flush without fender mods? How to do it
#1
flush without fender mods? How to do it
If your looking to get some decent flushness with stock fenders, it can be done. the car must be close to stock ride heighth because any lower and a flush fitment will require fender work because of the loss of camber gain that you have. The camber gain built into the S2000 suspension geometry will allow you to run a mildly flush wheel because when the wheel compresses the top of the tire is pulled inward towards the center of the car. You will also need to run a stretched tire to help with the clearance.
Here is an example of a setup that will work without fender mods.
949 wheels
http://949racing.com/17x10-6ULR-Charcoal.aspx
17x9 + 48 949 racing 6UL with a 215 up front
17x10 +50 949 racing 6UL with a 245 in the rear
Static Camber specs will have to be pretty aggressive at
-2.5 rear
-2.8 front
Depending on your suspension condition, you might require the use of camber joints to achieve that camber spec at your current ride heighth.
The real key to getting a flush fitting wheel that is as aggressive as the specs I have reccomended is Tire Stretch & Camber Gain
to further explain camber gain I will try to illustrate it with words as best as I can and give you a test to perform on your car to help you understand it.
When a flush fitting wheel is viewed from the top, it visibly even with the fender. While still viewing from the top as the suspension compresses, you will start to see the top portion of the wheel/tire combo start to lean inwards toward the body. This is because the short arm on the top of the suspension has a shorter radius than the longer arm on the bottom.This difference in radii of the two arms causes the wheel to camber in more as it the arms travel upwards, creating camber gain.
I hope this helps some.
camber gain pics
Here is an example of a setup that will work without fender mods.
949 wheels
http://949racing.com/17x10-6ULR-Charcoal.aspx
17x9 + 48 949 racing 6UL with a 215 up front
17x10 +50 949 racing 6UL with a 245 in the rear
Static Camber specs will have to be pretty aggressive at
-2.5 rear
-2.8 front
Depending on your suspension condition, you might require the use of camber joints to achieve that camber spec at your current ride heighth.
The real key to getting a flush fitting wheel that is as aggressive as the specs I have reccomended is Tire Stretch & Camber Gain
to further explain camber gain I will try to illustrate it with words as best as I can and give you a test to perform on your car to help you understand it.
When a flush fitting wheel is viewed from the top, it visibly even with the fender. While still viewing from the top as the suspension compresses, you will start to see the top portion of the wheel/tire combo start to lean inwards toward the body. This is because the short arm on the top of the suspension has a shorter radius than the longer arm on the bottom.This difference in radii of the two arms causes the wheel to camber in more as it the arms travel upwards, creating camber gain.
I hope this helps some.
camber gain pics
#3
Cool post, very helpful.
I had a question about camber: I know running extra camber has many pros, but what are the cons for a daily-driven, street car?
At what point does the camber cause accelerated or uneven tire wear? Would it cause any extra wear on suspension components because the loads aren't really centered on the contact patch?
I had a question about camber: I know running extra camber has many pros, but what are the cons for a daily-driven, street car?
At what point does the camber cause accelerated or uneven tire wear? Would it cause any extra wear on suspension components because the loads aren't really centered on the contact patch?
#4
Once you pass 1.5 degrees of camber you 'll start noticing wear quite well. Cons for daily driving will be rapid tire wear and thats about it. If your planing on running 4 degrees or more you'll eventually run into early wheel bearing failure and insane toe, which also wears tires even more so then camber.
#5
Originally Posted by TheProfessor,Jul 29 2010, 05:58 PM
Once you pass 1.5 degrees of camber you 'll start noticing wear quite well. Cons for daily driving will be rapid tire wear and thats about it. If your planing on running 4 degrees or more you'll eventually run into early wheel bearing failure and insane toe, which also wears tires even more so then camber.
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