10" rear wheels.
#1
10" rear wheels.
Anyone running 10" wide rear wheels without any modifications to suspension or fender? Is this possible? if it is, what would the minimum offset need to be? I was thinking 55 offset at least, but I am not sure about that; What would the tire size need to be to make this happen?. Any posibility of making any contact with any parts on the inner side of the wheel? thanks. I do have adjustable suspension, but I do not want to start making any camber adjustments. I am fine with rolling my fenders, but that's as far as I am willing to go on modifying stuff to make the wheels fit. Thanks in advance for any info you may provide.
#2
If you are willing to roll your fenders then you have a pretty wide range of offsets that will work without rubbing. Assuming a 255. 10+45 has been done with minor compromise, and would be the absolute maximum outer fitment, but I would advise you limit to +50 as to not run into alignment compromises. For the inner clearance you can go as much as +75 and not even need to roll fenders. But that's unnecessary to run that deep into the wheel well and it would look pretty sunk in. I would aim for anything between +50-60 offset and just roll the fenders.
#3
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17x10 +50 is what I'm using front and rear.
Since you only axed about the rear:
-Stock fenders with flattened lips (not flared).
-Cut/relocated bumper tabs.
- neg 3 deg of camber using the stock adjusters.
- pos 0.15 deg of toe per side (stock adjusters).
One could likely get away with -2.5 ish deg camber.
I'm using 255mm RE71R's which run narrow.
Since you only axed about the rear:
-Stock fenders with flattened lips (not flared).
-Cut/relocated bumper tabs.
- neg 3 deg of camber using the stock adjusters.
- pos 0.15 deg of toe per side (stock adjusters).
One could likely get away with -2.5 ish deg camber.
I'm using 255mm RE71R's which run narrow.
#4
17x10 +50 is what I'm using front and rear.
Since you only axed about the rear:
-Stock fenders with flattened lips (not flared).
-Cut/relocated bumper tabs.
- neg 3 deg of camber using the stock adjusters.
- pos 0.15 deg of toe per side (stock adjusters).
One could likely get away with -2.5 ish deg camber.
I'm using 255mm RE71R's which run narrow.
Since you only axed about the rear:
-Stock fenders with flattened lips (not flared).
-Cut/relocated bumper tabs.
- neg 3 deg of camber using the stock adjusters.
- pos 0.15 deg of toe per side (stock adjusters).
One could likely get away with -2.5 ish deg camber.
I'm using 255mm RE71R's which run narrow.
#5
Site Moderator
For unmodded fenders you'd need 17x10 +70. Volk used to make some but I have never seen anyone else make one. Rolled fender 17x10 +50 fits so does 17x10 +45 but takes a little more camber.
#6
Thanks for the info. Now, I checked the catalogs from ESR, Volk, Rota, TSW, and 2 or 3 more brands ( i don;t recall which ones). What other ones are out there that you might think coul be worth looking at? my budget is 1800 max for wheels. thanks.
#7
Site Moderator
Wedsport. They make a 17x10 +55. Several vendors on here carry them. http://nebula.wsimg.com/1756c2d0df0f5e7ef25fd52d790af892?AccessKeyId=22279 7CBA9FA48746F89&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
For that price range Volk is out unless used. Not many brands make a 17x10 in an S2000 offset. Advan makes one as well I think. Check evasive if I remember correctly.
For that price range Volk is out unless used. Not many brands make a 17x10 in an S2000 offset. Advan makes one as well I think. Check evasive if I remember correctly.
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#8
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#9
B serius, What are you front suspensions settings, and what does the toe in adjustment have to do whit fitting these wheels? do you still use your fender liners? thanks
thanks Manga and S2000 junky for the information.
thanks Manga and S2000 junky for the information.
#10
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Yes I absolutely still have fender liners because it is a street car.
I would NOT describe them as bolt-on fitment wheels. But its not so hard.
Front fender lips are flattened and 2 liner tabs are cut off. Don't fold them. Cut them off. I also sliced the fender liner on the very outer edges.
The rear has flattened lips, trimmed bumper lips, and relocated bumper tabs.
If you're driving an an AP1, I would use a REAR toe setting that is straighter than stock. Something like +0.1 or +0.15 deg max. The rear toe setting and bumper lip trimming and tab relocating determines how much the wheel will scrape the bumper on dips. The goal is no scraping...it takes some work.
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