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Hello everyone I recently received a "s2k spec" CE28N wheels. Dumb of me not to verify before I paid but when I opened the box I saw on the hub for the rear wheels that the specs were 17x8.5 +50 and not what the seller advertised as 17x9 +63, fronts are still 17x7.5 +50. My plan was to run a 255 tire in the rear (RT660, RE71R, AO52) on stock fenders and use it for mountain, autox, and some track days down the road. The only reason I went with these specs is because I don't plan to roll the fenders and mess with alignment settings too much. Could my planned setup still work or should I look for other options? TIA
Depending on ride height, camber and tire you might rub at the back and need to roll the rear fenders and massage the fender tabs. I'm running 17x9.5+51 all around with 255 RT660s, F-3.2/R-3.0 camber, and probably 1.25-1.5 inch drop. Obviously my wheel is 1 inch wider and this will affect the fitment at the tire shoulder and side wall but over all tread block position should be the same within the wheel well. With several different tires (RE71R, RS4, RT660) have rubbed in the back on the fender tabs. My fenders were rolled but tabs weren't relocated at the time. Since I hit the tabs I probably would have rubbed on the fender lips (in the area they transition into the fender tab) as well without a roll. I rubbed less w/ RE71R and RS4 and got away with a gentle massaging however RT660 run very wide and I had to completely bend and relocate the tab with them. I've heard of people getting away with 245+50 but I think it would still be a tight fit if lowered. It might be a safer bet to go 215/245 stagger first before getting 255s. Foreseeable if you are at stock height you might get away with it if you dial in extra camber.
Shameless plug. This is a pic of my car, primarily reference the rear fitment. The shoulder and side wall will stick out further than yours however I feel that the tread block is still very close to the fender lip.
I think those should still work. Are you lowered at all?
Not at the moment. Bought the car stock. I eventually want to put on Ohlins DFV as I get more comfortable with the car. I want to keep the car close to stock height if I can and change up the spring rates for a staggered setup. At this point I would mess with the alignment settings but keep it geared for a street setup.
Depending on ride height, camber and tire you might rub at the back and need to roll the rear fenders and massage the fender tabs. I'm running 17x9.5+51 all around with 255 RT660s, F-3.2/R-3.0 camber, and probably 1.25-1.5 inch drop. Obviously my wheel is 1 inch wider and this will affect the fitment at the tire shoulder and side wall but over all tread block position should be the same within the wheel well. With several different tires (RE71R, RS4, RT660) have rubbed in the back on the fender tabs. My fenders were rolled but tabs weren't relocated at the time. Since I hit the tabs I probably would have rubbed on the fender lips (in the area they transition into the fender tab) as well without a roll. I rubbed less w/ RE71R and RS4 and got away with a gentle massaging however RT660 run very wide and I had to completely bend and relocate the tab with them. I've heard of people getting away with 245+50 but I think it would still be a tight fit if lowered. It might be a safer bet to go 215/245 stagger first before getting 255s. Foreseeable if you are at stock height you might get away with it if you dial in extra camber.
Shameless plug. This is a pic of my car, primarily reference the rear fitment. The shoulder and side wall will stick out further than yours however I feel that the tread block is still very close to the fender lip.
Yea I'm still stock height and stock alignment settings. I'm still new to the car but I'll be messing with alignment this summer as I drive the car more and attend events. Only reason I'm against rolling at the moment is because the car is unmolested low mileage and trying to feel it out. I'll roll when I can find myself a set of unicorn spec CE28N but I bought "s2k spec" to avoid rolling for now. I was thinking of doing a little R&D but didn't want to mount anything until I get this figured out with the seller. Beautiful car!
If the car is stock, it would probably work and I would run 215/245. I would not run 255.
Yea car is completely stock. Would running 225 F with 245 R throw off the balance of the car? Even though the Ti Gunmetal is beautiful might get rid of them and just use the stock wheels so I can still run 225/255 which is my goal for the staggered setup.
Probably not, people put square setups on these cars all the time, its just a smaller stagger. Are you tracking the car? 255 does nothing for you on the street.
225/245 stagger probably would work fine however it might look kinda funny because the total diameter of the 225/45/17 is taller than the 245/40/17. If you plan to auto X then non stagger will be faster however it will affect your classing if you do it with aftermarket wheels.
Probably not, people put square setups on these cars all the time, its just a smaller stagger. Are you tracking the car? 255 does nothing for you on the street.
Yes I plan to track the car as I get more seat time, I'm planning to attend AutoX all summer. It's up in the air but my current plan is to run stagger first then add suspension with the staggered setup before I move to square.
05-19-2022, 04:10 PM
CE28N 17x8.5 +50 rear fitment
