removing broken subframe bolt
#1
removing broken subframe bolt
Has anyone had this happen on their S; where the front most subframe bolt snap off inside the nut (which is part of a sleeve inside the shell)?
I've tried drilling the bolt, but no luck with that option (as this guy had success with https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/760...way-to-remove/). I've tried cutting out the bottom of the nut; thinking the nut was welded to the bottom face of the shell - it isnt; this sleeve seems to be secured from the top edge of it. I'm now at the thought of cutting the inner wing so i can remove this sleeve and go from there.
Cutting the inner wing is something I don't want todo if there's no benefit to it as this will cause a fair bit of work prepping it back for MOT standard.
Does anyone have advice/thoughts on this?
I've tried drilling the bolt, but no luck with that option (as this guy had success with https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/760...way-to-remove/). I've tried cutting out the bottom of the nut; thinking the nut was welded to the bottom face of the shell - it isnt; this sleeve seems to be secured from the top edge of it. I'm now at the thought of cutting the inner wing so i can remove this sleeve and go from there.
Cutting the inner wing is something I don't want todo if there's no benefit to it as this will cause a fair bit of work prepping it back for MOT standard.
Does anyone have advice/thoughts on this?
#3
That stud idea sounds like it could work.
while i don’t have any pictures of my S (subframe was bolted back up yesterday), a search online shows 2 useful pictures...
1) how the bolt snapped off: http://www.marcuccimotorsports.com/jobs/Zo/bolt1.jpg
2) Ignoring the rusty nut on this picture (it's from an EK9 civic), the gray sleeve behind the nut is the bit I cannot figure out what keeps it secure. The bottom face just sits against the bottom face of the car shell and seems to be secured on the top edge. I *suspect* it's how this picture shows: http://honda-tech.com/picture.php?al...ictureid=76911. Problem is, without excessive cutting i'm only guessing at how it's held in-place.
while i don’t have any pictures of my S (subframe was bolted back up yesterday), a search online shows 2 useful pictures...
1) how the bolt snapped off: http://www.marcuccimotorsports.com/jobs/Zo/bolt1.jpg
2) Ignoring the rusty nut on this picture (it's from an EK9 civic), the gray sleeve behind the nut is the bit I cannot figure out what keeps it secure. The bottom face just sits against the bottom face of the car shell and seems to be secured on the top edge. I *suspect* it's how this picture shows: http://honda-tech.com/picture.php?al...ictureid=76911. Problem is, without excessive cutting i'm only guessing at how it's held in-place.
#4
looks like a frame type fabrication with tube included,then spot welded to chassis.
Welding a stud will also have movement for adjustments easiest option.<perhaps only one too>!!
worth trying as nothing to loose
have faith
Welding a stud will also have movement for adjustments easiest option.<perhaps only one too>!!
worth trying as nothing to loose
have faith
#6
Noodels - your English is frequently appalling. Please, for the love of god, try to write with a little more structure and clarity.
Just cutting around the stud could well be the only option if welding a bolt onto the stud fails. It's not the most appealing of jobs, but you may save time faffing when compared with other methods.
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Just cutting around the stud could well be the only option if welding a bolt onto the stud fails. It's not the most appealing of jobs, but you may save time faffing when compared with other methods.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
#7
yep!!
how i should have wrote it ^^thanks for correcting my post.
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#8
We just had this on mine when fitting Spoon collars. The bolts were corroded and stripped the thread on the captive nut. I only had a quick look but Andy had to cut into the inner wing to fix it. Not really an issue on mine an he's done a neat job in welding and tidying it up but not something I'd want to do of it was my road car.
Easy-out not an option?
Daytona Dave is probably your man here.
Noodels, as Loftust said please can you take a bit more time when posting. Thanks.
Easy-out not an option?
Daytona Dave is probably your man here.
Noodels, as Loftust said please can you take a bit more time when posting. Thanks.
#9
Easyout/similar not an option; the length of the bolt (about 4" remaining inside the car; from the end of the bolt to the marker half way down the bolt... http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/u...psoppuih74.jpg) says it wont come out anti-clockwise.
What i have tried upto now, is drill&thread up the middle of the broken bolt, and then try a 12.9 bolt to turn it clockwise in the hope the bolt would of dropped out the other side of the nut. No go, the 12.9 sheared and theres no chance of me drilling that out! The 10 grade of the original bolt was hard enough.
Going back to the welded stud idea; http://www.marcuccimotorsports.com/jobs/Zo/bolt1.jpg. get an m14 threaded bar (m14 is the size of the bolt), weld it into the hole and job done. That would save me cutting the car body atleast.
What i have tried upto now, is drill&thread up the middle of the broken bolt, and then try a 12.9 bolt to turn it clockwise in the hope the bolt would of dropped out the other side of the nut. No go, the 12.9 sheared and theres no chance of me drilling that out! The 10 grade of the original bolt was hard enough.
Going back to the welded stud idea; http://www.marcuccimotorsports.com/jobs/Zo/bolt1.jpg. get an m14 threaded bar (m14 is the size of the bolt), weld it into the hole and job done. That would save me cutting the car body atleast.
#10
A ground down nut <to a round> placed in the hole, weld that to a large thick penny washer,<ground down so fits hole>,then weld nut/washer assembly to chassis runner.
Then can use a cut down measured depth bolt.<can use oem bolt then>
a photo would helpful of your exact problem.
quote:
Noodels, as Loftust said please can you take a bit more time when posting. Thanks
Sorry i have brain damage and will try harder
Then can use a cut down measured depth bolt.<can use oem bolt then>
a photo would helpful of your exact problem.
quote:
Noodels, as Loftust said please can you take a bit more time when posting. Thanks
Sorry i have brain damage and will try harder