Have 17x9.5 255 Fitment Question/Suggestion
#1
Have 17x9.5 255 Fitment Question/Suggestion
Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a very clean stock S2000 and am looking to change it up a bit!
Currently looking at a 17x9.5 square setup with offset around 43-48+ with the tire size of 255/40/17 or 245/40/17 with slight stretch.
So far planning to purchase these:
With that being said, is there any other options?
I was considering the UCA instead, but I'm not sure which brand is best for the S2000. I used to have SPL arms on my M4/M2s before, but it seems SPL doesn't have any for the S2000.
My goal is to achieve flush fitment without experiencing consistent rubbing on the fender, allowing for aggressive driving on weekends. Similar to the red S2000 shown in the picture in this thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/wheels-t...stion-1205191/
I am open to suggestions for a different setup that achieves the look of the setup above. In this case, would I have an easier time fitting thinner wheels and tires with lower offsets?
Thank you!
I recently purchased a very clean stock S2000 and am looking to change it up a bit!
Currently looking at a 17x9.5 square setup with offset around 43-48+ with the tire size of 255/40/17 or 245/40/17 with slight stretch.
So far planning to purchase these:
- Coil: HKS Hypermax S or KW/Ohlins
- Wheels: Volk wheels (TE37, ZE40, or Regamaster)
- I know most of the S2000 offsets are discontinued on Volks and available ones are 10-20+ offsets which are very aggressive.
- Suspension: Origin Offset Bushings and J's Racing Front Ball Joints (SP1)
- Fender: Fender rolling, tab relocation, and liner cut, but no pull
- Running -3 camber front and rear
With that being said, is there any other options?
I was considering the UCA instead, but I'm not sure which brand is best for the S2000. I used to have SPL arms on my M4/M2s before, but it seems SPL doesn't have any for the S2000.
My goal is to achieve flush fitment without experiencing consistent rubbing on the fender, allowing for aggressive driving on weekends. Similar to the red S2000 shown in the picture in this thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/wheels-t...stion-1205191/
I am open to suggestions for a different setup that achieves the look of the setup above. In this case, would I have an easier time fitting thinner wheels and tires with lower offsets?
Thank you!
The following users liked this post:
yua (06-15-2024)
#3
I know it's not necessarily what you asked but I have recently documented my experience and setup with SPC UCA ball joints.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br.../#post25064702
I intend to track the car and with how the ball joint is locked while sandwiched between perpendicular slots I feel fairly confident. Install is fairly easy as long as your car isn't too crusty. It gets the same prebaked offset as UCA offset bushings. I have discussed this setup with several other track guys that run the same setup and so far so good.
If you do go with offset bushings I don't think you'll need offset lower ball joints as the offset is baked into the UCA now. The purpose of the offset lower ball joint is to push the bottom spindle further outwards even when your eccentric camber bolt is maxed out. With offset UCA bushings the inverse is done by pushing the top of the spindle inwards. With my setup when the eccentric bolts are pushed max outwards I get around -4.5* camber with the stock lower ball joints, offset lower ball joints not even necessary. Currently I have my car set at -3.6* camber.
If you're willing to settle for 17x9.5+51 with 255 they will fit fairly easily with just offset lower control arms as long as you run track camber in the front. +50 is already sort of the bleeding edge and any lower and it becomes really iffy without UCA adjustment.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br.../#post25064702
I intend to track the car and with how the ball joint is locked while sandwiched between perpendicular slots I feel fairly confident. Install is fairly easy as long as your car isn't too crusty. It gets the same prebaked offset as UCA offset bushings. I have discussed this setup with several other track guys that run the same setup and so far so good.
If you do go with offset bushings I don't think you'll need offset lower ball joints as the offset is baked into the UCA now. The purpose of the offset lower ball joint is to push the bottom spindle further outwards even when your eccentric camber bolt is maxed out. With offset UCA bushings the inverse is done by pushing the top of the spindle inwards. With my setup when the eccentric bolts are pushed max outwards I get around -4.5* camber with the stock lower ball joints, offset lower ball joints not even necessary. Currently I have my car set at -3.6* camber.
