Wheels and Tires Discussion about wheels and tires for the S2000.
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STI 18X8.5 +55

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Old 04-27-2015 | 09:01 AM
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Default STI 18X8.5 +55

There are some Subaru STI wheels that are 18X8.5 +55 have to enlarge front bore to fit.

Anybody running this setup on stock S2000's?
Tire sizes?
Rubbing issues?
Old 04-27-2015 | 03:56 PM
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I have seen them on a few s2000's. Rears are fine but fronts would need a roll especially if lowered. Several examples right away on google images.

https://www.google.com/search?q=s200...Q&ved=0CB0QsAQ
Old 04-28-2015 | 03:16 AM
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Thanks for the reply and information.
Old 05-16-2015 | 09:13 PM
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Fwiw, most of those pics are of the 2005-2007 WRX STI BBS Forged 10-spoke rims (17x8 +55).
They look good (enough) they're forged, light (ish) and I've had mine take brutal punishment on the track and RallyX/Rally Sprint and TT and they've held up to everything.
So, for the money they cost used (eBay etc) they're good/strong rims.
I've got a spare set of those in my garage that I've been debating putting on my S2000 to replace the stock AP1 16" rims but you (or I) either have to bore them slightly to clear or else run ~5mm spacers.

However, like you, I was also looking at the 18x8.5 STI/BBS Forged rims off the 08+ and then the ones of the latest STI, but then you'd have to run 225/40/18 and 255/35/18 to keep the OD roughly the same, and I'm not sure if those would clear the front without rubbing.

IF anyone IS running them, then I'd be curious to know if they fit and how well they fit or if they rub as they're pretty easy to find and fairly cheap for a Forged/BBS rim and since they clear Brembos on the STI, they *ought* to clear BBKs on the S2000...

(my AP1 came on the Eibach Pro Plus kit, so it's lowered about ~1" as best I can tell).
Old 05-18-2015 | 07:49 AM
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I thought the hub bore on STI wheels is 60 or 64 mm, meaning you'd have to either bore the wheels or run some sort of hubcentric spacer/adapter?
Old 05-18-2015 | 12:06 PM
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You would just need a 5mm spacer. Makes it so the wheel is pushed out and not sitting on the hub. Then the correct seatl lug nuts (I assume conical like more aftermarket wheels use).
Old 05-22-2015 | 08:27 PM
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the wheel sits on the hub for a reason. I wouldnt suggest to anyone placing all the load on the lugs themselves unless you're a hardparker.
Old 06-08-2015 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RedCelica
the wheel sits on the hub for a reason. I wouldnt suggest to anyone placing all the load on the lugs themselves unless you're a hardparker.

The load is on the clamping force created by the studs/nuts in either case. That hub bore is not sharing the load. As long as you have enough thread engagement, a spacer is completely fine.
Old 06-08-2015 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO
Originally Posted by RedCelica' timestamp='1432355230' post='23622481
the wheel sits on the hub for a reason. I wouldnt suggest to anyone placing all the load on the lugs themselves unless you're a hardparker.

The load is on the clamping force created by the studs/nuts in either case. That hub bore is not sharing the load. As long as you have enough thread engagement, a spacer is completely fine.
Yep exactly. All the force is on the studs regardless. 5mm spacer inmop is the best/easiest option, unless the added 5mm is going to compromise fender fitment. At 8.5 +50 it wont as long as you cut the liner back and bend the tabs out of the way so they don’t catch on the tire. 245 would be little problem at that point with some decent track camber.
Old 06-08-2015 | 12:42 PM
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The hub sticks out a few MM at best there is no way there is any real force on it as there just is not enough surface area. I guess if the lugs all came off it may stay on the hub for a millisecond. This is why having the proper lug nuts and having them torqued correctly is important as all of the force is on the lugs.


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