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It wasn't just CAT, engine has gone bang!

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Old 08-07-2013, 03:00 AM
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You are looking a non DBW engine
Old 08-07-2013, 03:45 AM
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That's quite a new non-DBW engine.
Old 08-07-2013, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by K3Nguru
That's quite a new non-DBW engine.
And it appears to come with the 'mandatory' AFM sensor zip-tie accessory
Old 08-07-2013, 08:41 AM
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Excellent, you can explain why you all know that so I can pretend to be clever in future later, for now I'm going to put a deposit on the engine.

Some say Honda have quoted me £480 fitting which is reasonable I think.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
Old 08-08-2013, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Burnsy
Excellent, you can explain why you all know that so I can pretend to be clever in future later, for now I'm going to put a deposit on the engine.

Some say Honda have quoted me £480 fitting which is reasonable I think.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
The moon shaped thing on the side of the grey thing (inlet) is the throttle cable attachment point. Your (good ol') mechanical throttle cable goes from the top of the pedal, around that moon thing and when you press the pedal, it pulls the moon thing and the throttle spindle opens the flap inside the inlet tract allowing the air in. On a DBW car, a small pixie called DC runs up an electrical cable and tells a little black box on the inlet tract to open the spindle. So basically - non-DBW = mechanical (like your bicycle brake cable), DBW = eletrickerry
Old 08-08-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by s3swiss
Originally Posted by Burnsy' timestamp='1375893671' post='22711800
Excellent, you can explain why you all know that so I can pretend to be clever in future later, for now I'm going to put a deposit on the engine.

Some say Honda have quoted me £480 fitting which is reasonable I think.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
The moon shaped thing on the side of the grey thing (inlet) is the throttle cable attachment point. Your (good ol') mechanical throttle cable goes from the top of the pedal, around that moon thing and when you press the pedal, it pulls the moon thing and the throttle spindle opens the flap inside the inlet tract allowing the air in. On a DBW car, a small pixie called DC runs up an electrical cable and tells a little black box on the inlet tract to open the spindle. So basically - non-DBW = mechanical (like your bicycle brake cable), DBW = eletrickerry
Cheers for explaining mate.

I have just paid for the above mentioned engine and it's on the way to my garage who have agreed to match Hondas quote even though they think it's far too cheap.

Happy days. Its a month today I have been without the S. So chuffed it's finally getting sorted. I have had some fun driving my Mum's MX-5 whilst mine has been out of action but it just doesn't compare to the S!
Old 08-08-2013, 11:34 AM
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Better than a hoop & a stick!

If you'd have gone to Honda you'd get a Jizz courtesy car not an MX-5!

DBW TB:



The step motor's in the round thingy underneath.

Cable throttle:



For future reference.

Good this internet thing.
Old 08-24-2013, 05:15 PM
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Ok guys, I have a bit of an update on this and need some more advice/help.

The new engine has all gone in fine according to the garage (I have been away on holiday so haven't been to see the car yet). I spoke to them on the phone yesterday and they said they still can't get the care to fire up. He told me he was getting a fault code relating to the ECU having some kind of issue. He also advised he had tried the new ECU that came with the engine but was then unable to unlock the car etc and I'm assuming the immobiliser was stopping him trying to start the car with this ECU fitted......

Any idea what is going on or why this would be happening? I thought the Keys/immobiliser were a seperate system fitted by Honda and this shouldn't make any difference? I know it's pretty simple to recalibrate the keys etc, is this all that needs doing? Is there any reason my old ECU wouldn't work with the new engine?

I apologise if this info is quite vague but the guy who has been working on the car wasn't there when I called so it was second hand info I was getting from one of the other guys.
Old 08-24-2013, 09:46 PM
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There is no reason why the old ECU will not run the engine which is the route you should be taking, shouldn't really mess with ECU's till after you have started it as you have now introduced different variable's, so put it back to OEM then check and re-check the connectors and earth's again, I think there's two on the throttle body that have the same connector and can be put in the wrong plug, make sure there is fuel up to the rail clear all ecu code's, if you squirt brake cleaner up the inlet as you try to start it, if it fires then it's fuel related if it doesn't then it's electrical.
Old 08-24-2013, 10:42 PM
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I agree with Daytona-Dave. He must have messed with the connectors in the engine. But if he wants to test the donors car ECU just to see if the ECU is the problem, which I doubt it, he has to use also the ignition barrel and key of the donor car


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