Ade

Mine's a bit notchy when it's cold. It takes a few miles to warm up and certainly longer that the engine. I rarely drive less than 30 miles in it so this isn't an issue. If I was only doing five miles every day I might see it as more of a problem.

arbuckle

Ade,

Ta for the advice

I understand what you are saying and I am considering moving jobs to get a decent commute. I am sick to death of visiting relatives in far flung places to get a decent ride.

I'll give it a real good run this weekend and see what happens.

Cheers

Frisky

Didn't see an answer to this from anyone else so I thought I would chip in!

This has been covered on other threads but they must be hard to find by now, so - cars with hard top have to lose the switches that automatically switch off the interior sensors when the roof is down, it is normally in the roof mechanism but is in the way of the hard top. What you have to do is press the arming/locking button a second time after the lights stop flashing, they will flash a few times again and then the sensors are turned off.

HTH

- Frisky.

Frenchie

I had a lot of trouble with this at the Abinger meet this time last year, as some will recall

It flashes 4 times to signify "locked" and then twice more to signify "interior sensors disabled" after making the second press. (Note: you have to make the second press within three seconds of the last of the first four flashes )

arbuckle

Thanks for the alarm info.

I suppose a bit of FTFM is in order as as well as not being able to set the alarm properly I also managed to open the boot by pressing the key fob but can I do that again!!

Cheers

cheshire_carper

Arbuckle....thats normal...

each owner is allowed to open the boot once and once only with the keyfob, then the system shuts down and forces the key or interior button route until the end of time.


You are not alone....

moor deybe

My gearbox had a 2nd to 3rd gear 'clunk' (especially when cold) that felt like the gear lever was catching on a notch when going into 3rd. It stopped somewhere between 1,000 and 3,000 miles and now at 7,000 miles everything is as smooth as silk

Frenchie

Aha! Some more button pressing dexterity here also! You have to press the "Open" button hard and long IMMEDIATELY after the indicator lights go out when you unlock the car. That releases the boot-lock. If the car is already unlocked, then this doesn't work. You have to relock the car then do it.

I've heard that operating the alarm and locks on an S2000 is going to be incorporated into a new 'Krypton Factor' series, to be shown next year

Turtle

The gear shift doesn't sound like anything to worry about. It's worth bearing in mind that 2nd has triple-cone, rather than double-cone synchromesh. This is for the extra load on this particular shift. It's one of the most common shifts, and often needs to take in a large rpm change, so a lot of work for the synchro.

(Interesting aside for other owners. See if you notice any difference in the shift effort between 1->2nd, and 3rd->4th.)

The gearboxes also take quite a few miles to really be at their best. The initial 600 miles running, isn't just for the engine either - the varied rpms, use different gears etc is also to help all the moving parts bed.

I'm on my second gearbox. The first was replaced @ 9,000 miles. It kept improving until around 4,500miles when it seemed fully run in.

My second gearbox has proved to be better than the first. I've done around 16,000 miles on this one, and it's great

Every car's going to be different, but I wouldn't expect the gearbox to be fully run in until you've done quite a few more miles.

-Brian.

cheshire_carper

Brian,

did you swap the box as a result of a problem, or you just wanted a box swap?