Anyone know a shop that will do our alignment by moving our subframe?
#11
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John at Advanced Automotive said he got the sub frame back to dead center and corrected a few alignment issues.
The car drives much better now, and I no longer have to fight the car to go straight. No more sweaty palms and no need to make mid corner corrections now. Everything's happy on our end again-thanks to Advanced Automotive.
Curious point: John commented after he did the job that most people just want the car to drive straight. I was one of the only few people who asked him to put the sub frame back to dead center. I kind of got the feeling that this is the reason that he doesn't like to do 'high performance' cars anymore
I guess we're sort of the very picky kind of customers.
Darwin
The car drives much better now, and I no longer have to fight the car to go straight. No more sweaty palms and no need to make mid corner corrections now. Everything's happy on our end again-thanks to Advanced Automotive.
Curious point: John commented after he did the job that most people just want the car to drive straight. I was one of the only few people who asked him to put the sub frame back to dead center. I kind of got the feeling that this is the reason that he doesn't like to do 'high performance' cars anymore
I guess we're sort of the very picky kind of customers.
Darwin
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by spoonek4
[B]What gives u that feeling man?
He said to me that he doesn't do high performance anymore. It takes too much time. He used my car as an example and went on to tell me the story I quoted about the cars just driving straight and my car taking so much time and effort to do. He no longer preps. cars for autocrossing.
Darwin
[B]What gives u that feeling man?
He said to me that he doesn't do high performance anymore. It takes too much time. He used my car as an example and went on to tell me the story I quoted about the cars just driving straight and my car taking so much time and effort to do. He no longer preps. cars for autocrossing.
Darwin
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Originally posted by JL9000
Yes.
Yes.
He told me that doesn't make any different no matter fibre glass, CF or aluminum on high speed...
But he said CF GT-wing looks better than others..of course I agreed with it....
I heard someone saying Aluminum would make a bit different because it's weigh can steady the car in high speed.....
kind of confuse now.......
Can anyone post more info about the GT-wing?? that would be great if there is a comparison info for different kind of wing......
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We don't make a habit of going 190km/h. We don't much like the look of a wing on the car or any car. If we did drive like that the car would have a load more mods. E.g. Big brakes (the brakes laughed at Christy when she hammered them at that speed), coilovers, yes, probably the wing, and others.
That's also one of reasons why were staying away from a SC. It will off-balance the car. To do it right I don't what to put a piece on at time playing catch-up. By adding 100+ hp the mods. will most likely add up to more than $20K to get the car right again.
Darwin
That's also one of reasons why were staying away from a SC. It will off-balance the car. To do it right I don't what to put a piece on at time playing catch-up. By adding 100+ hp the mods. will most likely add up to more than $20K to get the car right again.
Darwin
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There was a discussion about rear spoilers for the S2000 about a year ago and it was concluded that the Mugen 3 pieces is the only real deal. It provides up to 200lbs of downforce (I forgot the exact speed). Unless you're going to track your car every weekend, there's really no practical use to haul a huge ass wing around all week long.
Darwin has a good point, this car is all about balance. If you want to go fast you better be prepare to brake fast and most importantly you better be prepare to manhandle the power. I am the limitation of my car so until I'm her master there's no point in adding stuff to her that I won't use. Of course each to his own.
Darwin has a good point, this car is all about balance. If you want to go fast you better be prepare to brake fast and most importantly you better be prepare to manhandle the power. I am the limitation of my car so until I'm her master there's no point in adding stuff to her that I won't use. Of course each to his own.
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Originally posted by ttang
and din't you say the did some shortcut so it would mess up the alignment?
and din't you say the did some shortcut so it would mess up the alignment?
After reading the DIY clutch change thread. The shop manual specifies dropping the engine and front subframe which requires an alignment afterwards. The car seems to drive okay. I'll discuss this with Christy and look into getting the car checked. It was about an 8 hr job. Some guys on the DIY thread took 10hrs or more.
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Originally posted by ttang
and din't you say the did some shortcut so it would mess up the alignment? [/B]
and din't you say the did some shortcut so it would mess up the alignment? [/B]
I did post at one point that the engine was tipped back and the clutch removed this way. However, I spoke too soon. I edited the original post as I found out after talking to Alan at A&J that they did infact drop the subframe to do the job. After reading the DIY clutch change thread again I discovered a guy who checked into the tip the engine back method put stress on the delicate components like the electrical bits and the valve cover contacts the firewall. I'm glad A&J did it the right way.
Darwin
Hey, Tim. I been meaning to ask who'd it go with the straight/test pipe. Install? Power? Engine light?
Problems?
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