removing front lower wishbone?
#81
IIRC rear camber is 2.19 and toe is just in. Those tie rods would improve that!
Yep rubbing occured when Chris and I did the same thing @34 mph round the small roundabout.
Yep rubbing occured when Chris and I did the same thing @34 mph round the small roundabout.
#82
Thread Starter
Your rubbing could be because you sound like you are running soft compression. I remember adjusting the suspension to full soft compression, just to see the difference. All the way to back from silverstone on bumpy B roads my front bumper was determined to catch every undulation - the Nitrons have an excellent range of adjustment but with that comes responsibility to make sensible changes.
#84
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mikey k,Apr 22 2007, 09:52 PM
I'm planning the replacement rear toe arms, he suggested moving the rear lower wishbone pic up points as well. Though I'm not keen on that as it involves removing the adjuster plates and extending the slots. I'd say this weakens the sub frame .
SPL ball joint adjuster
kit on ebay
or, if feeling rich and know which camber joint kit you need:
J's Racing camber kits
What I don't understand is the references in some threads regarding camber kits which refer to the adjustable control arms which change toe (like the Megan Racing arms I have) also giving a better range of camber adjustment. I need Chris to explain the limitations as clearly the adjustment was not sufficient to get my rear camber within UK spec.
#85
Camber and toe are linked. I have this problem. As you try to pull the camber in it also acts in the control arm changing the toe. The idea of the adjustable control arm is to break this dependancy and make them both independent.
#86
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mikey k,Apr 24 2007, 08:55 AM
Camber and toe are linked. I have this problem. As you try to pull the camber in it also acts in the control arm changing the toe. The idea of the adjustable control arm is to break this dependancy and make them both independent.
#88
Originally Posted by Paper Lawyer,Apr 24 2007, 09:01 AM
Yes, I appreciate that and that is why I'm just a little puzzled as to why my rear camber can't be pulled back in a little more. TBH, early indications are that the car handles great with its current camber set up.
I'm suprised by that too.
I'm starting to wonder if the camber is too much to usefully use (and it's going to get worse with ARBs), and it's a bit too easy to lock up under braking, but I'll reserve judgement until I've been to a track.
My rear toe is 25 minutes each, and 2.5 degrees of negative camber. I had more toe in after my last DIY effort, which made it more planted than it is now, but I don't think the tyres would have lasted very long.
#89
Thread Starter
Does the control arm break the camber-toe dependency? I don't see how. If anything it gives you more adjustment
I have the same amount of rear camber but I can't recall my toe (other than it was good!). You are right with the ease at which one can lock up the brakes.
#90
Originally Posted by Paper Lawyer,Apr 24 2007, 09:39 AM
Haven't you just contradicted yourself Dave? It does break the dependancy and so does allow more adjustment.
We need a way of making the whole suspension arm adjustable length.
I can't quite work out what those camber joints do.
I had 1 degree and 10 minutes negative camber at the front and 3 minutes of toe out on each at the front, and whatever the minimum caster was. I'm guessing that after you liked mine Chris gave you much the same setup as me?