mantecosa

I´ve heard good about Koyorads? they do very thick rads for our cars

mattie170

Going too thick on rads make cooling worse. All of the mugen, koyo, Mishimoto rads are of the same design and will suffer over heating issues whilst boosted on our cars. I have fitted my oil cooler between ic and rad sitting it as high as possible so it sticks out above the ic. Cold air feeds are hard work to fit. I made one for my tts kit but it was tight as you need to run large pipe work not to reduce boost.

Anees

Based on what you have said it seems like there is limited benefit in changing the radiator then? What do you recommend?

mattie170

You'll cook your standard rad instantly on track while boosted. You have two choices either buy one of the off the shelf rads but fit some giant fans or get something like a pace products dual pass rad which then only needs basic cheap slimline fans.

markforrester99

I have the Tegiwa radiator with aftermarket fans.

Originally i did have the Tegiwa rad with the OEM fans but its not an ideal solution as the fans dont sit flush with the radiator so they suck air from the outside rather than directly through the core. I use my NA car hard on track and the rad was alot better than the OEM unit. I also use a oil water heat exchange so the oil gets cooled via the engine coolant which also means it has to work harder.

I went down a similar but less extreme method as mattie except i use a 10" slim Spal fan and a 12" high performance mounted flush on the radiator. My car is not boosted but i intend to go down that route in the future. The cheapo fans you see on ebay are a waste of time. If you use a slim fan then its not going to have enough power to do the job as the fan blade depth is what really forces the air through.

The idea for me was that during a cooldown lap i could switch the fans and and drive into the paddock and cool the car down quickly using the SPAL fans. It does work very well but i have run into the issue that the alternator doesnt like the extra current of the fans it appears and has died very quickly. Like Mattie says as well that the aftermarket fans pull alot of current. My larger Spal fan pulls 60 amps starting current and causes the cars voltage to drop from 14.5v down to 12.8 for a fraction of a second. This also means that you need to wire up the fans to their own power supply and on top of that try and stabilize the voltage when they kick in (capacitor or what mattie has done with the slow starters)

On a side topic Mattie have you had any alternator issues? Im looking to get something thats abit more robust as this is my second alternator in a year. Lots of "uprated" alternators about but not sure whether i believe the claims. Oh the failure is the typical loss of ability to hold voltage at peak loads and the telltale flickering dash cluster.

mattie170

I had to replace my alternator a couple of weeks ago. They don't like powerful fans and a couple of fuel pumps. Think the damage was done to it last year. Both of my new fans pull less than one of my old ones. What's better is the new fans have to hardly come on as the new rad is a lot more efficient.

Be nice if there was a better quality alternator. I'm going to duct some cold air to it as I don't think they get enough cooling when being used heavy like large rad fans

Ultra_Nexus

Standard bonnet leads to an air dam reducing flow efficiency. Vent and be amazed

chrispayze

This is a good point. Give the flow somewhere to go. Did you do this by modifying a standard bonnet or by buying a vented one? Would removing the seal strip across the back of the engine bay help perhaps?

mattie170

I went for a vented bonnet and it made a little difference but the fundamental rad design is wrong. Removing the strip will do nothing, it's the same as using bonnet lifters, if anything it makes it worse as it forces more air into the engine bay but from the back.

A simple off the shelf rad and vented bonnet might work for a NA car but when doubling/tripling the power it's not enough