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Changing f/r weight distribution is a lot harder than adjusting toe. To change F/R distribution you must move large masses from the front of the car to the back of the car. The only *easy* option on the s2000 would be to move the battery from just behind the front wheels to just behind the rear wheels. This results in a 1% change in f/r distribution, which 99.9% of drivers would never be able to detect.

Also, changing weight distribution would not achieve the "same thing". Even half the toe-out we're talking about would definitely result in a difference in handling feel, whereas major efforts to move the center of gravity will only result in minor changes that would be barely (if at all) detectable.

 

^Gotcha, good info man. Sorry to go somewhat OT but what about tire pressures, would toe still be the easier route to better steering response? I'm due for an alignment and might move off the zero toe I had last time.

 

I like to run as close to *zero* toe, front and rear, as possible. I would stick with zero toe up front, and minimal rear toe, like 0.2 degrees total. I *hate* the idea of using toe (in or out) to fix handling issues, as any toe results in DRAG. Sure, it's *easy* to use that drag to affect handling feel, but I'd MUCH rather optimize handling with minimal toe. Better for speed, better for fuel economy, better for tire life.

 

that tire looks like my front right

 

i agree that the handling on a rutted/grooved road sucks very bad with the toe like that. i had to fight the car a lot to go straight.
i do not know if my times were any better or not as i dont really pay attention as long as i come close to the fastest guys i would be happy.
i do feel that this helped with the back end getting sideway as easily as it had before and got rid of a lot of the push under steer.
it feels nice on smooth mountain twisty roads but as far as on the street, 0 toe is the way to go. Along with getting the rear toe toned down as the recommended toe in for the rear is way tooo much imo.

 

Don't forget that one of the benefits of adjustable ride height coliovers is to effect weight balance from right/left and front/back. If your "pushing" too much in the front, then drop the front end a tad, or rais the rear if you have to, or even remove some compression damping to get that weight balance to react quicker and dig that tire in, rather then float before settling in. I consider weight bias through ride height a very important component.

 

You cannot adjust f/r or l/r balance without moving masses around. Adjustable coilovers allow you to adjust corner weights only, f/r and l/r balance is dictated by cg location.

 

Weight transfer bias is what I’m talking about, not actual static weight. Weight transfer bias can be manipulated with ride height, particularly front to back differences. Just like spring rates and slow speed damping can aid in the effects, or even the driver for that matter. This is all I was getting at. There is more then one tool in the tool box, if the goal is handling and traction.

 

Hmmm, it sounded like static weight bias was exactly what you were talking about: Yeah, lowering the front will lower its roll center and effectively unload the outside front and add load to the outside rear under cornering. It's the load distribution between the diagonals that changes, though, not f/r or l/r.

 

Here's a pic of rear tires after 0.7 total toe in. Shaved more than 1 second on laptimes and inspired much more confidence during cornering. Wears too fast though.