Transporting a hardtop without fitting kit
#1
Thread Starter
Transporting a hardtop without fitting kit
Hi,
Okay so I've bought a hardtop kit, however I don't have the fitting kit. A quick search reveals that I attach with the front catches and use budgie cords.
Can anyone give me reassurance its safe, and what length budgie cords are needed and where to attach the budgie cords to?
Cheers
Okay so I've bought a hardtop kit, however I don't have the fitting kit. A quick search reveals that I attach with the front catches and use budgie cords.
Can anyone give me reassurance its safe, and what length budgie cords are needed and where to attach the budgie cords to?
Cheers
#2
I do not know about the length but 1,5-2.0 meter should be fine. I wouldn't use a bundie cord cause their elastic and they won't keep the hardtop in place. I would use a rope or secure straps. I have done this with a friend of mine and one side of the rope was attached on the locking lever of the hardtop and the other on the seat rails
#3
I once put it on the roof of my mother-in-laws Toyota Picnic.. tied it down with one of those Blue Poly Ropes.. drove 80 miles home at 30mph HAhaha
But it was well worth it I didn't have any other way though, I was silly enough to think it would fit inside the car!
But it was well worth it I didn't have any other way though, I was silly enough to think it would fit inside the car!
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: United Kingdom
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You may find it difficult to fit the hardtop with its catch lever assemblies on because the spikes will foul on the rear trim panel 'brushes'. The GT model has modified brush assemblies that allow the spikes to be inserted past the brushes to locate in the catchers. BTW its not just a case of cutting the bristles - there is plastic in the way. Some others don't report any problems but see this post: Previous Post On Subject
Two solutions:
1. remove the spikes on the catch lever by removing the two (vertical) bolts - this leaves the bracket with 3 bolts on the hard top. Problem here is that this will make attaching the tie down straps more difficult - you could loosen the bolts to feed a stap underneath though
2. Remove the brush assembly (two screws on the rear trim panel) and replace with GT spec, modify or leave off completely. It's not a trivial job to take this panel off - straightforward but not that quick - kick plates and rear panel to remove also.
D.
Two solutions:
1. remove the spikes on the catch lever by removing the two (vertical) bolts - this leaves the bracket with 3 bolts on the hard top. Problem here is that this will make attaching the tie down straps more difficult - you could loosen the bolts to feed a stap underneath though
2. Remove the brush assembly (two screws on the rear trim panel) and replace with GT spec, modify or leave off completely. It's not a trivial job to take this panel off - straightforward but not that quick - kick plates and rear panel to remove also.
D.
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#8
Thread Starter
Hi Thanks for heads up
My car is a my00, and I don't know what year the HT is, so will I definitely have an issue transporting using the bungee cords? - it appears so.
I think my best option is option 1 if that's the case?
According to that link listed, I can cut away some of the plastic around the brushes and all will be well , but where exactly?
Cheers
My car is a my00, and I don't know what year the HT is, so will I definitely have an issue transporting using the bungee cords? - it appears so.
I think my best option is option 1 if that's the case?
According to that link listed, I can cut away some of the plastic around the brushes and all will be well , but where exactly?
Cheers