ruexp67

It's possible, all you have to do is unplug the connector on the e-brake assembly itself. (I think I have have a picture, hang on...)


The problem is that the BRAKE light on the dash will be on ALL the time.

It's the white connector near the left of the picture.

IBMcpa

I haven't accidentally activated the top, but I could see it happening. And while the latches would keep the top from inadvertantly opening at speed, I'd hate to think of the wear/damage to the top motor were I to, say, unknowingly lean my fat elbow on the switch and not realize it.

I agree that it's not needed, but I think it falls into the category of a trick addition that would appeal to those folks that have made/ would make the open top while moving mods. My biggest stumbling block is being able to set a price high enough to offset a small run of parts AND the inevitable product liability insurance.

I don't think I could stomach any more child passengers than I already accomodate. I've thought about strapping in both of my boys to go a short distance (say .5mi to the grocery store or 1mi to the theater), but considering how they get along, to do so would be akin to climbing into a kitten filled burlap sack then thrust into a lake. Heck, I feel like that when I have to go anywhere with 'em three across the bench seat of my truck...

ruexp67

I like the idea. If I were to do it, I would still have the installer cut the wire for the speed sensor bypass (Which is nowhere near the roof switch.) However, it would be pretty easy to wire it up to replace the connector on the handbrake to bypass that by turning the switch.

Of course, one-click on the handbrake acoplishes the same thing. Just not in nearly as cool of a way.

Luder94

Rather than trying to re-innovate the simple switch, how about a simple delay switch using a series of capacitors and a relay? This is right up naseeb's alley.

Again, I don't think that there are many incidences of the swtich being accidently tapped...the larger '00-'03 switch is too recessed. Then on the '04+, the switch is recessed and smaller.

As for ergonomics, what I'd like to see is the top up/down switch control both my windows to go up and down simultaneously. The driver's side window switch control the driver's side window. The passenger side window switch control the passenger window. Finally, the drivers side passenger window switch control door lock/unlock. The only reason I came to this setup is because the wiring for all this is already 85% there.

However, the ideal setup for me would be to control door lock/unlock with the convertible top up/down switch. Control the window switches as is with only an addition of full automatic one-touch up/down for all three window switches. ...and you ask how would I resolve having my top go up and down? Easy...no top needed, hardtop all the time.

Actually, I'm a big proponent of keeping the convertible top system very simple a al Miata. I've always liked the simplicity of a manual "toss-it-back" opening, and "reach-around" to close it. It's save approximately 30lbs of motor and wiring weight in the car.

shift_9k

Yea making that button to operate power locks would be cool. Again Im not down the fancy engineer lingo. Just throwing Ideas out there out of sheer boredom.

IBMcpa

If we're making wish lists, please add a timer in the window circuit that puts the windows up when you put the top completes closing.

Does anyone know if the circuit that disables the top when in motion is simply on/off, or if it supplies varying current based on speed. If so, then it'd be nice to make it adjustable via a potentiometer, so you could set it to allow operation at speeds up to, say, 7mph, but not above. That in combination with disabling the brake feature would be nice and clean. I just want that extra bit of protection, mostly because I'm a nervous nellie.

ruexp67

You could talk to Modifry. His DCI reads the speed sensor wire and can adjust the volume based on that. If he shared his insights with you, you could probably make a module that would fool the top module.

I believe some testing was done and you have to START the top operation with the speed reading at 0. However, the top will continue to move if you start driving up to 6-7mph. I don't remember for sure. PJK3 did the testing.

They modules that auto-up/auto-down. People have wired them to alarms for years. It really wouldn't be rocket science to trigger them off of a timer relay to put the windows back up once you get the top back up. The issue might be making sure the top is LATCHED before you put the windows back up.

IBMcpa

Naseeb - sorry for jacking your thread!

Here's my thoughts on your original request. For lock/unlock you need to generate a pulse to trigger the lock actuator. The existing safety switch is on/off. I'll ask my microswitch connection if they've got a similar size/appearance replacement that will give the pulse feature - one way to lock, the other unlock, balanced in the middle at rest. Keep you posted.

Pete - thanks for the suggestion - I'll have a chat with Modifry about making a speed sensitive cutout and gather his thoughts. I know summer is barely behind us, but my vague recollection is that when I'm backing down my drive, if the speedo reads anything other that 0, the top stops moving. This causes me to have to come to a complete stop before backing into the street (when what I really want to do is proceed blindly, disregarding nuns, small animals, and the regular school bus - I long to be like everyone else in my neighborhood...)

Luder94

There's a security issue with this design...and could potentially be a reason why Honda didn't offer a lock/unlock switch on the door.

With a two-way spring switch, all it takes to acitvate it is a nudge forward or back (in other cases left or right). On a soft top car, a hole could easily be made with either a key end, or a coat hanger. The coat hanger can then be fished into the cabin and rock the switch to unlock the doors.

Just a thought.

naseeb

Hey I'm all up for thread hijacking. Some interesting discussions going on here.