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Rear suspension suspension bolts

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Old 02-25-2015, 05:30 AM
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Default Rear suspension suspension bolts

Bear with me - I've read all the threads but I still have a few questions

My rear adjusters are seized so I'm looking to replace them

My question is, what are my chances of getting the bolts / adjusters out without knackering the bushes on the lower wishbones or toe arms?

Part of me says it is just the nut seized on the bolt thread...the rest. of me says the bolt is seized in the bush sleeve....


Also, not being that mechanically minded ( zero engineering skills!) , if the new bolts are greased (as a lot of people do) what stopes them rotating and "unadjusting" every time the wishbone moves....
Old 02-25-2015, 06:37 AM
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The bolt passes through the arm Bush (within which it is free to turn), but tightening the nut clamps the bolt head and the nut face to the sides of the bush's metal centre so the bolt can't move. You need to loosen the nut, then if the bolt doesn't rotate, it's seized inside the bush's metal inner sleeve. You'll need to soak it in plusgas or similar, and use and impact driver to try and loosen. If you just keep twisting it, you will tear the rubber and require a new bush.
Old 02-25-2015, 06:41 AM
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Both my toe arms were seized, the front bolt on the rear lower should be OK as it's not sleeved in the same way and I was able to get a good swing with a drift and a hammer to the rear lower bolts - so while it meant the bolt deformed there was no cutting needed which saves some hours.
Old 02-25-2015, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by GreenmanS2000
My question is, what are my chances of getting the bolts / adjusters out without knackering the bushes on the lower wishbones or toe arms?

Part of me says it is just the nut seized on the bolt thread...the rest. of me says the bolt is seized in the bush sleeve....
If the bolts are seized in the bushes the only way to remove them is to cut them off the car with a reciprocating saw or angle grinder.

Old 02-25-2015, 07:01 AM
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Argh - so basically I won't know until I cut the nut off whether the bolt is seized in the bush or not

Makes me miss the grease nipples on my old Triumph Herald, Spitfire and GT6s.

I don't really want to poly bush (as I dont want the harsher ride) but equally I don't want to splash out on new lower OEM rear wishbones

I'll have to weight up the cost of poly bush and the labour to install them v cost of new wishbones...which should be simpler (cheaper) to install..

Looks like I'll have to save up for later in the year. Oh well at least I've had my holiday this year.
Old 02-25-2015, 07:42 AM
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i was in the same position, all my rear adjusters on both sides were seized solid, tried plus gas - wd40 etc for weeks in between tries to release the bolts, in the end i did all the work my self with zero prior mechanical knowledge, in the end i poly-bushed the lower wishbones with powerflex, and purchased a adjusting toe arm set at £180, the ride is slightly harsher i think but not too bad, i would recommend buying 2x wishbones and debushing them prior to starting the work, and then sell your old wishbones when you are done, i am now infact considering buying a full set of mugen bush's and doing the whole lot excluding the toe arms next winter, but i still have not decided due to cost/time but im pretty sure my front compliance bush's will be needing to be replaced anyway.
Old 02-25-2015, 07:45 AM
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Im in the middle of pollybushing the rear

the bolts will be seized in the bush you can take the nut off no problem but wont be able to get the geo bolt out you will have to cut it out.
Old 02-25-2015, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by GreenmanS2000
Argh - so basically I won't know until I cut the nut off whether the bolt is seized in the bush or not

Makes me miss the grease nipples on my old Triumph Herald, Spitfire and GT6s.

I don't really want to poly bush (as I dont want the harsher ride) but equally I don't want to splash out on new lower OEM rear wishbones

I'll have to weight up the cost of poly bush and the labour to install them v cost of new wishbones...which should be simpler (cheaper) to install..

Looks like I'll have to save up for later in the year. Oh well at least I've had my holiday this year.
Firstly where do you live? if you are close to me I can have a look at them for you! Despite the horror stories the whole job is not difficult if you set about it properly, You will not need to buy new wishbones or control arms.
Mark the position of the cam first then undo the nut and try to turn the bolt! (Use decent weight back and forth) if it turns without distorting the bush, luck is on your side. If not it will have to be cut out. The rears can be cut with a disc, but protect the subframe from overrun. (the fronts will need a recip saw)
Once the arms are off the car remove the bushes by chain drilling the rubber then saw a slit in the outer shell and push it out, or oxy/acet if available.
(Replace with mugen bushes for an oem feel) buy them from si at hendy.
You do not need a press as they can be easily pushed in using a heavy vice.

Lee
Old 02-25-2015, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by LEEF
Originally Posted by GreenmanS2000' timestamp='1424880061' post='23518626
Argh - so basically I won't know until I cut the nut off whether the bolt is seized in the bush or not

Makes me miss the grease nipples on my old Triumph Herald, Spitfire and GT6s.

I don't really want to poly bush (as I dont want the harsher ride) but equally I don't want to splash out on new lower OEM rear wishbones

I'll have to weight up the cost of poly bush and the labour to install them v cost of new wishbones...which should be simpler (cheaper) to install..

Looks like I'll have to save up for later in the year. Oh well at least I've had my holiday this year.
Firstly where do you live? if you are close to me I can have a look at them for you! Despite the horror stories the whole job is not difficult if you set about it properly, You will not need to buy new wishbones or control arms.
Mark the position of the cam first then undo the nut and try to turn the bolt! (Use decent weight back and forth) if it turns without distorting the bush, luck is on your side. If not it will have to be cut out. The rears can be cut with a disc, but protect the subframe from overrun. (the fronts will need a recip saw)
Once the arms are off the car remove the bushes by chain drilling the rubber then saw a slit in the outer shell and push it out, or oxy/acet if available.
(Replace with mugen bushes for an oem feel) buy them from si at hendy.
You do not need a press as they can be easily pushed in using a heavy vice.

Lee
I'm near Aylesbury in bucks

Its not an urgent job but depending on where you are, if you are down this way, there's a beer to two in it if you can have a look. I took it to wheels in motion a few weeks ago to get them greased but they said they were seized. I didn't think to ask if them if it was the nut and bolt seized or the bolt within the bush....it was only when I got home I noticed a dent in the sill.....
Old 02-25-2015, 09:01 AM
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A hole saw kit works well on removing old rubber metalastic bush material,i think 18mm.
amazingly the small amount of heat used with cutting through bolts with reciprocating saw was enough to free inner seized area !!
but was a bit late then
If a mig welder was used and stuck a blob on the end may be enough to free the offending problem usually a rapid cooling with oil helps the whole process. <and sets the car on fire> problem solved..

SO Caution > may burn the bush


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