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Siezed bush...

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Old 12-27-2010, 02:56 AM
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Default Siezed bush...

So when i had the goemetry done, they found only one bush was siezed, i would like to fix this and replace the pair, but im noit sure which one it is!

Can any of you guys tell from the pics, let me know which one it is, where i can get new ones (poly maybe) and how difficult it is to replace?







Cheers
Old 12-27-2010, 03:35 AM
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loftust says:

That's the Compliance bush/Castor bolt. There are no Polybushes available, so you will have to fork out for Mugen or Spoon ones as Honda do no sell them either.

They take a while to get into the country, but these guys sell them:

http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/mugen-front...ush-p-3839.html

It's likely that the bolt will have to be chopped out too, so you will need to buy a new bolt and collar...you may as well replace the nut as well. I'm fairly certain I have these at home. They cost ~ £80 from Honda, so you can save yourself a bit of cash if you take them off my hands for a reduced price

It's a PITA to replace tbh, but you do not need a press as you can chop the old one out (takes approx. 30 mins) and use a vice + 4 sockets to push the new bush in.

HTH
Old 12-27-2010, 03:43 AM
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loftust says:

These are the part numbers for the replacement bolts you will inevitably need, so you can check Honda's prices

51392-S2A-000 (Collar, Front Arm, Lower)
51393-S2A-000 (Nut, Self Lock Cam, 12mm)
90171-S2A-000 (Bolt, Front Arm, Lower)

When you had the Geo done however, did they REALLY try and free the bolt? Applying Plusgas over the course of a few days, some heat, and a breaker bar may suffice
Old 12-27-2010, 04:07 AM
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or buy a can of Plusgas, soak it and try to free it off yourself (if the bush isnt perished)
Old 12-27-2010, 05:43 AM
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As Matt says, and as cupracing says (if your lucky that is, as it doesn't always work).
Old 12-27-2010, 09:05 AM
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there is no reason why you can't save the nut and bolt every time, undo the subframe bolts and wedge it down on one side, remove the arch liner so you can get a spanner ontop of the nut and a spanner on the adjuster, hold both then crack the bolt off with a breaker

then if you have to cut the adjuster out then force it round and snap the rubber, then you can rotate it as needed for grinder access
Old 12-27-2010, 10:24 AM
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Damn I thought it might be the compliace bush... Is there any 'benefit' to a mugen or spoon one? If not and it's going to be costly I might just have to accept the camber is out if spec!

They did have a fair go with a long breaker and lots of spray, all the others popped ok but not this one. It was done at TGM and they thought it would need cutting off!
Old 12-27-2010, 10:33 AM
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There's not much point forking out for coilovers and getting the Geo done if it's going to be out of spec...even if it is just one corner...it will still affect your driving experience.

You could always get a second hand arm

Very easy to replace...you'd still need a new bolt/collar however...unless ste_nova's method works.
Old 12-27-2010, 11:38 AM
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I have a single siezed bush too, same rear side as it goes but its the other one.

I was going to just leave it, but I get uneven tyre wear when I run my 17's, so I'll have to get it sorted, but it does mean that I can get my FRSU done too then.

When are you getting yours done Adrian ??

Tom will be doing mine too, it will be interesting to see what it costs you.
Old 12-27-2010, 01:03 PM
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Don't kjnow when mate, TGM have got my Caster and Toe 100% to spec even with this one siezed, i just had to accept a bit more camber than spec to make the 2 sides match.

Running 1.60 deg camber front end, and 2.30 deg rear, shouldnt cause me any issues i dont think, as the toe and caster are ok. I will ask tom about cost to replace and see if he can source the parts.

Loftust if i go ahead ill take you up on that bolt.


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