MB

I'd still look for an air leak and at the plugs first.

Idle control relies on many things so it gets complicated. Once you establish there are no vacuum leaks, we can narrow down from there.

It appears you have a worsening and very regular idle / stalling issue so it could well be a sensor failing, or even an engine issue.

Shall add more later when I ave time for a think.

Dracoro

Where should I check for vacuum leaks? Just around the air intake I assume?

I shall check the spark plugs, although what will that tell me? Are the plugs easily accessible?

Armand

Sorry i posted the TPS being on the right of the throttle body, which is wrong. The TPS is on the left doh.

I did notice an improvement in my situation when i cleaned the throttle body as Bibbs has suggested, and i also swapped the plugs (they were knackered)

Bibbs

Plug can be swapped out in a matter of minutes.

Where in the UK are you?

Dracoro

Purley, Surrey.

I'm reasonably OK with a spanner (I did loads of work on my westie, incl plugs, cambelt and so on) but some cars are easier/harder to work on than others.

I'll check plugs tonight. If stalling on way home, I'll try the carb cleaner as well.

Bibbs

Plugs ..

Take off the black cover, unclip the coilpacks, and unbolt them ..
They are in the holes left. You need the special plug tool out your socket set. Remember to do them up tight, or you may have an issue ..

Injectors ..

Open your fuel tank.
Take off the black plastic cover, and then the 5 bolts holding the rail on. Pull them up, fish out the injector and unclip (check for crud under the seals).

Rebel Red

Dracoro, I've had the same problem you are having for a while now. It started off as you describe your idling issue, intermittently at fist, then slowly getting worse (this is over the course of a 3-4 month period). I went through the Idle thread, did the basics, MAP whacks etc. No change. Dealer has cleaned out the throttle body and used carb cleaner (been in twice now and they haven't a clue to be honest!). I then bought a new MAP sensor from Hard Top Guy, but no better.

Then over the last 2 weeks I've noticed my fuel economy getting a lot worse, where I was getting 280-300 out of a tank, now I am getting 220-250. Also the car isn't pulling very well from low revs, it just feels down on power.

At this stage I reckon it's the Lambda sensor that is the cause of this.

Have found this thread on how to replace it (if it is the problem, that is). You can get a replacement sensor from Hard Top Guy. Thanks to J8mie for this.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...c=464257&st=25

MB

RR,

The only thing I would say is that 280-300 is bloody good going, so I assume you do long runs rather than traffic? I drive like a loon but even when being a bit sensible I never get more than 250 unless on a motorway run.

If your 280-300 is very much the norm, and you have seen a drop then it may well be the lambda.

They fail to low voltage (lean) so the ECU bungs more fuel in as it thinks it needs to richen the mixture. It normally makes a significant difference to the fuel consumption (30-60 miles less per tank) and will hunt / cut out at idle, and hesitiate when not going flat out.

Dracoro

How much are o2 sensors? How can I get Honda to pay for this (assuming this is the cause) with the honda extended warranty?

If only the problem were more regular then I can show them the problem in action! They want to know the sequence of events that lead up to the stalling to ascertain a pattern.

MB

Once the car is warm they should be able to plug in their diagnostic monitor and look at the o2 sensor reading. It doesn't take much to spot a failing one - even if its only stalling intermittently.

I am not convinced this is your problem though Drac - it has other symtoms which you are not getting.