17x9 +40, 255/40, 1" drop only, -3 camber, F12K/R14K springs. STOCK fenders, no roll, no nothing. Been driving like this for a couple of years now never had any rubbing issues. Only the super occasional front fender split second rub when flying over a bump at high speed.

 

First off that picture doesn't show the fitment at all. Need closer pictures and more angles. Would love some pictures of your liners and rear arches. I'd bet there is more signs of rubbing than you think. You either don't drive the car much or have been very lucky to not have anything happen with those specs and no fender roll.

 

-3 camber on the street sucks as well. Poor performance plus half tire life. I know ive run it.

 

I've driven on that setup for about 30k now, of which a good amount I have driven it very hard. Roads in the Netherlands are pretty smooth though so I got that going for me.

-3 camber might be bad on the street but I haven't suffered from it at all personally. I'm on AD08R's and never had such a sticky tire before in my life, so for me it was still a huge improvement. But I can imagine performance being even better with less camber. Also tire life seems really good and see barely any difference between inner/outer tire wear. But all of this doesn't matter too much anyways as the -3 camber is pretty much mandatory if you wanna make this setup look half decent and not poke too much on stock body.

Regarding more pictures, currently I'm on stock AP1 wheels (winter setup) so won't be able to make pics of fitment specifically for a while. Also, some time ago I installed rear ASM overfenders so will never be able to make pics of the rear anymore (installed them in preparation for a new setup, not because of any current fitment issues).

Here are the best pics (still super crappy I know) I could find right now

 

https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.ph...h=9&offset2=40

I currently run 17x10 +50 with 255/40 on rolled fenders only, -3.5 front and -2.5 rear. The 17x9 +40 is essentially the same fitment for "poke". Up front I've got plenty of room for more activities but in the rear I believe this is the limit of what is possible on stock fenders.

 

Hey guys. Sorry I've been MIA. I full sent the wheels and I've test run them for almost a month. I've hit speed bumps going pretty fast and have had no issues. The 40 offset does make it poke out A LOT. But I'm planning on get my fenders rolled and pull sometime this month. I'm also lowering on BC BR coilovers. The tires ended up being 235/40 all around. Should I keep this tire size or go with a different size once I lower and have my fenders worked on?

 

I've seen 17 x 9 + 40 with fender work and -2 to -3 camber has worked pretty well. Why is -3 camber bad for street? Can someone explain this? Thanks guy. I appreciate the feedback a lot.

 

-2 camber is a lot different then -3 camber. Put it this way, at -3 camber you have about 2/3 the tire section width making firm contact with the road surface (that's roughly running a 255 with getting a 165 contact patch) that's fine and dandy if your on the track and your constantly in high g load forcing the outer 1/3 contact of the tire on the ground generating consistent heat across the whole section width of the tire. On the street you rarely will ever get to drive hard and consistent enough both to get the full heat/grip of the tire at those settings, so naturally you want less camber for better overall performance. You also gain better braking performance having more of the contact patch on the ground as well as acceleration grip - for the boosted guys esp)

You also are going to wear out the inside of the tire first, or have to flip them part way through the life which still cost money and is annoying if you can avoid it. There is a point where the car will just feel skittish and unstable in handling with aggressive camber due to the small contact patch and big differences in heat across the section width(a 6" contact/section will heat up faster then a 10" one).

There is a happy medium for the driving environment and how you want the car to handle in general like most things. Less camber on the street generally just works and handles better/more consistent. The width of tires you run and the total spring rate you run as well will influence the camber balance but that's getting into another avenue. Generally for the street anything between -1/-2 is a good balance of street/sport alignment range.

 

I want to know more please

 

In a nutshell, more spring rate the more lateral forces applied to the tire, and the wider the tire the cooler it runs. Camber and spring rate therefore directly influence how effective you are able to capitalize on your tire width and compound choice in various driving conditions. More lateral forces generally mean more camber needed to get an even tire temperature across the whole section width. You also need to see where the tire is rolling over onto the tread to make sure you utilizing the maximum tread width, too much camber and you still will never make contact on the outer patch. Not enough camber and you overcook the outer shoulder running into the sidewall. Narrower tires generally need to run more aggressive camber in a track environment then wider tires to get a more consistent wear and heat across the tire.