If you're willing to settle for 17x9.5+51 with 255 they will fit fairly easily with just offset lower control arms as long as you run track camber in the front. +50 is already sort of the bleeding edge and any lower and it becomes really iffy without UCA adjustment.
#4
#5
I know it's not necessarily what you asked but I have recently documented my experience and setup with SPC UCA ball joints.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br.../#post25064702
I intend to track the car and with how the ball joint is locked while sandwiched between perpendicular slots I feel fairly confident. Install is fairly easy as long as your car isn't too crusty. It gets the same prebaked offset as UCA offset bushings. I have discussed this setup with several other track guys that run the same setup and so far so good.
If you do go with offset bushings I don't think you'll need offset lower ball joints as the offset is baked into the UCA now. The purpose of the offset lower ball joint is to push the bottom spindle further outwards even when your eccentric camber bolt is maxed out. With offset UCA bushings the inverse is done by pushing the top of the spindle inwards. With my setup when the eccentric bolts are pushed max outwards I get around -4.5* camber with the stock lower ball joints, offset lower ball joints not even necessary. Currently I have my car set at -3.6* camber.
If you're willing to settle for 17x9.5+51 with 255 they will fit fairly easily with just offset lower control arms as long as you run track camber in the front. +50 is already sort of the bleeding edge and any lower and it becomes really iffy without UCA adjustment.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br.../#post25064702
I intend to track the car and with how the ball joint is locked while sandwiched between perpendicular slots I feel fairly confident. Install is fairly easy as long as your car isn't too crusty. It gets the same prebaked offset as UCA offset bushings. I have discussed this setup with several other track guys that run the same setup and so far so good.
If you do go with offset bushings I don't think you'll need offset lower ball joints as the offset is baked into the UCA now. The purpose of the offset lower ball joint is to push the bottom spindle further outwards even when your eccentric camber bolt is maxed out. With offset UCA bushings the inverse is done by pushing the top of the spindle inwards. With my setup when the eccentric bolts are pushed max outwards I get around -4.5* camber with the stock lower ball joints, offset lower ball joints not even necessary. Currently I have my car set at -3.6* camber.
If you're willing to settle for 17x9.5+51 with 255 they will fit fairly easily with just offset lower control arms as long as you run track camber in the front. +50 is already sort of the bleeding edge and any lower and it becomes really iffy without UCA adjustment.
I am more towards Origin offset now. If it is a choice between the UCA, offset lower joints, or offset bushing, which one would you recommend?
#6
I did it at home with one of these kits style kits. It was far easier than I was expecting.
Bushing Removal Kit
Bushing Removal Kit
#7
If you intend to stick to +48 to +43 offset range your best option is some sort of UCA adjustment. Otherwise you will need a slight fender pull. Either use offset bushings, adjustable arms or the SPC offset ball joints. The only adjustable UCA I’d trust are the Ikeya arms or Origin Fab’s unicorn adjustable arms which are even pricier. The SPC ball joints have mixed reports but I think if you set them up right they are fine. Most simple solution are bushings. The kit Bullwings listed I think doesn’t require a press, it has a threaded draw through rod that you would use an impact driver to push the bushing out.
For reference this is my car with -3.5 static camber through offset lower control arm ball joints and the tire jacked upwards to simulate compression. Wheel and tire are 17x10+48 with 255 RE71RS. As you can see the tire kisses the wheel lip at the shoulder. Now 17x10 does stretch a 255 and widens the shoulder more than a 9.5, but I’d say it’s marginal, only 2-3mm or so. I’d expect a 17x9.5 to still have similar clearance at the shoulder and any lower offset will have worse interference at the fender. So really if you want safety you need UCA adjustment.
To be truthful even with 17x9.5+51 with 255 I did rub the fender slightly at the trailing edge in high speed corners at the track. Nothing bad enough to bacon a fender but I did rub off the paint.
