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Winding in those rear calipers

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Old 06-26-2007, 10:45 AM
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Well I now think that my front right caliper might be sticking. Everytime I set off there's a small "tink" sound, and there's pad shaped marks on the disk. And when I got home from a leisurely 3 mile drive home, the drivers side front disk was hot. I didn't think to test the passenger one.

It doesn't feel like it's sticking though.
Old 06-26-2007, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dembo,Jun 26 2007, 10:42 AM
I think I did have the caliper/pad not quite in right. Fine now.

I do believe my car is 100% working.


good to hear dave
Old 06-26-2007, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chilled,Jun 26 2007, 07:45 PM
Well I now think that my front right caliper might be sticking. Everytime I set off there's a small "tink" sound, and there's pad shaped marks on the disk. And when I got home from a leisurely 3 mile drive home, the drivers side front disk was hot. I didn't think to test the passenger one.

It doesn't feel like it's sticking though.
you need to compare one side against then other for temperature to get an indication of whether a caliper is sticking.

A pad shaped mark on the disc isn't uncommon. Sometimes you get corrosion appearing over night that doesn't appear where the pad is in contact with the disc, but does everywhere else that makes it look like a pad shaped mark.
Old 06-27-2007, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Type R,Jun 25 2007, 06:29 PM
Also, I think it's a little risky opening the bleed nipple as you stand a good chance of getting air in the system. I know this from trying
stands to reason that you should put the bleed valve over the nipple before you open it, these things are like 3 quid in hellfords, why risk is without besides if you open the valve you should always bleed it out a bit afterwords.
Old 06-27-2007, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Si2k,Jun 25 2007, 11:02 PM

When you lift off the pedal the master cylinder simply removes pressure from the brake caliper and lines, there is no back flow.
i disagree. There is a degree of back flow because the piston does retract slightly. The run out in the disc pushes the piston back in slightly and there is a degree of 'suck back' from the seals in the piston.

The Honda ESM makes no mention of bleeding any fluid from the calipers when you retract the pistons, nor have i ever seen that in any other manual for a car equiped with abs.
Old 06-27-2007, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by lower,Jun 27 2007, 08:18 AM
you need to compare one side against then other for temperature to get an indication of whether a caliper is sticking.

A pad shaped mark on the disc isn't uncommon. Sometimes you get corrosion appearing over night that doesn't appear where the pad is in contact with the disc, but does everywhere else that makes it look like a pad shaped mark.
I feel a bit more relaxed now. I checked them this morning after my drive to work and the axle pairs were the same temperature. Although the rears were hotter than the fronts.
Old 06-27-2007, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lower,Jun 27 2007, 10:12 AM
The Honda ESM makes no mention of bleeding any fluid from the calipers when you retract the pistons, nor have i ever seen that in any other manual for a car equiped with abs.


Seems like you're just making more work for yourself.

Chilled: you haven't been stopping and sitting with your foot on the brake have you?

Question: How do you get to the pins? On my FTO, the caliper bolts were long bolts with a small threaded part at the top, and the caliper would slide along those. So when changing the pads it was good to give them a healthy dollop of grease to ensure they'd be able to move freely.

The S has small bolts, and presumably a pin or something in there that the caliper slides on. Should we be removing those and greasing them?
Old 06-27-2007, 01:44 AM
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Chilled: you haven't been stopping and sitting with your foot on the brake have you?
Er, don't know. Probably. My journey's very stop start.
Old 06-27-2007, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dembo,Jun 27 2007, 10:40 AM
Question: How do you get to the pins? On my FTO, the caliper bolts were long bolts with a small threaded part at the top, and the caliper would slide along those. So when changing the pads it was good to give them a healthy dollop of grease to ensure they'd be able to move freely.

The S has small bolts, and presumably a pin or something in there that the caliper slides on. Should we be removing those and greasing them?
on the S, you actually bolt the caliper into the slider pins. Once you've unbolted the caliper, the slider pins just pull out of the rubber gaiters.

I never bother putting more grease onto the sliders, just check that they move freely.
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