veehexx

i thought I mentioned it; maybe not - my car is stock suspension/ride height. so i wont be having the exact issues you are, GTcarnut (or unlikely to with a car dropped asmuch as yours)

a wiki page sugests roll steer could have this effect (i was interested if bump steer could be causing my issue); one wheel raises more than the other and the toe settings change, while not 100% clear, it hinted the roll bar prevented this.

anyway, i'll be taking off all the nsr the arms in 5-10mins, and check bushes. rollbar bushes, and links will also be checked...
i'll let you know how i get on..

veehexx

car is back together, and nothing seriously wrong found.

wheel bearing; didnt cure the scraping/squeaking noise, but for £40, it was the cheapest option. i'm starting to think it might be the diff.
brakes; new discs & pads all round, and caliper came off with ease. it doesnt seem to be a dragging pad. scrape/squeaking noise is still present when i brake/use handbrake.
bushes; checked both the tie rod, and upper arm - everything fine. lower arm wasn't touched since i did the bushes on that last summer. roll bar links seemed ok; no major play in the joints.

as for the kicking left-ward over low traction surfaces, i've given the toe adjustment a little tweak. as shown here.
seems to of fixed the kicking now. i'm guessing that equates to around 0.15-0.25deg in real terms.

Nick Graves

By lowering the car (without the correct mods) the suspension is under compression & toes-in the wheels.

So of course, when the car's really under compression, you don't get the stabilizing effect. In fact it starts dialling off toe in in extremis!

That's before you dial in the on-off power 'reversed kinematics' the multilink allows.

So a hellaflush S2000's gonna be hellabad & I'd not even bother with that.

In Veehexx's case, I'd suggest that like mine, the NSR tends to get knocked back by the bumps I can usually feel when it's happened & get an alignment done. It's possible that there's nothing wrong as such, but as the bushes etc age, there is a little more softness there that exacerbates it.

Of course, you cannot just dial in more toe-in without changing the camber either - it's triangulated.

Either way, if it's helped...

richmc

The reason I said this is that with a bit more camber the inside would wear a little more and might reduce the twitch a bit or get rid if it as the tyre would make more contact when pushing over, possibly the reason you are aware of the car kicking left is that drains etc are generally on the left of the road.
All this comes from me having a great VTEC opportunity near to home that was spoilt by a series of drains just where I want to put out the beans. That said after a good geo set up my kick dissapered.
I'm a bit concerned that you say the "noise" still happens when braking/handbrake is applied that says to me brakes or diff, former being the favorite.