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Volk CE28 alloy too soft?

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Old 01-05-2011, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by aresk3b,Jan 4 2011, 09:49 PM
Well guys

Last weekend I was touring by dad around and on the HIGHWAY, I stepped in this little hole like 1 inch deep.

I thought, I marked the rims... again.

Got home and inspected the wheel, no visual damage, but under my finger I could feel this little bump on the wheel lip... AGAIN!!!


JEZUS!!!! I was so pissed...

I decided I'm gonna sell the tires and go back to a wider tire setup. No I have 215F and 245R I'm rolling back to 225 and 255.

Screw the thread consumption!
I'm on tein green coils... what's the biggest Height I can Run? 40 and 35?
Learn to drive with your eyes open

These wheels are forged - very very strong - you must be doing something to bend them.

Old 01-05-2011, 08:47 AM
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Who cares if they're forged, they use forged material so they can use less of it. These wheels are extremely weak IMO. Sure a cast wheel is made with weaker material, but the CE28's are thin as heck. So no, they arent the best for hitting pot holes with.

Also, why all the hate on his camber setting, the more negative camber you have, the less likely you are going bend the OUTER lip.

IMO, it has to do with the heavy springs on your coil-overs, the fact that you're running 18's vs something smaller and a light weight racing wheel, there are strength related sacrifices anytime you're stripping weight off of a wheel, stripping weight is essentially stripping strength from the rim, you take off as much material as you can while still maintaining a given safety factor.

Point being, drive extremely carefully. I always leave room infront of me so I can spot the road, if you're tailgating you're begging for rock chips and bent rims.
Old 01-07-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by -Jordan-,Jan 5 2011, 09:47 AM
Who cares if they're forged, they use forged material so they can use less of it. These wheels are extremely weak IMO. Sure a cast wheel is made with weaker material, but the CE28's are thin as heck. So no, they arent the best for hitting pot holes with.

Also, why all the hate on his camber setting, the more negative camber you have, the less likely you are going bend the OUTER lip.

IMO, it has to do with the heavy springs on your coil-overs, the fact that you're running 18's vs something smaller and a light weight racing wheel, there are strength related sacrifices anytime you're stripping weight off of a wheel, stripping weight is essentially stripping strength from the rim, you take off as much material as you can while still maintaining a given safety factor.

Point being, drive extremely carefully. I always leave room infront of me so I can spot the road, if you're tailgating you're begging for rock chips and bent rims.
I changed lane and I couldn't spot the pothole on time.

But by the way, here in PR, skipping potholes is a National OLYMPIC sport!

LOL
Old 01-07-2011, 10:56 AM
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IMO its the tires not properly protecting the wheel. I have the same wheels, have have always ensured i get tires with strong sidewalls with a rim edge protector and have never had a problem.

Saying the wheels are extremely weak is ignorant. How many wheels do you think can take a direct or repeated impacts from concrete to the lip @ 60mph without rubber protecting them sufficiently?
Old 01-07-2011, 11:20 AM
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Volk wheels are very strong for how light they are. However, you do not get such an extremely lightweight wheel without sacrificing SOME rigidity. As someone has previously mentioned, they are a motorsports-inspired wheel that isn't necessarily intended to survive repeated pot holes and other bumps and bruises and remain 100% perfect.

Run a Volk CE28 and Enkei RPF1 into a curb and see which one looks more abused. I can guarantee that the RPF1 will hold up better. Not every high quality wheel is equally strong. Your tire size is only partly to blame.

Also, one person's pothole is another person's "crater." I've hit a pretty good size hole that took a small chunk out of an Enkei PF01 - supposedly one of the strongest wheels available. I had Hankook RS3's on with more than sufficient tire width. It would've done the same damage to a Volk or a Rota.
Old 01-07-2011, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandMasterKhan,Jan 7 2011, 11:56 AM
Saying the wheels are extremely weak is ignorant. How many wheels do you think can take a direct or repeated impacts from concrete to the lip @ 60mph without rubber protecting them sufficiently?
No it isnt, trying handling these wheels without tires. I powder coated a set a couple weeks ago and merely tapping the floor with the lip would yield a dent. I had forged aluminum centerlines, they were the same size as the CE's I recently handled and weighed 10lbs more each. Dont get too hung up on the material.