For reference this is my car with -3.5 static camber through offset lower control arm ball joints and the tire jacked upwards to simulate compression. Wheel and tire are 17x10+48 with 255 RE71RS. As you can see the tire kisses the wheel lip at the shoulder. Now 17x10 does stretch a 255 and widens the shoulder more than a 9.5, but I’d say it’s marginal, only 2-3mm or so. I’d expect a 17x9.5 to still have similar clearance at the shoulder and any lower offset will have worse interference at the fender. So really if you want safety you need UCA adjustment.
To be truthful even with 17x9.5+51 with 255 I did rub the fender slightly at the trailing edge in high speed corners at the track. Nothing bad enough to bacon a fender but I did rub off the paint.
Last edited by Shift9303; 06-15-2024 at 10:15 PM.
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#8
picture of what it looks like using a wrench and plumber's pipe wrench to hold it in place while I turned the compression nuts along the threaded rods. Didn't even do this on a work bench with a proper clamp. Literally did it on my garage floor like this. LOL
And if you need extra torque to break the bushings loose. I really should have used a work bench and proper table clamp. Hahaha
Last edited by Bullwings; 06-16-2024 at 09:24 AM.
#9
If you intend to stick to +48 to +43 offset range your best option is some sort of UCA adjustment. Otherwise you will need a slight fender pull. Either use offset bushings, adjustable arms or the SPC offset ball joints. The only adjustable UCA I’d trust are the Ikeya arms or Origin Fab’s unicorn adjustable arms which are even pricier. The SPC ball joints have mixed reports but I think if you set them up right they are fine. Most simple solution are bushings. The kit Bullwings listed I think doesn’t require a press, it has a threaded draw through rod that you would use an impact driver to push the bushing out.
For reference this is my car with -3.5 static camber through offset lower control arm ball joints and the tire jacked upwards to simulate compression. Wheel and tire are 17x10+48 with 255 RE71RS. As you can see the tire kisses the wheel lip at the shoulder. Now 17x10 does stretch a 255 and widens the shoulder more than a 9.5, but I’d say it’s marginal, only 2-3mm or so. I’d expect a 17x9.5 to still have similar clearance at the shoulder and any lower offset will have worse interference at the fender. So really if you want safety you need UCA adjustment.
To be truthful even with 17x9.5+51 with 255 I did rub the fender slightly at the trailing edge in high speed corners at the track. Nothing bad enough to bacon a fender but I did rub off the paint.
For reference this is my car with -3.5 static camber through offset lower control arm ball joints and the tire jacked upwards to simulate compression. Wheel and tire are 17x10+48 with 255 RE71RS. As you can see the tire kisses the wheel lip at the shoulder. Now 17x10 does stretch a 255 and widens the shoulder more than a 9.5, but I’d say it’s marginal, only 2-3mm or so. I’d expect a 17x9.5 to still have similar clearance at the shoulder and any lower offset will have worse interference at the fender. So really if you want safety you need UCA adjustment.
To be truthful even with 17x9.5+51 with 255 I did rub the fender slightly at the trailing edge in high speed corners at the track. Nothing bad enough to bacon a fender but I did rub off the paint.
#10
Nope. No press needed. Just used this kit. With only hand tools. No impact tools used.
picture of what it looks like using a wrench and plumber's pipe wrench to hold it in place while I turned the compression nuts along the threaded rods. Didn't even do this on a work bench with a proper clamp. Literally did it on my garage floor like this. LOL
And if you need extra torque to break the bushings loose. I really should have used a work bench and proper table clamp. Hahaha
picture of what it looks like using a wrench and plumber's pipe wrench to hold it in place while I turned the compression nuts along the threaded rods. Didn't even do this on a work bench with a proper clamp. Literally did it on my garage floor like this. LOL
And if you need extra torque to break the bushings loose. I really should have used a work bench and proper table clamp. Hahaha
Thank you so much for the info with pictures!