Synchromesh on 2nd gear
#11
A knackered release bearing will give this trouble too.
Eventually it gets so eaten that the fork gets stuck, the plate doesnt free completely and so its hard to select gears with things rotating a bit.
Eventually it gets so eaten that the fork gets stuck, the plate doesnt free completely and so its hard to select gears with things rotating a bit.
#12
Originally Posted by Rew' date='Jan 21 2009, 06:55 PM
Popping out of second is a known fault on late 2005 to early 2006 cars and is a warrenty job
#13
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Originally Posted by sneakfish' date='Jan 21 2009, 08:41 PM
Yeah, I know, but the Honda guys couldn't get it to happen when I told them about it and neither could I. Happens about once a month. Do you think its worth getting it looked at again?
Apparently it's a faulty batch of gearboxes fitted to a range of cars identified via the chassi number. mine was smack in the middle of the production run.
honda UK are aware of this!
#14
My old MY00 would be notchy or crunchy when cold if i tried to change quickly. My current MY06 is the same. I just slow down the gear change a bit until the gearbox warms up.
I think part of the problem is that the gearshift is so short and so 'undamped' that you can feel exactly what's going on in the gearbox. I'm sure other car's gearboxes are similar when cold but the manufacturer insulates the gear shift from the feel of the actual gears meshing so you don't feel the notchyness.
I think part of the problem is that the gearshift is so short and so 'undamped' that you can feel exactly what's going on in the gearbox. I'm sure other car's gearboxes are similar when cold but the manufacturer insulates the gear shift from the feel of the actual gears meshing so you don't feel the notchyness.
#15
Originally Posted by sneakfish' date='Jan 21 2009, 06:22 PM
Mine always crunches into second when cold, as you say nice and smooth when warm. Changed gearbox oil, made no odds.
Sometimes when pulling away it jumps out of second too, but mostly when I don't engage it correctly as its cold.
Sometimes I cover myself in peanut butter and run into the giraffe enclosure...wait, thats for the mammal-loverUK forum, scrap that.
Sometimes when pulling away it jumps out of second too, but mostly when I don't engage it correctly as its cold.
Sometimes I cover myself in peanut butter and run into the giraffe enclosure...wait, thats for the mammal-loverUK forum, scrap that.
Mine does it about twice a year and i put it down to me not engaging the gear properly.
#16
Originally Posted by lower' date='Jan 22 2009, 12:22 AM
My old MY00 would be notchy or crunchy when cold if i tried to change quickly. My current MY06 is the same. I just slow down the gear change a bit until the gearbox warms up.
I think part of the problem is that the gearshift is so short and so 'undamped' that you can feel exactly what's going on in the gearbox. I'm sure other car's gearboxes are the same when cold by the manufacturer insulates the gear shift from the feel of the actual gears meshing so you don't feel the notchyness.
I think part of the problem is that the gearshift is so short and so 'undamped' that you can feel exactly what's going on in the gearbox. I'm sure other car's gearboxes are the same when cold by the manufacturer insulates the gear shift from the feel of the actual gears meshing so you don't feel the notchyness.
I find that if I double the clutch then all is fine, and I totally agree with the above comment about it being a direct link into the gearbox rather than the more modern cable change set ups, then you're bound to have a direct feel with what's going on with 'innards'
Cheers chaps.
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Originally Posted by craigmatthews17' date='Jan 21 2009, 05:41 PM
does your shunt forward abit when you put it into first at traffic lights from neutral?
lol
lol
I think it was covered in under the hood section, seems quiet common, something about the prop shaft, I could well be wrong.
Honda MTF cured most of my notchiness, shes like butter now, a pleasure to drive...
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As per the OP's thread title, it's a synchromesh thing.
Synchromesh works by magic and is affected by the thickness (viscosity) of the gearbox oil. If the oil is too thick, the magic can't get through and the synchromesh is less effective.
No, but seriously, the effectiveness of the system is a function of the viscosity.
Therefore, you *could* cure the crappy cold shift by switching to a thinner oil, but this would probably mean less protection for the bearbox at high temperature/pressure/revs.
This is not good.
Oil viscosity will change with use, as the compounds within the oil degrade. It is perfectly feasible that you may see an improvement (or even a reduction) in synchro performance after an oil change.
However, I would offer the same advice as the rest of our brethren: shift more slowly and consider double de-clutching until the box is up to temp.
If you're really worried about wear in the box, (sorry to sound repetitive from a number of other threads) then drop the gearbox oil and inspect for wear debris. If you have any significant amounts of ferrous particles (use a magnet) then this is bad news. If you have a small amount of ferro-bronze (looks like a gold sheen in the oil) then this is just baulk ring wear and to be expected.
Synchromesh works by magic and is affected by the thickness (viscosity) of the gearbox oil. If the oil is too thick, the magic can't get through and the synchromesh is less effective.
No, but seriously, the effectiveness of the system is a function of the viscosity.
Therefore, you *could* cure the crappy cold shift by switching to a thinner oil, but this would probably mean less protection for the bearbox at high temperature/pressure/revs.
This is not good.
Oil viscosity will change with use, as the compounds within the oil degrade. It is perfectly feasible that you may see an improvement (or even a reduction) in synchro performance after an oil change.
However, I would offer the same advice as the rest of our brethren: shift more slowly and consider double de-clutching until the box is up to temp.
If you're really worried about wear in the box, (sorry to sound repetitive from a number of other threads) then drop the gearbox oil and inspect for wear debris. If you have any significant amounts of ferrous particles (use a magnet) then this is bad news. If you have a small amount of ferro-bronze (looks like a gold sheen in the oil) then this is just baulk ring wear and to be expected.