Powering in-car devices
#1
Powering in-car devices
Here's something that has me a bit frustrated ... the best way to safely tap into both switched and constant 12V power in my S2K, without causing damage.
I have HD dashcams front and back, equipped with a battery monitor to shut them off when the battery goes below a certain voltage. The cameras run continuously when the ignition switch is on, and also while the car is parked as long as battery voltage remains above a certain level.
The trick is to know where to tap into the appropriate circuits (and no, I don't want to use the cigarette lighter socket), without damaging existing wiring or my knuckles. I have to admit that working under the dashboard is "challenging" at best, but I'd like to connect to the appropriate wiring so that it remains hidden, safe, and immune to insulation chafing. It was a piece of cake on my CR-V, but the S2K is a different story ... the cable harnesses are well wrapped.
Someone suggested that I hook wires around a fuse tab in the fuse box, but that's just plain dumb ... it's risky, prone to failure, and bad engineering.
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have HD dashcams front and back, equipped with a battery monitor to shut them off when the battery goes below a certain voltage. The cameras run continuously when the ignition switch is on, and also while the car is parked as long as battery voltage remains above a certain level.
The trick is to know where to tap into the appropriate circuits (and no, I don't want to use the cigarette lighter socket), without damaging existing wiring or my knuckles. I have to admit that working under the dashboard is "challenging" at best, but I'd like to connect to the appropriate wiring so that it remains hidden, safe, and immune to insulation chafing. It was a piece of cake on my CR-V, but the S2K is a different story ... the cable harnesses are well wrapped.
Someone suggested that I hook wires around a fuse tab in the fuse box, but that's just plain dumb ... it's risky, prone to failure, and bad engineering.
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#3
Wow! That was a fast answer
Searching for "add-a-circuit" on the Canadian Tire web site comes up empty, but Lordco might have them. I'll look around. I like that this gadget provides a separate fuse for the added circuit. If I can't find one, those three attach points on the fuse box look like a reasonable solution.
I'm fussy about properly soldered connections, safety fuses, good shrink-wrap insulation, and bundling wires to avoid insulation chafing, so it looks like I'll need to do a bit of under-dash calisthenics either way.
Gotta get this done before the Loop and Baker runs.
Thanks muchly for the pointers!
Searching for "add-a-circuit" on the Canadian Tire web site comes up empty, but Lordco might have them. I'll look around. I like that this gadget provides a separate fuse for the added circuit. If I can't find one, those three attach points on the fuse box look like a reasonable solution.
I'm fussy about properly soldered connections, safety fuses, good shrink-wrap insulation, and bundling wires to avoid insulation chafing, so it looks like I'll need to do a bit of under-dash calisthenics either way.
Gotta get this done before the Loop and Baker runs.
Thanks muchly for the pointers!
#5
There are some taps on the internal fuse box for what you want do. Photo is probably in the maintenance section.
There are 3 leads: Always on; switched with ignition; and with the lights on. I think!...
Someone will post the photo within an hour, I'm sure,
-- Chuck
There are 3 leads: Always on; switched with ignition; and with the lights on. I think!...
Someone will post the photo within an hour, I'm sure,
-- Chuck
#6
I found the "add-a-circuit" devices at Lordco on Marine Drive. Two of those, plus a package of low-current fuses, came to less than $25.
The devices come in two physical sizes ... use the Mini size for the S2000.
The devices come in two physical sizes ... use the Mini size for the S2000.
#7
FYI, I pointed to those at the bottom of my second post. The link has pictures!
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#9
Finally got the job done. The cameras now work the way I want and there is no exposed wiring. I used a pair of "add-a-circuit" fused devices ... they're simple, trouble free, and eliminate having to splice in fuseholders.
You really do need to be a contortionist to run wiring under the dash while keeping it safely away from sharp edges. And I've got sore muscles and scraped hands and knees to prove it
You really do need to be a contortionist to run wiring under the dash while keeping it safely away from sharp edges. And I've got sore muscles and scraped hands and knees to prove it