Quick rear brake pads questions
#1
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Quick rear brake pads questions
Hi chaps, I need to change the front pads and discs but i was going to do all 4 corners. Now, from my experience of a few years of track driving in french hatches we never put grippy rear pads on because they were too snatchy due to the lack of weight and we ended up shoving the bias forward as a result. I was wondering if decent rear pads are an advantage to the S2k or if OE are better suited? The weight and drag on the rear is obviously far greater than a fwd french bean can, hence my question.
I will be hitting the track but this is and will remain a road car and at 3-5k a year, hardly a daily.
Many thanks
I will be hitting the track but this is and will remain a road car and at 3-5k a year, hardly a daily.
Many thanks
#2
UK Moderator
Rear pads tend to take more of a pounding on track than the fronts (mostly because they are solid rather than vented discs).
So, if you are going for more track orientated pads, then get them fitted to all 4 corners.
In fact, some would say to use a higher spec pad on the rear than on the front but that's most likely overkill.
So, if you are going for more track orientated pads, then get them fitted to all 4 corners.
In fact, some would say to use a higher spec pad on the rear than on the front but that's most likely overkill.
#3
Agree with LG,
Rear discs are not vented so they get very very hot. You need a decent pad to stop any brake fade.
When i done my first trackday i came into the pits and my rear yellow stuff pads were pretty much on fire. They promptly went in the bin and replaced with carbotech XP10's. No problems since apart from pad coming off from the backing plate but then that was after about 7 trackdays and alot of road miles. You need to ensure the rear calipers are in top notch condition as well as they can seize easily.
Rear discs are not vented so they get very very hot. You need a decent pad to stop any brake fade.
When i done my first trackday i came into the pits and my rear yellow stuff pads were pretty much on fire. They promptly went in the bin and replaced with carbotech XP10's. No problems since apart from pad coming off from the backing plate but then that was after about 7 trackdays and alot of road miles. You need to ensure the rear calipers are in top notch condition as well as they can seize easily.
#4
Heat issues aside I've always felt it stops and feels much better to have roughly matching pads all round, and won't dive forwards quite so much which is also a good thing. A lot of people seem to believe that because the fronts do more of the work it's only worth upgrading the fronts.
It's not a french FWD hatchback. 50% of the weight is at the rear.
It's not a french FWD hatchback. 50% of the weight is at the rear.
#5
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Thank you for your input guys. I did however make the decision to chop in most of the car fund to go snowboarding....
I have the budget for Redstuff all round and O.E or Mtec discs. I could also push to 1144's and Mtec discs. I did crack a set of 1144's hauling only 840kg though. Like i said, for now this is mostly road driving and not a lot of it.
I have the budget for Redstuff all round and O.E or Mtec discs. I could also push to 1144's and Mtec discs. I did crack a set of 1144's hauling only 840kg though. Like i said, for now this is mostly road driving and not a lot of it.
#7
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I did that to 1144's Lee! I always was a little hard on the brakes when i was younger but my driving style is much smoother these days. I also havnt seen a track in 6 years.
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#8
for many years I used 1144's on my cars, have been brilliant, never any fade or squeeling despite very hard track use. Having said that I now use ds2500 all round and they are superior to 1144's, please please please do not use red stuff, utter shite. whatever you use, use all round.
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