Swirl removal
01-11-2013, 04:02 AM
#11
I get on well with Menzerna PO106FA on the S2000. Originally bought the Menz polishes as a kit for my Golf so I'd dare not use anything more aggressive on the Honda.
For the BM get on the PO85RD 3.02 and maybe finish with the PO106FA (if you really want to). You could probably pick up a sample size pack from cleanyourcar.co.uk or similar to see how well you get on with it.
....oh and I'm quite liking Carlack 68 NSC as a sealant these days, never got around to trying poorboys blackhole but some of the results I've seen with it look amazing, so will try that when my NSC has run out.
For the BM get on the PO85RD 3.02 and maybe finish with the PO106FA (if you really want to). You could probably pick up a sample size pack from cleanyourcar.co.uk or similar to see how well you get on with it.
....oh and I'm quite liking Carlack 68 NSC as a sealant these days, never got around to trying poorboys blackhole but some of the results I've seen with it look amazing, so will try that when my NSC has run out.
01-11-2013, 09:09 AM
#12
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It seems to me a lot of the replies are 'suggesting' their favourite products, which to be fair you did ask for, however the problem is your choice of product, your pad, and likely your technique. Poorboys is great stuff but I suspect that product is too mild to properly remove the swirls. I would recommend (if you use Poorboys) that you use Poorboys SSR3 on the same pad you have (which is a polishing pad) - so you see you have a very gentle polish and a very gentle pad and something has to have a bit of 'bite' in it to remove the swirls (SSR3 in my suggestion) (ALternatively if you have a more aggressive pad you could try that with SSR1... but I would read on below first)
So, try PB SSR3 on the polishing pad you have, place 4 pea sized drops on your pad and spread over an 18" square area BEFORE switching on the orbital. This is your working area, focus here, keeping your pad pressed n the area switch it on to about number 5 (of 6 I think) move left to right over this area using overlapping passes and pressing onto the polisher with 2 or 3lbs of pressure, do this until you see the polish become translucent or approx 1-2 minutes. Once the polish begins to clear release the weight on the machine and just allow it to pass by its own weight a couple of passes, then wipe away the polish with a clean and dry microfibre cloth. Do this over the whole car (now you know why detailing takes hours
) until finished. Then using the same techniques as above but with a 'Polish' of choice add lustre to your finish, some of the polishes above would be good, I am a fan of Menzerna too, and their PO106FA or a similar last step product would be ideal. Then you can add some protection by hand or by the orbital on a much slower setting say 3 for example, a wax or other product to keep it in this condition.
Hope this helps, it's difficult to explain in words, and I am sure i have missed something out, but hopefully you can understand what i am trying to say?
To learn, try autopia.org these guys know their stuff. Or 'know their shit' as Patrick likes to say in his signature
So, try PB SSR3 on the polishing pad you have, place 4 pea sized drops on your pad and spread over an 18" square area BEFORE switching on the orbital. This is your working area, focus here, keeping your pad pressed n the area switch it on to about number 5 (of 6 I think) move left to right over this area using overlapping passes and pressing onto the polisher with 2 or 3lbs of pressure, do this until you see the polish become translucent or approx 1-2 minutes. Once the polish begins to clear release the weight on the machine and just allow it to pass by its own weight a couple of passes, then wipe away the polish with a clean and dry microfibre cloth. Do this over the whole car (now you know why detailing takes hours
) until finished. Then using the same techniques as above but with a 'Polish' of choice add lustre to your finish, some of the polishes above would be good, I am a fan of Menzerna too, and their PO106FA or a similar last step product would be ideal. Then you can add some protection by hand or by the orbital on a much slower setting say 3 for example, a wax or other product to keep it in this condition.Hope this helps, it's difficult to explain in words, and I am sure i have missed something out, but hopefully you can understand what i am trying to say?
To learn, try autopia.org these guys know their stuff. Or 'know their shit' as Patrick likes to say in his signature
01-11-2013, 09:42 AM
#14
ALWAYS clay before DAing, ultimately, you're potentially dragging Tar, brake dust, cack off the road, and rubbing it into that lovely paint, and defeating the object of the DA
01-11-2013, 10:32 AM
#16
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Regarding claying, I would say the test is to run the back of your fingers gently over a freshly washed car, if you can feel anything but a silky feel then your car is in need and will benefit from claying, This won't remove swirls however so won't help NottM' problem.
