I've already looked through the main thread about wheel fitment, but was wondering if anyone can confirm these exact specs?

So I'm thinking of buying these Wheels/Tires from Tirerack.com:

Enkei RPF1
Front: 17x7.5 +48
Rear: 17x9 +45

Tires
Front: 215/45
Rear: 245/40

This is the link to the Tirerack.com wheels:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...545BS&i2_Qty=2

I was wondering the following:
1. Can anyone confirm if these are the "ugly" version of the RPF1s that everyone says not to get?
2. Has anyone ran these on their s2 without fender work? Was there any issues with turning, rubbing, etc.? I plan on lowering it to about 1-2" between the tire and the stock fender (depending on how it looks).

 

Fronts are the convex (ugly face?) and rears concave. But will fit without fender modification with your selected tire sizes. 9"+ widths are the concave face threshold. All convex face under that width. Its what I run, and to me looks proper on a rwd car, plus you get the added BBK clearance.

 

Thank you for the quick response, I was told that the convex was considered the "ugly" rpf1? I really don't understand what they mean by that, but sorry last question.

How low is your car lowered? I was thinking maybe 1-2" from the tires, dependent on any issues with turning, rubbing, etc. that comes with that ride height.

 

Just means the convex spokes are flat faced, wile the concave spokes are more sunk in, accentuating the lip of the wheel. You can see an example in my sig. No issues with your proposed ride height.

 

Yeah those need a fender roll.

 

With a proper alignment, the classic 8/9" +45 paired with factory size tires doesn't require fender modification. With the even less aggressive 7.5 +48 its a slam dunk. Lowering the car 1" isn't going to change anything. Lowering it 2" and your goign to want to trim the rear bumper tab. If your a driver that enjoys bashing up driveways with the wheels turned, then cut the front liner back and bend the two tabs up with your fingers.

 

Whatever you say. I have seen to many screwed up fenders and signs of rubbing with these specs to advise otherwise. The front is the main issue. The rear can be solved by camber but the front can't. They need a fender roll in my book to be safe. The OP is welcome to do as he pleases.

 

I've seen ruined fenders on a 7.5x50 with a 225 neova up front with a mild drop. I'm sure you can get away with it if you are strictly cruising around but I can guarantee you that any performance driving whatsoever the fronts will rub. You will need a roll on all 4 to stay safe.

 

I wouldn't get this setup without rolling.

I got 9+45 in the rear, granted, I had 255's. I was at stock height though. Just got the wheels/tires back from install. Mounted them on my cars and wanted to take it around the block just to feel the new tires. Hit a mild bump at 25mph (I hit it at 45mph in my daily and barely feel it) and the rear tires made contact with the lips on the quarter.

Put a nice groove in my new tires, and there was slight damage to my quarter lips.

On top of a roll, I would also relocate the rear tab. After I rolled, I left the tab in for a while. Made contact with that a few times after I lowered my car before I finally decided to remove it.

 

I guess no one listens...

'Stock size tires 215/245'. Not 225/255's! Its a close fitment as is, and running the improper width tires for the speced width rims and offsets are going to give you rubbing problems. You can always air on the safe side and roll/mod the fenders, but not everyone wants to do that if it can be avoided. Its common to see unsavory warble looking fender rolling from the outside, especially up front, so I get its a hard pill to want to swallow. And preferably as mentioned cutting the front liner out and bending the mount tabs by hand is a way to get the clearance you need without rolling, and cutting the rear is the better option. Its a gamble to get a 100% clean looking roll job, coupled with the risk of cracking paint. choose your poison.