17x9.5 +63 for fronts
#1
17x9.5 +63 for fronts
Hey guys,
I'm trying to find 17x9.5 +63 with 255/40 installed on the front of s2k. I've been searching but apparently people mostly use staggered 8.5J +53 and 9.5J +63 size.
I wanna know b/c I have fresh new 255/40 RE-11 and I don't want to sell since used tire prices devalue greatly.
If I were to get 8.5J +53, the RE-11's are known to run wider, i don't think using 255 wider tread on 8.5 would look good.
Is there someone who has a picture of 9.5 +63 installed on the fronts?
Thanks
I'm trying to find 17x9.5 +63 with 255/40 installed on the front of s2k. I've been searching but apparently people mostly use staggered 8.5J +53 and 9.5J +63 size.
I wanna know b/c I have fresh new 255/40 RE-11 and I don't want to sell since used tire prices devalue greatly.
If I were to get 8.5J +53, the RE-11's are known to run wider, i don't think using 255 wider tread on 8.5 would look good.
Is there someone who has a picture of 9.5 +63 installed on the fronts?
Thanks
#4
But what if you have 17x8.5 with 255 RE11s? Will it make the tires look like "doughnuts"?
Spoon CR93 does not come in 17x9.0". Do you mean 9" or 9.5"?
#5
Originally Posted by clarkster009' timestamp='1417819085' post='23428400
Only issue is youll have 7mm less clearance than a 9" on the inside so you may run when turning the steering full lock. I know it's already very tight running a 9"+63.
#6
Most likely the inside of the rim will hit the control arms are full steering lock. If your ever looked at a s2000 running a 17x9+63 rim in the front, when the steering is at full lock the inside of the rim is like 1mm front touching the lower control arm. A 17x9.5 +63 rim will stick inside 6-7mm more than a 17x9+63.
#7
Originally Posted by LordSovereign' timestamp='1417827028' post='23428506
[quote name='clarkster009' timestamp='1417819085' post='23428400']
Only issue is youll have 7mm less clearance than a 9" on the inside so you may run when turning the steering full lock. I know it's already very tight running a 9"+63.
Only issue is youll have 7mm less clearance than a 9" on the inside so you may run when turning the steering full lock. I know it's already very tight running a 9"+63.
[/quote]
Most likely the inside of the rim will hit the control arms are full steering lock. If your ever looked at a s2000 running a 17x9+63 rim in the front, when the steering is at full lock the inside of the rim is like 1mm front touching the lower control arm. A 17x9.5 +63 rim will stick inside 6-7mm more than a 17x9+63.
So, 17x9.5" +63 will need a 10mm spacer in order to avoid the inner contact.
Is it required to use extended studs when you have 10mm spacers because you lost 10mm of thread depth?
Also, I read one person saying the RE-11s run narrow tread width, is that true? I've always thought the RE-11s run wider?
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#9
talking about spacers is like talking about religion or politics! Some swear by them some hate them. I can tell you that if run anything over 3mm you start to lose needed thread count on your studs. Depends on the metal thickness of the wheels you are using( you might gain a mm). A 5 mm spacer is pushing it. A 10 mm spacer and you are danger to yourself and anyone around you. That said with extended lugs and the proper nuts you can easily run a 10 mm spacer, but here is where the debates comes in. Does it mess geometry of the car, is it safe, does it give various suspension parts more wear, etc? You can research that for a month and not have a yes or no answer.
The other thing is putting on extended studs is a big job on the S. You have to pull the wheel hubs, and press out the wheel bearing, before you can press out the old ones and press in new ones. New wheel bearings are then installed. To pull the wheel bearings you have to pop every ball joint on the car. I would guess if you paid someone to do the whole thing and they were not your buddy you might pay near $1000 to have it done.
The other thing is putting on extended studs is a big job on the S. You have to pull the wheel hubs, and press out the wheel bearing, before you can press out the old ones and press in new ones. New wheel bearings are then installed. To pull the wheel bearings you have to pop every ball joint on the car. I would guess if you paid someone to do the whole thing and they were not your buddy you might pay near $1000 to have it done.
#10
I'd be much more concerned about rubbing the inner upper fender frame like this.
Got rubbing on my inner upper with 17x9 +48. Obviously this will only happen under hard cornering (like at the track). This was with OEM suspension. I should hopefully not have those problems anymore since i'm running 700 lbs. springs up front on coil overs.
Got rubbing on my inner upper with 17x9 +48. Obviously this will only happen under hard cornering (like at the track). This was with OEM suspension. I should hopefully not have those problems anymore since i'm running 700 lbs. springs up front on coil overs.