01-12-2013, 01:42 AM
#17
It seems to me a lot of the replies are 'suggesting' their favourite products, which to be fair you did ask for, however the problem is your choice of product, your pad, and likely your technique. Poorboys is great stuff but I suspect that product is too mild to properly remove the swirls. I would recommend (if you use Poorboys) that you use Poorboys SSR3 on the same pad you have (which is a polishing pad) - so you see you have a very gentle polish and a very gentle pad and something has to have a bit of 'bite' in it to remove the swirls (SSR3 in my suggestion) (ALternatively if you have a more aggressive pad you could try that with SSR1... but I would read on below first)
So, try PB SSR3 on the polishing pad you have, place 4 pea sized drops on your pad and spread over an 18" square area BEFORE switching on the orbital. This is your working area, focus here, keeping your pad pressed n the area switch it on to about number 5 (of 6 I think) move left to right over this area using overlapping passes and pressing onto the polisher with 2 or 3lbs of pressure, do this until you see the polish become translucent or approx 1-2 minutes. Once the polish begins to clear release the weight on the machine and just allow it to pass by its own weight a couple of passes, then wipe away the polish with a clean and dry microfibre cloth. Do this over the whole car (now you know why detailing takes hours ) until finished. Then using the same techniques as above but with a 'Polish' of choice add lustre to your finish, some of the polishes above would be good, I am a fan of Menzerna too, and their PO106FA or a similar last step product would be ideal. Then you can add some protection by hand or by the orbital on a much slower setting say 3 for example, a wax or other product to keep it in this condition.
Hope this helps, it's difficult to explain in words, and I am sure i have missed something out, but hopefully you can understand what i am trying to say?
To learn, try autopia.org these guys know their stuff. Or 'know their shit' as Patrick likes to say in his signature
So, try PB SSR3 on the polishing pad you have, place 4 pea sized drops on your pad and spread over an 18" square area BEFORE switching on the orbital. This is your working area, focus here, keeping your pad pressed n the area switch it on to about number 5 (of 6 I think) move left to right over this area using overlapping passes and pressing onto the polisher with 2 or 3lbs of pressure, do this until you see the polish become translucent or approx 1-2 minutes. Once the polish begins to clear release the weight on the machine and just allow it to pass by its own weight a couple of passes, then wipe away the polish with a clean and dry microfibre cloth. Do this over the whole car (now you know why detailing takes hours
) until finished. Then using the same techniques as above but with a 'Polish' of choice add lustre to your finish, some of the polishes above would be good, I am a fan of Menzerna too, and their PO106FA or a similar last step product would be ideal. Then you can add some protection by hand or by the orbital on a much slower setting say 3 for example, a wax or other product to keep it in this condition.Hope this helps, it's difficult to explain in words, and I am sure i have missed something out, but hopefully you can understand what i am trying to say?
To learn, try autopia.org these guys know their stuff. Or 'know their shit' as Patrick likes to say in his signature
Like most thing's practise make's perfect
I have found the Scholl polish's ( S30 for polishing /S40 for refining ) on a Scholl light cut ( orange ) pad is best for polishing out swirl's .
[attachment=32818:041.JPG]
Not yet perfect
01-13-2013, 11:20 AM
#18
Thread Starter
OK, thumbs up to all especially s2knut.
Had a further go with the SSR1, pending some new stuff arriving. Its working a lot better by keeping at it on one area and by doing that i'm not getting the spots i was describing. I dont think the cold helps this though.
I've clayed the roof as that felt rough even after a bit of polishing, much much better now. There isnt loads of swirl on the car but i'm keen while i have time to really tidy the car and prep well for wax. I use r222 on the S so will try that and let you know how i get on.
'm wondering whether there is contamination on the horizontal paint, maybe tree sap or something? I'd expect the paint to feel fairly smooth but it doesnt until i've clayed it. Its a 58 plate car.
Looking good jsh, this one is dark met grey so wont polish up as well as that solid colour (but should be more forgiving)
Had a further go with the SSR1, pending some new stuff arriving. Its working a lot better by keeping at it on one area and by doing that i'm not getting the spots i was describing. I dont think the cold helps this though.
I've clayed the roof as that felt rough even after a bit of polishing, much much better now. There isnt loads of swirl on the car but i'm keen while i have time to really tidy the car and prep well for wax. I use r222 on the S so will try that and let you know how i get on.
'm wondering whether there is contamination on the horizontal paint, maybe tree sap or something? I'd expect the paint to feel fairly smooth but it doesnt until i've clayed it. Its a 58 plate car.
Looking good jsh, this one is dark met grey so wont polish up as well as that solid colour (but should be more forgiving)
01-13-2013, 10:48 PM
#19
I normally go over with tar remover before claying as it gets rid of most of the roughness you can feel, especially on the wings and doors.
Also with the R222 (I have an old tub of P21S that I still use which is the same thing) less is more, apply really sparingly and buff off pretty much straight away without letting it dry otherwise you can end up buffing for ages plus end up with wax hologramming for your effort.
Also with the R222 (I have an old tub of P21S that I still use which is the same thing) less is more, apply really sparingly and buff off pretty much straight away without letting it dry otherwise you can end up buffing for ages plus end up with wax hologramming for your effort.
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