They're made of forged aluminum.. really thick forged aluminum tin foil.
Old 01-08-2011, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Duke Togo,Nov 8 2010, 04:01 PM
Volk wheels aren't particularly strong either btw. People forget they are racing wheels and as such they are considered a wear item by the manufacturer Rays.

There weight loss is due to using less material - enough to pass a standard crush test for road use.

But not as durable as there oem collection like the Z ect which use more material and as a result are more durable.

The RPF1's are a great wheel for durability due to there highly reinforced rim section at the cost of some weight which is why you actually see them used by un-sponsored teams quite a bit
This is complete misinformation and should be disregarded entirely.

Volk Wheels are one of the strongest wheels made.

Please go to the link below and you will find all the testing certificaiton standards relevant for alloy wheels. American, German TUV and Japan JWL.

http://kulchawheels.com/alloy_wheel_...n/standard.php

The JWL japan standard stipulates the following tests, I will note the JWL standard cycles of testing and then Volk Racings own standard for the same test.

Drum endurance test: 500,000 cycles
Volk Racing test: 1,000,000 cycles

Radial Load Failure test: 100,000 cycles
Volk Racing Test: 200,000 cycles

13 degree impact test: 594 kg
Volk: 610kg

The following are the tests that Volk wheels are certified to over and above the JWL and TUV standards:

90 degree Impact (drop) test (1 ton weight drop form a height of 140mm.

Post impact drum test (18 inch wheel, 800,000 cycles)

Wheel rigidity test (FEM analysis rim stress)

Wheel Coat Performance Test
(Salt spray, film adhesion. weather resistance, etc..)

The RPF1 is an much less expensive and far less robust wheel in every way and by any standard, it is commonly known to bend and also break under track conditions with regularity.

Clearly there are very few if any wheels made to as high a standard as the Volks.

The forums are read by many as a means to educate and gather information based on facts from those who have the knowledge and experience.

Please refrain from posting in areas where you obviously have neither.
Old 01-08-2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by -Jordan-,Jan 7 2011, 05:07 PM
No it isnt, trying handling these wheels without tires. I powder coated a set a couple weeks ago and merely tapping the floor with the lip would yield a dent. I had forged aluminum centerlines, they were the same size as the CE's I recently handled and weighed 10lbs more each. Dont get too hung up on the material.

They're made of forged aluminum.. really thick forged aluminum tin foil.
It is not recommended to Powder Coat forged aluminum or magnesium wheels as it can weaken the metal. If you can tap it on the on the floor and they bend, sounds like you weakened the metal pretty good. Whoops. Expensive mistake.

You'll also see threads where people have powder coated the OEM honda ap2 wheels and the end result was tons of cracking of the wheels.

I am not saying it Can't be done. I am saying if its not done exactly right your taking a big risk of significantly weakening the metal.

Your also saying you powder coated Centerlines? I had a set of Centerline wheels and they did bend pretty easily. :/ thats why i own the better volks now. Much better forged wheel.

I have three spare volks sitting upstairs, ill be happy to use them as a hammer to prove a point. I bet they wont bent and will drive a few nails haha.
Old 01-08-2011, 01:47 PM
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The powder coat used on wheels has a lower cure temperature. A black rim can almost get hot enough in direct sunlight to cure this powder. It should have no influence on the strength of the wheel.

Im not in any way knocking the Volks for their strength (for their given context). The strength:weight ratio is as good as it gets. But it should be obvious when you're street driving with a "race" tire to watch out. An oem 18" wheel is far less likely to crack or bend on the same pot hole a CE might, it also weighs twice as much.
Old 01-08-2011, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by -Jordan-,Jan 8 2011, 03:47 PM
An oem 18" wheel is far less likely to crack or bend on the same pot hole a CE might, it also weighs twice as much.
This statement is based on what?

You are wrong.


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