your fenders. You're likely going to need like -4 or more degrees to clear.

B serious

^^I take it back.

-3 or -3.5 depending on tire size.

More than that if you want to run 265's.

The "40 series" in the tire size is a sidewall height,derived from the percentage of the width...not a fixed number, as mentioned before.

General Kratos

So as I mentioned in the first post, if I did not want to make any camber adjustments....what's the widest I can go? The tire sizes you suggested requires me to make adjustments. If making adjustments will decrease the life of the tires, I rather stretch the tires a little, versus a negative camber correction. B serious, you speak from personal experience?

1nate7

You won't need crazy camber either way but option 1 is very safe. My setup, as far as outer clearance, is exactly the same in front and 3mm MORE aggressive in rear. I'm running -1.8 front, -2.5 rear. I am on 245/285 tires but I also have a lot more wheel width on the inside.

B serious

I'm running 17x9 +45 all around with 255's. -3 degrees all around is around what I need/want. I can get away with -2.7ish or -2.5ish if I raise the car. My suspension is set with the tire about 3/8 to 1/2" gapped from the fender (1 finger width).

I have flattened fender lips and cut off the front tabs. No flaring.

I don't understand what you mean by "no camber adjustment". You mean you want to run STOCK camber settings?

Or you just want the camber to fall where it does when you lower it? There's no way to know this number. The camber on the car is adjustable. So it depends on where its adjusted to at stock height and how much you lower it. And...there's no reason NOT to adjust the camber.

If you can do trigonometry, you can adjust for any wheel diameter/offset. Then predict the amount of space the tire takes up.

Again...without knowing what you meant about your camber settings...idk how to answer.

I also used to run a 17 x 7.5 +45 with 225/45's and -2 camber up front. That's about 1/2" less agressive than your front wheel size.

B serious

Mathematically, with a stock diameter tire, you need 1.15 degrees to move the wheel/tire 1/2" horizontally.

If the wheel/tire sticks past your fender's point of contact by 1/2", you need to camber it in by 1.15 degrees to make it clear.

You can put the wheel on, jack the LCA up (sans spring/shock) till the wheel contacts the fender. Measure how much inward movement you need. Then do the math.

Or...I guess, hope for someone to give you the right answer.

1nate7

What is your current ride height and alignment settings? What are the specs of the Blitz wheels in your sig?