Throttle Cable
#1
Throttle Cable
In an attempt to improve toe & heel changes I had a look at the throttle peddle to see if I could bend it to bring it up a bit higher and I found a lot of play at the peddle, about 2cm.
This meant that when I was trying to blip the throttle on down changes all I was doing was taking up the slack and of course the throttle was lying a lot lower than the brake which didn't help.
I went to the the other end of the cable to adjust it. Here I found loads of slack, but adjusting the nut moved the cable along to the the part of the cable which has no thread (where you remove it through the slotted carrier), so I couldn't
lock the cable in place. (See arrow in photo 1)
I don't know why there is no adjustment available. It's a 2005 car with only 4500 miles on the clock car so the cable should be OK but as you can see, no adjustment left. To get around the problem I put a spacer under the other end of the cable in the car. (See photo 2)
I used a hard felt washer 7mm thick under the end of the cable, between the alloy end and the rubber spacer/shock absorber thing (See arrow). A Dremel felt polishing wheel which I cut with a sharp knife through to the centre hole was a perfect fit. (See photo 3)
This made the adjustment at the other end of the cable possible, with both nuts on the threaded portion of the cable.
This has made a fantastic difference, I hope the above is of use to others who have a similar problem.
This meant that when I was trying to blip the throttle on down changes all I was doing was taking up the slack and of course the throttle was lying a lot lower than the brake which didn't help.
I went to the the other end of the cable to adjust it. Here I found loads of slack, but adjusting the nut moved the cable along to the the part of the cable which has no thread (where you remove it through the slotted carrier), so I couldn't
lock the cable in place. (See arrow in photo 1)
I don't know why there is no adjustment available. It's a 2005 car with only 4500 miles on the clock car so the cable should be OK but as you can see, no adjustment left. To get around the problem I put a spacer under the other end of the cable in the car. (See photo 2)
I used a hard felt washer 7mm thick under the end of the cable, between the alloy end and the rubber spacer/shock absorber thing (See arrow). A Dremel felt polishing wheel which I cut with a sharp knife through to the centre hole was a perfect fit. (See photo 3)
This made the adjustment at the other end of the cable possible, with both nuts on the threaded portion of the cable.
This has made a fantastic difference, I hope the above is of use to others who have a similar problem.
#5
Originally Posted by AdrianEagle,Feb 27 2006, 08:28 AM
Me seems to remember that a little slack in the cable is essential - but then I could be wrong as I so often am!
#6
There is still slack, enough to make sure the throttle is fully closed at rest. It isn't tight, just removed 95% of the play at the peddle.
Warranty? It only took 10 minutes. Warranty would have taken phone calls, a drive of 15 miles and a day without a car and even then they would have forgotten to do it
Toe & heel changes are now
Warranty? It only took 10 minutes. Warranty would have taken phone calls, a drive of 15 miles and a day without a car and even then they would have forgotten to do it
Toe & heel changes are now
#7
Member
As long as your idle isnt higher then it will be fine, and as long as your open and closed TPS voltages are also ok, or you may affect the power Sounds fine though.
MB
MB
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#8
Originally Posted by Shopman,Feb 27 2006, 10:54 AM
There is still slack, enough to make sure the throttle is fully closed at rest. It isn't tight, just removed 95% of the play at the peddle.
Warranty? It only took 10 minutes. Warranty would have taken phone calls, a drive of 15 miles and a day without a car and even then they would have forgotten to do it
Toe & heel changes are now
Warranty? It only took 10 minutes. Warranty would have taken phone calls, a drive of 15 miles and a day without a car and even then they would have forgotten to do it
Toe & heel changes are now
Hasn't actually happened yet.
I too, set mine so there is a little give only in the cable, to facilitate H & T.
Ovviously, if you twang it and it's in 'G' then thats probably too tight.
Good tip, but those Dremel cotton buds are expensive!
#9
Administrator
Once the throttle cable has stretched that much that it cannot be adjusted any more, time to upgrade to DBW!
(or get a new throttle cable i guess?) Mine is just about there, at 119k miles.
(or get a new throttle cable i guess?) Mine is just about there, at 119k miles.