m1bjr

A knackered release bearing will give this trouble too.
Eventually it gets so eaten that the fork gets stuck, the plate doesnt free completely and so its hard to select gears with things rotating a bit.

sneakfish

Yeah, I know, but the Honda guys couldn't get it to happen when I told them about it and neither could I. Happens about once a month. Do you think its worth getting it looked at again?

Rew

In the currrent climate i am surprised they turned the work away. If you have a search on here then you will see others have done this done foc. I can't see how they can dismiss something that is an intermitant fault, Very little chance they will replicate this. I would call another honda dealer with your chassis number and see if they can check against honda Uk. That's what my dealer did.

Apparently it's a faulty batch of gearboxes fitted to a range of cars identified via the chassi number. mine was smack in the middle of the production run.

honda UK are aware of this!

lower

My old MY00 would be notchy or crunchy when cold if i tried to change quickly. My current MY06 is the same. I just slow down the gear change a bit until the gearbox warms up.

I think part of the problem is that the gearshift is so short and so 'undamped' that you can feel exactly what's going on in the gearbox. I'm sure other car's gearboxes are similar when cold but the manufacturer insulates the gear shift from the feel of the actual gears meshing so you don't feel the notchyness.

lower

how often does it do it?

Mine does it about twice a year and i put it down to me not engaging the gear properly.

smiffy555

OK fella's, thanks for the feed back. I wasn't really worrried as it stops when the box is warm which indicates ther's not much wrong with the sychro'.
I find that if I double the clutch then all is fine, and I totally agree with the above comment about it being a direct link into the gearbox rather than the more modern cable change set ups, then you're bound to have a direct feel with what's going on with 'innards'

Cheers chaps.

S2k Eire

Mine does this sometimes, I can hear the rear brake creak when the handbrake is on and I stick it in first.
I think it was covered in under the hood section, seems quiet common, something about the prop shaft, I could well be wrong.

Honda MTF cured most of my notchiness, shes like butter now, a pleasure to drive...

billybiker

Don't think mine crunches, but I'm probably a bit slower at doing most things these days!

ian_6301

As per the OP's thread title, it's a synchromesh thing.

Synchromesh works by magic and is affected by the thickness (viscosity) of the gearbox oil. If the oil is too thick, the magic can't get through and the synchromesh is less effective.

No, but seriously, the effectiveness of the system is a function of the viscosity.

Therefore, you *could* cure the crappy cold shift by switching to a thinner oil, but this would probably mean less protection for the bearbox at high temperature/pressure/revs.

This is not good.

Oil viscosity will change with use, as the compounds within the oil degrade. It is perfectly feasible that you may see an improvement (or even a reduction) in synchro performance after an oil change.

However, I would offer the same advice as the rest of our brethren: shift more slowly and consider double de-clutching until the box is up to temp.

If you're really worried about wear in the box, (sorry to sound repetitive from a number of other threads) then drop the gearbox oil and inspect for wear debris. If you have any significant amounts of ferrous particles (use a magnet) then this is bad news. If you have a small amount of ferro-bronze (looks like a gold sheen in the oil) then this is just baulk ring wear and to be expected.

sneakfish

I thought the stock gearbox came with an inbuilt magnet as standard?