cheshire_carper

I was reading on here, somewhere, about baffled sumps. Somebody suffered oil starvation on a trackday due to 'slosh' of oil in the sump.

A baffled sump was suggested as a resolution to the starvation of oil.

Remember when the oil bolt recall occured? We all took our Ss into the dealerships for the 3 holed oil feed bolts?

Well I remember the mechanic saying that the paste that seals the sump (think it was the sump) to the block needs time to set.

This got me thinking, is the removal of the sump a complex job? I would assume it is merely undo some bolts (after dropping oil) and pull the sump off the block. Then in Haynes style, replacement is the reversal of removal - but with new paste and/or gasket? I seem to remember the sump on an old Jetta was quite easy to manage.

God knows why I have these thoughts, I just became intrigued.

So, simply, is the removal of the sump on an S2000 as long a job as the Honda mech said it was or is it merely undoing bolts? Is the fitting of a baffled sump a diy proposition?

(I don't want one, I just want to know!)

mikey k

Chesh I'm
With you selling up and the mileage on your car why are you worried about the sump oil flows?

gaddafi

I don't know.

I've never looked underneath. It's probably easy once you have access to the sump. That may be the problem if there's a cross member in the way (or guest for that matter )

cheshire_carper

I'm not actually worried about it

Why I asked? Well purely to understand the concept behind it, I have this sort of head that when its gets a thought in it, it needs an answer. It all started after reading a thread, I think FOZ01 wrote. THEN, when I came home last night, I was drying my car off, I started to look at how much water was on the bottom of the car...There was a LOT.

So I wondered how easy it would be to dry off the complete underside - Looking at the sump I thought, 'I wonder how easy it was for Foz to make that baffled sump change, then a whole process of thoughts started, including, How long did Andy D spend carrying out all of those changes to his car, AB with all of his work and I wanted to know, not about the oil flow, but how easy a job on an S something like that was.

Its weird I know but I thought it might make an interesting thread. Now I read it I`m not so sure....I would like an answer though - I imagine Turtle or Biker1 maybe the boys for this job.

AndyDoh

Its not actually that hard its more of a PITA than hard, you couldn't simply take the sump off have it baffled on stick it back on though(unless you worked in an alloy fab shop ) the liquid gasket they use to seal the sump back to the block requires a good 12 hours to cure(could be more but I'm not 100%)

I had a J's Racing baffled sump which isn't too different from the stock one, I have a stock sump sat in my spare bedroom which I was going to use for my next project but I may look at dry sumping that puppy

cheshire_carper

So when the statement 'baffled sump' is used, it could actually be a stock sump that has had baffles welded into it?

Or in your case, it is a pre purchased sump with baffles in it from a performance house....I think thats right?


So the removal is quite easy then, I would imagine it would be, the time for the liquid gasket to cure is the biggie then?

Amuse Boy

The installation is simple but messy. The liquid gasket needs at least 5 hours to cure.

cheshire_carper

Have you done it AB? If so, why did you do it?

baptistsan

And what's a dry sump?

The Man

A dry sump is where you have a scavenge pump in the sump which basically sucks out the oil & pumps it into a seperate tank, this can be in the boot, under the bonnet - anywhere there is room.

Dry sumps are not actually 'dry' there is always some oil in the bottom of the engine, but a lot less than with a 'standard' wet sump. In this case the oil drains to the bottom of the engine & stays there - oil surge happens under hard cornering, where all the oil moves to one side of the engine, this can expose the pick up & make the oil pump draw in fresh air instead of oil. Bingo, no oil & engine goes bang.

Baffles in the sump are basically vertical plates with holes in fixed into the sump that slow the flow of oil away from the pick up under cornering.

Because a dry sump system has oil in a seperate tank (normally quite long & thin) surge is never a problem because the oil is taken from the bottom of the tank back into the engine.

Dry sumping is expensive, can be tricky to set up - but does release more power because the crank does not go through oil when it rotates. It also adds weight
Its not needed for road use, or even some competition use as long as the oil level is maintained.

Hope this helps
Chris