MB

Ok maybe is that, but I would check the pads too. Wheel bearings dont always tend to make that sort of noise when they are shot in my experience unless they have run dry. When they start to fail they tend to be rumbly... There is some play / backlash in the rear wheels but shouldnt be much if the nuts are tight.

What confused me with mine was that it was worse when loading up one of the wheels, ie turning a corner - couldnt suss that one out but must be minute movement laterally in the wheel assemly thus a touch more force on the pad to disc. Certainly turned out not to be the bearing in my case.

But they will know better than I, and its difficult to diagnose over the keyboard!

MB

LTB

Just taken a quick pic of the pads to show how much is remaining. As you can see there is a fair bit of rust on the discs and they are in a bit of a state.

The more observent amongst you may have noticed that the picture is of the off side rear and that it was the near side rear that was causing the problem. The reason for this was me being lazy as it was difficult to get a pic of the near side as the alloys were obscuring and I couldn't be arsed to move the car. The pads have the same remaining on both sides, the pic was just to show how much was remaining on the pads as I want to be able to eliminate the metal marker theory.

MB

Looks to be a bit of meat left on them but cant really tell

See here:

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...hl%3Den%26lr%3D

I cant remember but I think the Honda pads have the wear indicator on the inner side of the pad, so they shouldbe able to check for this with it on the lift.

MB

phils2k

had the same problem with mine, nearside bearing gone, replaced it, and now discover suspension knuckle is distaughted due to my accident and now its needs another new bearing ooops, lucky for insurance, but the whol quote from alan day honda was 600 notes which i thought was not to bad

the first time my bearing went the wheel could b moved side to side and up and down whilst on the ground, had really gone

anyway thought i would share
cya

mikey k

Lee - the rears on the S are crap and tend to lock on the discs if the handbrake is applied when the disc is hot or wet. I cause uneven wear rates on the pads from side to side, noises and corrosion on the disc.

My last two S's went that way.

The current one never has the hand brake on for any lenght of time. I always park it in gear!

LTB

Just a quick update.

I've had the car back for a few days now and noticed the snap crackle and pop sound that you are getting with the spindle nut problem.

The noise wasn't there before I took it to have the bearing replaced so it must be as a consequence of the mechanic not tightening the spindle nut to the correct torque when he reassembled the hub.

Phoned dealer and took it round this morning to try and rectify the problem. I had actually printed out a copy of the Honda News Bulletin that mentioned the popping axle problem for them to look at, but I forgot to take it to the dealers as I was in a rush to get out of the house.

Mentioned to the dealer that the noise may be being caused by spindle nut not being tight enough or could possible be a problem with the CV joints.

3 hours later they get back to me and say they couldn't find anything, but they've tightened up the spindle nut and that seems to have cured it.

My question now is should I take a copy of the news bulleting around there to show them for future reference as I pass by them everyday or should I just leave as is as this may be a bit like locking the gate after the horse has bolted ?

lower

looking at that pic your problem definately isn't the wear indicators and from your last post sounds like it was your hub nut. But you need to get those rear discs skimmed or changed. There's too much rust on there for the pads to scour off and it looks like you've only got 50% of the contact area left!

Nick Graves

I reckon the caliper may be seized, hence the disk corrosion.

The pads are as new.

lower

Possibly, but the corrosion grows from the inside and outside edges of the disc and can wear away the pad before the pad can wear away the rust if the car is infrequently driven.

the rear discs on my old car started to go like this and the calipers certainly weren't seized. i was changing the rear pads on a regular basis (crap pads and track use) so i know there was no seizing of the piston or sliders.

LTB

Discs are corroded on each side to the same extent.

New discs and pads have now been fitted, but if the problem resurfaces I'll mention the possibility of a seized piston to them.

Cheers.