cheggers

Got the alignment done after replacing my front lower bushes and although the garage managed to get it in spec, the front subframe has apparently seen better days and the tabs through it (which the adjustment bolts sit through) are starting to crumble!

I've got a decent subframe coming from a breakers that I was going to get shot blasted and powder coated.

Just wondering if anyone knew of a 'How To' thread? Had a search but can't find anything.

WinFreak

Have a read in Chippo's restoration topic, there's some talk about the subframes with photos and such

Ultra_Nexus

You could just get new tabs welded on. They aren't in any way a structural component.

CHIPPO

The main thing with the front subframe is you have to support the engine while its out as the two main engine mounts bolt directly to the subframe. I think its most likely easiest to leave the rack on it as you drop it of. But you might land up with the wheel all cock eyed when it goes back on, maybe be a bit more diligent than me and mark up the steering column so it goes back correctly.

I already had the car on axle stands , under the front of the chassis rail. i then sorted a pile of nice oak blocks out to put under the sump and a few soft timber shims to fill the last few mm. Then carefully loosened the subframe bolts and then the engine mount bolts. Subframe was on the trolley jack, and lowered the lot in one go leaving the engine on the blocks. and car on stands. After wards i realised i could have left all of the lower wishbones in place to. I managed to get this lot back on my own in one assembly , wish bones and rack. Don't forget the earth cable to the rear of the subframe and the one onto the rack.

With the subframe off the most stubborn rusted adjusters yeld to the persuasion of a 4lb lump hammer and drift. All cleaned up and put back with a large dollop of Marine water proof grease. My advice is forget all that lark with copper grease it isn't water proof or resistant to wash out like marine grease is.

Off the top of my head i can't think of any thing thats pertinent. i am sure there a few other thing you need to do as it comes of but i am sue these are self evident.

Do we mean the external cam followers that the bolt cams rotate in ? It would be possible to get some laser cut and welded on from some 3mm steel plate, just measure the OD of the cam and get some Auto cad person to do a drawing with the correct amount of eccentricity. Mine were all ok and only had surface rust.

borgjohnson

Hi Chippo, I realize this was several years ago but thank you for the information. Could you tell me if it's possible to unbolt the steering rack and leave it in place while dropping the sub frame? Also, for the LCAs are you saying it is easier to only separate from the knuckle and drop the sub frame with them attached?

Thanks!

Scigheras

Not Chippo but yes and yes. Done it like that multiple times now when swapping engines. Unbolt steering rack and tie to cross beam with wire. LCA: unbolt sway bar end links, coilover fork, leave lower ball joint attached and unbolt the two bolts connecting the ball joint to the knuckle.

borgjohnson

Much appreciated! Doesn't seem too complicated.