Tightening the rear Hub nut.
06-05-2016, 02:09 AM
#1
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Tightening the rear Hub nut.
Hi, I've got a rear clicking from the rear and I cannot find it! I've replaced all my shocks (Spoon Showa units). Replaced springs (eibach). Fitted driveshaft spacers. Fitted all new Mugan bushes and had full geo. It's still persists.
I thought it was my rear wheel bearing. So removed the rear hub nut and replaced. I torqued it to 300nm. But I still get the click!! I've checked absolutely all bolts at the rear and the boot is empty. It's low speed and occasional change in direction. Only thing left to replace is drop links.
However I noticed when searching our cousins in the states follow bill and method which states to torque to 180ft.lbs and then 60deg further.
Is this the proper way? My search suggests most in the UK torque to 300nm. Billmans way must be way beyond that. I am at 300nm (and a little nip further) and I'm still clicking!!!
Help!
I thought it was my rear wheel bearing. So removed the rear hub nut and replaced. I torqued it to 300nm. But I still get the click!! I've checked absolutely all bolts at the rear and the boot is empty. It's low speed and occasional change in direction. Only thing left to replace is drop links.
However I noticed when searching our cousins in the states follow bill and method which states to torque to 180ft.lbs and then 60deg further.
Is this the proper way? My search suggests most in the UK torque to 300nm. Billmans way must be way beyond that. I am at 300nm (and a little nip further) and I'm still clicking!!!
Help!
06-05-2016, 09:21 AM
#4
Torque it down a bit more, at least 400Nm.
I had a similar noise when I just got my car and after lots of troubleshooting I found out I had a small wheel balance weight inside my tire
This is probably not your problem though but you never know lol
I had a similar noise when I just got my car and after lots of troubleshooting I found out I had a small wheel balance weight inside my tire
This is probably not your problem though but you never know lol
06-05-2016, 10:14 AM
#5
Few folks have a torque wrench of this capacity. Be nice to know someone who works on semi-tractors or locomotives.
I recall the Billman method assumes the nuts are tightened to the "old" torque number. The "new" torque is "one-flat" extra on the nut. On a 6-sided nut that's 60°. Important to remove the nut and apply grease as the spec is based on this, not an old dry set of threads.
I had to stand on a 2-foot long breaker bar to get my nut off and had to bounce on it after cleaning and lube to get it the extra flat on the nut. Be sure to mark the old position, that's the starting point. If you're one flat beyond the old position you should be good.
My drivers license shows me at 185 pounds so on a 2' lever that's 370 lb-ft plus some bounce.
The breaker bar and socket got thru this easily. The bar forks were slightly spread after using the same bar to remove the engine pulley of a buddy's car in preparation for fitting his supercharger. We had to use 4' (3'?) pipes on the bars to get the nut off.
-- Chuck
I recall the Billman method assumes the nuts are tightened to the "old" torque number. The "new" torque is "one-flat" extra on the nut. On a 6-sided nut that's 60°. Important to remove the nut and apply grease as the spec is based on this, not an old dry set of threads.
I had to stand on a 2-foot long breaker bar to get my nut off and had to bounce on it after cleaning and lube to get it the extra flat on the nut. Be sure to mark the old position, that's the starting point. If you're one flat beyond the old position you should be good.
My drivers license shows me at 185 pounds so on a 2' lever that's 370 lb-ft plus some bounce.
The breaker bar and socket got thru this easily. The bar forks were slightly spread after using the same bar to remove the engine pulley of a buddy's car in preparation for fitting his supercharger. We had to use 4' (3'?) pipes on the bars to get the nut off.
-- Chuck
06-06-2016, 12:59 AM
#6
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I never had this problem but did replace my hub a while ago and had to tighten the nut. been fine ever since.
I think I used the billman method. or something along those lines. I had to use either a 3/4 or 1inch drive breaker with the socket (I didn't have a socket big enough in my 1/2inch tools).... pretty much tightened that f@@ker till the rear of the car was lifting off the axle stands! locked the tab washer and its been fine since.
you are supposed to do this with the car on the ground and tighten through the centre cap of the alloy wheel. but mine was on stands already and worked out fine using the weight of the car. bare in mind I do workout and have a pretty strong deadlift.... don't put your back out on my account!
HTH
I think I used the billman method. or something along those lines. I had to use either a 3/4 or 1inch drive breaker with the socket (I didn't have a socket big enough in my 1/2inch tools).... pretty much tightened that f@@ker till the rear of the car was lifting off the axle stands! locked the tab washer and its been fine since.
you are supposed to do this with the car on the ground and tighten through the centre cap of the alloy wheel. but mine was on stands already and worked out fine using the weight of the car. bare in mind I do workout and have a pretty strong deadlift.... don't put your back out on my account!
HTH
06-06-2016, 02:30 AM
#7
Also done this today due to the drivers side clicking.
Greased face of the hub nut.
Was torqued to 170ft lbs as thats what this wrench maxed out on. Then went a further 90 degrees.
Groaning and clicking has now stopped.
Greased face of the hub nut.
Was torqued to 170ft lbs as thats what this wrench maxed out on. Then went a further 90 degrees.
Groaning and clicking has now stopped.
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06-06-2016, 08:22 AM
#9