non-staggered is definitely the way to go. I wouldn't ever go back myself. First must do mod though that won't break the bank that will really help is to do a larger front sway. On my ap2 I simply stepped up to an early ap1 front sway and that definitely made a noticeable difference.

 

erm... your nick may be slightly2ned but your car sure looks tuned!

Thanks for visiting my post hehe... Do feel free to comment and share any feedback u have...

I have also set up a facebook fan page for non-staggered S2k's, do check it out!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1454024&id=599155884&ref=mf#!/pages/Non-Staggered-S2000s/181230218587683
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Have you tried out different front sway bars with your non-stag setup?
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Not yet. Still on the stock. What would u recommend? I am currently still sorting out the power & aero but the turn in so far iks already excellent and the grip is more than what I initially expected.

 

30mm whiteline front

you can read more about it here

http://www.motoiq.com/projects/project_honda_s2000.aspx

 

I hate to discredit their cars, but the driver of that car is about 10 seconds off pace at a 1:25 track in part 7 of the series. I'm faster on stock suspension with cheaper tires. Aero is not a significant factor at Streets of Willow. I don't believe a buttonwillow time was posted for that car earlier in the series, but he is also significantly off pace there as well. I wouldn't put TOO much into the article.

It does make me curious as to what my oil temps are, as my UOAs always come back solid.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but this question sounds like it's up to the driver's preference and style of driving. I mean, why do some stock cars have a staggered set up to begin with? If you're worried about understeer, adjustments can be made to the suspension if you wanted to keep a staggered set up. Performance-wise, if you were to isolate it just to the wheels and tires, is non-staggered generally the way to go?

 

Imo Honda went to staggered wheels to help keep the back end in line - when you can't do anything more with the chassis, you change the wheels. Unless actively tracking/competing, I don't see the need to go to staggered over OEM, its more of a want.

 

If you read the article/series, you'll notice the author stated the car was loose and is looking for additional suspension setup changes. You personally know how much slower a loose car is Also, there's a thing called mechancial empathy and the desire to drive the car home in one piece. Watch the videos, the car is going quick but certainly not being pushed. If you listen carefully, there are definitely spots where he could have downshifted but didn't. When I watch a lot of videos posted from S2k Challenge events, I personally cringe at the complete lack of any mechancial empathy shown to the cars. Sure, they're going faster, but completely beating on the cars too. If the car is a pure track car? Sure, why not. For a daily driver, I would never do that. I personally don't push more than 90% at the track and typically avoid hitting any curbs or bumps. For example, back when I had my turbo Nissan SE-R, I was still on the original transmission after 80k miles of boost and 160k miles total. I knew of guys that had broken five transmissions making less power in 50k miles.

 

With an unusable rear, I was still putting down 1:30s all day, with passengers, doing drift laps. Even at WSIR, I was no more than 3.5 seconds off my personal best. We both know how much higher the consequences of going off at WSIR is.

I neither shift hard nor abuse the car. I get shit for it all the time because it slows down my lap times. My car is also my DD. Brakes and tires are consumables; they're meant to be used. I do see the car as a long term consumable as far as it is concerned.

Every single s2k challenge car is street legal, registered, and driven both to and from the track. If you don't count Jim's car last year, then every s2k challenge car in the history of the series has been street legal, registered, and driven to and from the track.

I mean, I have 76k miles on a ACT clutch. It can't possibly last that long being daily driven in so-cal traffic, countless canyon runs, and a few thousand track miles without mechanical sympathy, right?

 

I don't get why people would go non-staggered on a RWD car blows my mind.

 

Have you tried a non staggered setup? Switching from an AP1 tire setup to non staggered 255/40/17s was single best performance modification I've done to my car. I think AP1s (maybe just early AP1s with the softest front springs and stiffest RSB) will want to run a bigger FSB to compensate for the increased front grip. As mentioned, others have had success with stock AP2/CR suspension and non staggered tires/wheels.