Yeah im glad I changed it as soon as it started.... just did a chip shop run for family dinner, it drives a bit better to, hmmm maybe its a placebo effect. Purrs like a kitten.... just the clonk to solve now with the shiney new 75a bushes!

 

Although the TCT rattle was alway more pronounced when the engine was warm. Perhaps you need a decent run before being sure it's okay And I can't believe you'd have fish'n'chips in your S! Madness

 

Bagged up, tied up and in the boot with a towel over them to to be brutaly honest is how the fish and chips were transported. car did get up to temperature :-)

 

[quote name='weatyGT' timestamp='1412697273' post='23359899']


Balance pipes looks like a good idea on the primary's

 

Noodles..... explain yourself? :-) Do you mean the little pipes connecting the middle ones? I though they were there to help keep it stable and stop the movement.... is it to help gas turbulance???

I have tried to smooth out the inside of the pipes as there is some weld that isnt smooth..... Unfortunately I have no dremel so I shall deal with this ince I get it back from Zircotec :-)

 

So today,

Magnetic drain plug - Js Racing
10w-40 petronas syntium 1000
why 10-40? That's what the book says and hope to keep this chain rattle away period! Couldnt find casterol edge 10w-40.... so pretronas it was, car had petronas 5w-40 previously.
I guess its more important to change the oil than use a thinner oil.... anyway.

Thanks Si at HendyPerformance.

 

Dont know to be honest but think its to balance the high velocity speed so aid scavenge, thus pull the burnt gas out from the combustion chamber = helps the frequency in the headers i guess

Megaphonitis
also anti-reversion chambers have same results.

 

My blood ran cold when I read this, what you have done mate is put pre-load on the timing chain, you are highly likely to have some engine dramas in the not too distant future. This isn't me being a smart arse angel of death or anything, but please read this thread https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/109...t/page__st__75

Just to do a snap shot of it here is a quote from Billman (who in the best way possible is a smart arse )

[quote = name 'Billman250']
What I mentioned earlier about chain preload is paramount. If anyone has installed ANY TCT (including mine), and had to draw the TCT in with the bolts, then your camwheel bushing is going to be the first casualty. It is very small, and when it fails the entire engine will suffer an oil pressure loss. The bushing will starve, overheat, then fuse itself to the camwheel inner spindle. The spindle will then rip loose from its mounting, and spin on the bolt until it overheats and fuses to the bolt, snapping it off. We have already learned this from loose camwheel bolts that were reported and that I have seen personally.

If you can HOLD the TCT against the cylinder head with the pressure of one finger, you will be fine I assure you. You can then install the bolts and tighten them, provided you can hold flush with one finger while doing so.

If you cannot hold the TCT flush to the head with one finger, and you pulled the TCT flush to the head with the bolts, the chances for severe damage are going to rise greatly. If you are in this class, I strongly recommend you pull the TCT, retract it, and re-check the preload (attempt to hold the TCT flush to the block with one index finger) this goes for all TCTs in existence.
[/quote]

Again sorry to be the mesenger but best to know now.
You need proper advice on this but AFAIK you will need to back turn the engine slightly to give the "loose" side of the chain a bit more slack, good luck.

 

Holy get in touch with him some bod please ^^^^^^^^^^

 

Already PM'd him...